Is a natural shoulder on a business suit inappropriate?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eHaberdasher, Oct 2, 2012.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have clean-set spalla on a lot of jackets and nobody says anything. The more going on with the sleeveheads of my jackets the more comments I get on them.
     


  2. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    ok I quickly paged through the September 2012 GQ and shot some suits with natural shoulders - of course because it's autumn most are heavier fabrics which does make a difference in that a finer fabric may be a little less forgiving with a natural shoulder. NOW what do you guys think?
    1. Polo RL 2. Polo RL 3. Zegna 4. Canali

    [​IMG]
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  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    The shoulders, except for the last, very roped set aren't what stand out in those photos.
     


  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Only those good looking models stands out, not the products they are wearing.
     


  5. EndlessBreak

    EndlessBreak Member

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    In my opinion, none of these shoulder treatments would be considered inappropriate in even the most conservative setting. As others have mentioned, its certain sleevehead treatments..such as a spalla camicia with puckering in the sleeve fabric that would garner more attention and could possibly be considered less than conservative.

    I think it would be great if you put out some suits or jackets with minimal or no shoulder padding. Please, though, don't have narrow lapels like the first three pics. Pic #4 from Canali looks much more balanced. Oh, and try a 3-roll-2 configuration.
     


  6. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

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    All my suits have soft shoulders:

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    People notice something is different (in a positive way) but they don't know what it is.
     


  7. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    It's a natural shoulder! Duh.
     


  8. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

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    Most business people do not know what soft shoulder, natural shoulder or paded shoulder is. They will only notice a cheap looking or out of the ordinary coloured suit.

    My preference is for roped shoulders. I never liked pads and find that a heavily padded jacket on slopped shoulders accentuates the bad figure.
     


  9. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think what you are seeing as inappropriate in those photos you posted isn't really rhe hsoulder treatment per se, but the fact that the people wearing them a litterally poured into the shoulders and chest. The lapels are bowing, no room in the chest. It gives it a very fashiony look. Natural shoulders on a traditionally cut business suit is fine. I mean look at what Brooks Brothers and J. Press have been doing for decades.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012


  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Has anyone mentioned yet that no one cares and that it's absolutely appropriate? Yes, I think it's been mentioned.

    Also, "business suit"? Redundant, no?
     


  11. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

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    Lounge suit
     


  12. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    You both realize that you can have roped or non roped shoulders on both padded and unpadded shoulders right?
     


  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    You realized there will be pads for natural rope shoulder, let alone the firm shoulder?
    Anyway, the idea of 'natural' and 'firm' shoulder is subjective.
     


  15. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    Wrong. There are unpadded shoulders with roping.

    http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

    One of the few good posts on that site. Most others are mehh though.

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    That pic is taken from that site. Both are unpadded one has roping the other doesn't
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012


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