Is anyone familiar with "Individualized Shirts"?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BDCook, May 20, 2006.

  1. BDCook

    BDCook Active Member

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    Stopped by Paul Simon (local retailer I had heard great things about) for the first time today. After a few minutes of speaking with a sales person I had expressed my desire to find something a bit more fitting than the Thomas Pinks and Ike Behars I've purchased as of late. We ended up looking through the swatch book, and I found a few materials I really liked.

    Price would be about $195 or so plus a $25 cutting fee since I would order under the 4 shirt minimum, as I want to try them out first.

    Does anyone know about the "Individualized Shirts"? The quality, etc..

    From what I've heard about this store (and read on here) I doubt they would carry anything that wasn't of high quality, but figured I would ask you guys first.

    Also, I would assume that these qualify strictly as a made to measure shirt, and not bespoke. Am I correct?
     


  2. coachvu

    coachvu Senior member

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    Yes, these are made to measure, not bespoke. If your only complaint is that your shirts aren't slim-fitting enough, why not buy a brand that is designed to be more slim-fitting. RLPL is one option, and you can certainly find these on sale for a better price. I don't like the idea of having to pay extra for a test shirt. Why not try a Robert Talbott MTM shirt? Better wait, take a trip to New York and pick up some CEGO shirts.
     


  3. BDCook

    BDCook Active Member

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    Better wait, take a trip to New York and pick up some CEGO shirts.

    What are these CEGO shirts? I will be in NYC for an extended business trip (several weeks, atleast).
     


  4. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    What are these CEGO shirts? I will be in NYC for an extended business trip (several weeks, atleast).
    http://cego.citysearch.com/

    Paris custom shirts would be another option: 212-695-3563
     


  5. coachvu

    coachvu Senior member

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    What are these CEGO shirts? I will be in NYC for an extended business trip (several weeks, atleast).

    I've never seen a single negative comment about a CEGO shirt on this forum or at AAAC. Most of their standard shirts run about $85-125, I believe. There are several previous threads about them.
     


  6. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    It'd be pretty awesome to purchase from the same people who made shirts for Nathan Lane and Matthew Broderick...
     


  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I guess I should jump in for a moment.
    Inidividualized has several levels of shirt. The least expensive use 40/1 cotton fabric out of asia. The most expensive use 2/200 from Italy. They do have a nice fabric line. Needle work also varies depending on which level of shirt has been ordered.
    I hope for $195 you are getting European fabric. They use a mill from portugal for a lot of their fabric. I use that mill a little bit as well. The quality is good.

    The key to getting a shirt you are happy with is in the measuring. Who is measuring you? The owner of the shop or the new salesmen who has been there for 2 months. It is about asking the right questions.

    My prices are up from the website which has not been touched in several years. I guess one day I should update it the thing. They are $90-195 for instock fabrics. Fabrics from the swatch books jumps to $225-$350.

    (who wants to trade shirts for web design?)
    (Also while I am at it, I am getting a new computer. who wants to transfer all the data for me as a trade? You have to live areound NYC for this one.)

    By the way, If I was the owner of that shop, and if you seemed like a potential long term customer, I would waive the single shirt cutting fee.

    By the way, I made the shirts for the Producers movie as well, don't bother. Save your money for the broadway version. It is great even with out Matthew and Nathen.
    I made shirts for the Drowsey Chaperone. I usually hate musicals, but this was fantastic!
    Carl


    www.cego.com
     


  8. coachvu

    coachvu Senior member

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    Carl,

    Would you be willing to give us a price break-down, maybe just the average price for different classes of material?
     


  9. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sure

    50/1 broadcloth $90-120
    80/2 pinpoint/twill weaves/royal oxford $100-$140
    100/2 Broadcloth/white on white/jacquards, etc $110-$150
    These are mostly fabrics from Japan. Good quality decent finish. Will hold up well against your worst laundry service.

    I have a load of nice fabrics from,Spain, Portugal, Italy,Turkey, and India.
    these are in 50/,80/2, 100/2 these range in price from $135-$175.

    120/2 from Italy for fabrics in stock are $195. These are from Ferno.
    Selection is limited.

    I of course have many swatchbooks as well. Thomas mason, D J anderson, Monti, Testa, Brembana,etc. I avoid the Loro piana fabric. I find it very overpriced.

    Shirts come with a good plastic button.
    Trocha buttons area available for $5.00

    The thick buttons which need to be attached by hand are $25.00.

    These shirts are made for me in NJ. Patterns are generated by computer and cut by hand. I can manipulate the cutting tickets to get a really excellent fit.
    Slim fitting shirts with a high arm hole are not a pproblem.

    There are some things that this workroom can not do. Stripes may not match yoke to sleeve and sleeve placket. Fronts are lined up very nicely.

    I also offer a full "bespoke" shirt. I have my own sewers who create patterns and cut. In this case I offer pretty much anything you can think of. Prices are $25 more then listed on the fabrics in stock. If you can think of it, I can make it. Odd shirts of late have included, Western shirts with flowers embroidered on the back, Guayabera's, Shirt dresses for women, Pirate shirts for an off Broadway show, Removable collar shirts for the Drowsey Chaperone, Priest shirts for the ill fated TV show, "book of Daniel", etc.

    Paterns will match and a regular Pearl button is included.

    Please feel free to contact me with any questions.

    Carl


    www.cego.com
     


  10. dennisdomino

    dennisdomino Well-Known Member

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    Carl,
    I love the Broadway connection. It sounds like you get to meet some fun and creative folks. I have wanted to be a bit more creative with some of my shirts, different fabrics in the collar and cuff lining, diffent color buttons and different color stiching around the button holes etc. It sounds like you have done quite a bit of this, yes? Do you have examples on-sight of different things you've done? Glad you told me about the website not being updated, when I looked at it I was worried that you won't have what I was looking for, but from the sounds of it, you do.
    Thanks.
     


  11. raley

    raley Senior member

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    Wait, it seems like you are saying that you can pay 25$ more for bespoke, and you get MOP buttons and pattern matching, while MOP buttons regularly are an extra 25$. Am I missing something here?
     


  12. gza

    gza Senior member

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    If you can think of it, I can make it. Odd shirts of late have included, Western shirts with flowers embroidered on the back, Guayabera's, Shirt dresses for women, Pirate shirts for an off Broadway show, Removable collar shirts for the Drowsey Chaperone, Priest shirts for the ill fated TV show, "book of Daniel", etc.

    This suggests some interesting possibilities for a bespoke Halloween...

    But seriously, I think I'm going to have to work CEGO into my next trip to New York.
     


  13. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The thick buttons are $25. They are about 4 times the price as the ones I usually use. They also need to be sewn on by hand.


    I guess I should start charging more for matching a couple of stripes.

    Dennis, Any of those details are possible. I recently sewed sleeve placket buttonholes in lavender. for a customer.
    Most of those details are not difficult, they just take more attention.

    Carl
     


  14. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    I come across I.S. quite a bit at thrift stores. Quality seems decent - about the same quality as Talbott I'd say.

    Buttons aren't too special from what I've seen - standard thicker shell - but the fabrics can be quite nice and there seems to be a nice selection.

    The collars and cuffs were also pretty good.
     


  15. dennisdomino

    dennisdomino Well-Known Member

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    Dennis, Any of those details are possible. I recently sewed sleeve placket buttonholes in lavender. for a customer.
    Most of those details are not difficult, they just take more attention.


    Thank you Carl, I will come and see you soon.
    DD
     


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