Is a Dark gray suit Boring?

[thedavidstarr]

I teach at a design school, and the predominant look is black. However that gets really boring, and doesn't even often look good, especially given how there are actually many "blacks" which don't always or often work together. So I've been going back to charcoal and dark grey, which I wore more often in the 80s and 90s. Grey/charcoal is a wonderful foil for white or more colorful shirts (think "English" styles) and neckties, without being so stark a contrast as black, cream or white (I never wear white, except as a shirt). And my favorite ties are all from the late 80s or 90s, because of not just the patterns but also the cut and the weighting.

Navy is also a difficult color, though I've found it always best done as something nearer to black (think "midnight" blue or Naval uniforms), or a brighter dark blue with black threads woven in to "steady" it. That said, there have always been far more ugly blues available than really nice ones.

But back to charcoal. If one looks around, there are many wonderful fabrics which have either a texture, like a twill, or have a subtle weave to them using a contrasting yarn which gives a heathered sort of look. Flannels are wonderful. Or tone-on-tone weaves, like a herringbone or birdseye; or an overall dark POW plaid pattern which from a distance looks almost like a solid. Blued dark greys also provide a wonderfully dark but warm option, as they usually have a bit of red in them.

Agree completely. Shades textures patterns depth: gray isn’t GRAY at all

 

[SchneiderKunstler]

IMHO, and as a bespoke tailor/couturier, some of the most "iconic" fabric companies are the most boring, so one has to really look to find interesting fabrics. That said, as I mentioned in my initial post, think of the suit as the "foil" or the backdrop for all else. From that angle, the suit you have pictured is not so terrible at all. It has nice shape and construction, not too much roping around the sleeve cap, and the vest with lapels adds a nice touch. The fabric looks great without drawing undue attention to itself, as a sharkskin might. A herringbone would look very nice.

I realize the shirt & tie/knot combination is very present moment, however I personally would either put a different knot under the collar, or go to a somewhat narrower spread rather than the almost cutaway collar shown. An "English" look, with a striped/patterned shirt and solid collar and cuffs works very nicely with charcoal, if you can get away with it.

The tie, itself, can be less "standard", too -- a little more color, or a non-traditional version of a repp stripe, or even a discrete large floral pattern, though the latter might not be OK in your work environment. Also, look for lighter weight silk ties, and more "bottle"-shaped, which are also usually more lightly weighted and can give you different tying options. That blue is rather something you see everywhere. Use your accessory options to make the personal statement, but without looking the peacock -- unless of course you want to.

My comments re: tone-on-tone fabrics are in the same vein. I once had someone, from 100 feet away, notice me in a black-with-chocolate brown windowpane suit with peak lapels, come up and ask me if I'd made it, which I had, but the fabric is otherwise from that distance not at all an over-the-top look.

 

[FVogt]

Thank

IMHO, and as a bespoke tailor/couturier, some of the most "iconic" fabric companies are the most boring, so one has to really look to find interesting fabrics. That said, as I mentioned in my initial post, think of the suit as the "foil" or the backdrop for all else. From that angle, the suit you have pictured is not so terrible at all. It has nice shape and construction, not too much roping around the sleeve cap, and the vest with lapels adds a nice touch. The fabric looks great without drawing undue attention to itself, as a sharkskin might. A herringbone would look very nice.

I realize the shirt & tie/knot combination is very present moment, however I personally would either put a different knot under the collar, or go to a somewhat narrower spread rather than the almost cutaway collar shown. An "English" look, with a striped/patterned shirt and solid collar and cuffs works very nicely with charcoal, if you can get away with it.

The tie, itself, can be less "standard", too -- a little more color, or a non-traditional version of a repp stripe, or even a discrete large floral pattern, though the latter might not be OK in your work environment. Also, look for lighter weight silk ties, and more "bottle"-shaped, which are also usually more lightly weighted and can give you different tying options. That blue is rather something you see everywhere. Use your accessory options to make the personal statement, but without looking the peacock -- unless of course you want to.

My comments re: tone-on-tone fabrics are in the same vein. I once had someone, from 100 feet away, notice me in a black-with-chocolate brown windowpane suit with peak lapels, come up and ask me if I'd made it, which I had, but the fabric is otherwise from that distance not at all an over-the-top look.

Thank you very much for your reply. It is very interesting what you have to say about the fabric, but also what you said in your previous post regarding the suit and colour.
Regarding the suit in the picture, when I wear it (in my opinion) the suit doesn't look so nice. For me at least it looks too boxy, and maybe it's also a bit too short (a few cm around 1 max 2) And I'm just looking at what I could do.
Kind regards

 

[SchneiderKunstler]

LOL, on a mannequin the suit looks usual, however if you're a younger guy with a large "drop" then it's quite probable the suit looks a bit boxy. The cut is also more "English" with a flare over the hips. As for length, first of all determine that the waist is in the right place on you. It could be a little high if you're taller, because the jacket itself looks fairly normal. Then you can think further about the overall length.
All that said, jackets these days have been cut shorter for quite a while, i.e., quite a bit above the bottom of the buttocks, that being the more traditional length for a jacket. To my eye, the current style looks too short and like the jacket is too small -- which it usually is, too. And when they're so short, usually the button stance moves up, too, making the whole thing look too small. Compounding the problem is pants waists, which are cut substantially below the real waist, making a triangular gap between the pant waistband and the first jacket button, or, worse yet, showing shirt under a vest.

