1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Is a natural shoulder on a business suit inappropriate?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eHaberdasher, Oct 2, 2012.

  1. johanm

    johanm Senior member

    Messages:
    670
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2010
    It's really absurd to think that anyone notices the shoulders on your suit. People will notice if your suit looks cheap or has tacky/loud fabric or or fits poorly, but real life people don't register shoulder construction unless they post on internet clothes forums or are themselves customers of a bespoke tailor who has a distinctive approach to shoulders. This is true in any business setting, in any industry, in any city of the world.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Most people don't notice actual shoulder construction, but I think people notice a more relaxed look to a suit vs. a more structured one even if they can't identify the actual construction details that create t hat impression.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. johanm

    johanm Senior member

    Messages:
    670
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2010
    

    I have never been in a business setting where it is conceivable that anyone important is thinking about whether anyone else's suit gives a relaxed vs. structured impression. YMMV I guess.
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    Not all things that are noticed are noticed through conscious thought.
     
    2 people like this.
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    People do notice 'soft' vs 'roped' shoulder, it is so obvious that tailors need different construction for each.
    Soft shoulder suit needs very good body shape, I am afraid most people who could afford these kind of stuff will be slightly obese, mid- age, man.
    Rope shoulder suit generally makes better appearance on people.
     
  6. jt10000

    jt10000 Senior member

    Messages:
    230
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2012
    Very good point.
     
  7. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

    Messages:
    3,058
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Location:
    Dallas
    I revise my statement about no one will notice. No one will note that the shoulders are how they are, however, it entirely changes the look of the jacket. The roped shoulder gives a very aggressive, bold look, while the natural shoulder with an unroped shoulder will look more weenie.
     
  8. hookem12387

    hookem12387 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,113
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2010
    Location:
    Houston
    I vote classically American. So not frowned upon at all here. Perhaps elsewhere.

    The current Hickey Freeman shoulders are very soft, and I don't think they would be inappropriate:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2012
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,874
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    Soft to whom?
    Soft is not natural.
    Unless this is a new cut, nothing in the
    SanFrancisco Hickey Shop has a true
    natural shoulder.
     
  10. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    those Hickey suit ain't total soft, we are talking about wearing a Kel jacket for boardroom
     
  11. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,327
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I have clean-set spalla on a lot of jackets and nobody says anything. The more going on with the sleeveheads of my jackets the more comments I get on them.
     
  12. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    2,192
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    ok I quickly paged through the September 2012 GQ and shot some suits with natural shoulders - of course because it's autumn most are heavier fabrics which does make a difference in that a finer fabric may be a little less forgiving with a natural shoulder. NOW what do you guys think?
    1. Polo RL 2. Polo RL 3. Zegna 4. Canali

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    The shoulders, except for the last, very roped set aren't what stand out in those photos.
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    Only those good looking models stands out, not the products they are wearing.
     
  15. EndlessBreak

    EndlessBreak Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2010
    In my opinion, none of these shoulder treatments would be considered inappropriate in even the most conservative setting. As others have mentioned, its certain sleevehead treatments..such as a spalla camicia with puckering in the sleeve fabric that would garner more attention and could possibly be considered less than conservative.

    I think it would be great if you put out some suits or jackets with minimal or no shoulder padding. Please, though, don't have narrow lapels like the first three pics. Pic #4 from Canali looks much more balanced. Oh, and try a 3-roll-2 configuration.
     
  16. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Senior member

    Messages:
    1,250
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    All my suits have soft shoulders:

    [​IMG]

    People notice something is different (in a positive way) but they don't know what it is.
     
  17. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,874
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    It's a natural shoulder! Duh.
     
  18. GGsquared

    GGsquared Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    83
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2012
    Most business people do not know what soft shoulder, natural shoulder or paded shoulder is. They will only notice a cheap looking or out of the ordinary coloured suit.

    My preference is for roped shoulders. I never liked pads and find that a heavily padded jacket on slopped shoulders accentuates the bad figure.
     
  19. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    33,327
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    I think what you are seeing as inappropriate in those photos you posted isn't really rhe hsoulder treatment per se, but the fact that the people wearing them a litterally poured into the shoulders and chest. The lapels are bowing, no room in the chest. It gives it a very fashiony look. Natural shoulders on a traditionally cut business suit is fine. I mean look at what Brooks Brothers and J. Press have been doing for decades.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  20. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    36,649
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2005
    Location:
    New York
    Has anyone mentioned yet that no one cares and that it's absolutely appropriate? Yes, I think it's been mentioned.

    Also, "business suit"? Redundant, no?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by