 

[thedavidstarr]

LOL, on a mannequin the suit looks usual, however if you're a younger guy with a large "drop" then it's quite probable the suit looks a bit boxy. The cut is also more "English" with a flare over the hips. As for length, first of all determine that the waist is in the right place on you. It could be a little high if you're taller, because the jacket itself looks fairly normal. Then you can think further about the overall length.
All that said, jackets these days have been cut shorter for quite a while, i.e., quite a bit above the bottom of the buttocks, that being the more traditional length for a jacket. To my eye, the current style looks too short and like the jacket is too small -- which it usually is, too. And when they're so short, usually the button stance moves up, too, making the whole thing look too small. Compounding the problem is pants waists, which are cut substantially below the real waist, making a triangular gap between the pant waistband and the first jacket button, or, worse yet, showing shirt under a vest.

Moral of the story: FIT matters first last always. If that’s not right it doesn’t matter how beautiful the fabric pattern etc

 

[SchneiderKunstler]

Moral of the story: FIT matters first last always. If that’s not right it doesn’t matter how beautiful the fabric pattern etc

As does construction... why use $200+/m fabric to make a "manufactured" garment that's been altered to fit or a "custom" jacket, pant or suit, when the only real difference, other than fabric, between the two is essentially nil.

 

[FVogt]

LOL, on a mannequin the suit looks usual, however if you're a younger guy with a large "drop" then it's quite probable the suit looks a bit boxy. The cut is also more "English" with a flare over the hips. As for length, first of all determine that the waist is in the right place on you. It could be a little high if you're taller, because the jacket itself looks fairly normal. Then you can think further about the overall length.
All that said, jackets these days have been cut shorter for quite a while, i.e., quite a bit above the bottom of the buttocks, that being the more traditional length for a jacket. To my eye, the current style looks too short and like the jacket is too small -- which it usually is, too. And when they're so short, usually the button stance moves up, too, making the whole thing look too small. Compounding the problem is pants waists, which are cut substantially below the real waist, making a triangular gap between the pant waistband and the first jacket button, or, worse yet, showing shirt under a vest.

I have to agree with you, it's very interesting what you have to say about today's suits.
The suit I have at least has high waisted trousers (they have their own share of problems, but that's a topic for another post). What you say about the jacket is interesting, because my problem is that I'm pretty slim, but am a little taller than most who are actually built than me (at least I think) And maybe that could be a reason the jacket doesn't fit well. Or maybe if it was sized to my height it wouldn't look too short, because now it looks like a boxer jacket, and that might be why it's too short. Could that be a reason? If you want, I can send you some pictures, but I don't want to bother you.
(it is very interesting that we have now arrived at this point, because this suit was one of the reasons why I started this post)

 

[SchneiderKunstler]

Sure, send me a photo or two, though one can tell a lot simply by how the jacket "feels", i.e., whether the waist is where yours is, because the overall relative proportions of a manufactured suit don't change much. Or maybe you're long-waisted? I'm happy to take a look, though might not reply immediately.

 

[FVogt]

Sure, send me a photo or two, though one can tell a lot simply by how the jacket "feels", i.e., whether the waist is where yours is, because the overall relative proportions of a manufactured suit don't change much. Or maybe you're long-waisted? I'm happy to take a look, though might not reply immediately.

Thank you very much. I hope it's ok for you if I send you the pictures directly. Because I want to keep this post on the subject of colour.

 

[carloapellido]

I know I said before that I find grey suits more boring compared to blue ones. But I’d like to share with you the suit I am currently having made.

 

[FVogt]

I know I said before that I find grey suits more boring compared to blue ones. But I’d like to share with you the suit I am currently having made. View attachment 2249169

Beautiful

 

[abbe_faria]

Some shirt and tie ideas for both. View attachment 2243995 View attachment 2243997 View attachment 2244001 View attachment 2244003 View attachment 2244005 View attachment 2244007

Your combinations make your point well. Where do you get the dress shirts in your post? They look well made.

 

[KlarkKent]

I get them made by these guys based in Thailand for $65 a shirt. They come to NYC once a year. Coming next month!

Heritage House Men's Custom Tailor

Heritage House Custom Tailor

hhcustomtailor.com

 

[abbe_faria]

I get them made by these guys based in Thailand for $65 a shirt. They come to NYC once a year. Coming next month!

Heritage House Men's Custom Tailor

Heritage House Custom Tailor

hhcustomtailor.com

Thank you!

 

[FVogt]

Dear community

I hope it's appropriate for me to ask you this, but I have a few questions about charcoal or dark grey suits, are they boring, is a navy blue or a light grey suit more stylish, elegant, formal compared to a dark grey one.

I recently found an article by Mr Alexander Kraft, a man who I must say dresses very well and has a style that I like. He wrote that dark grey suits are not stylish, they are too boring for him. Would you agree and say that a navy blue or light grey suit is more stylish, less boring and maybe even more formal?

His quote:
View attachment 2238281


Source: Alexander Kraft's 9 rules for living elegantly | The Gentleman's Journal | Gentleman's Journal (thegentlemansjournal.com)

In terms of formality, some people think that a navy blue suit is a bit more formal than a charcoal grey suit. Would you agree with that, or would you say that it might be a bit more informal, but you can still wear it for the same occasions as a navy blue suit (business, dinner, parties, etc.)?

When I look at old photos or illustrations from the 30s and 40s, I rarely see charcoal grey suits, mostly they are light grey or navy blue patterned. Would you say it's just the illustrations, or were stylish men back then more likely to wear navy blue suits and not charcoal grey? What I'm saying is, is a charcoal grey suit a recent trend or is it truly timeless?

That's the grey colour I have in mind. I know a patterned grey suit is obviously not boring, but I'm specifically asking about a plain dark grey like this.

View attachment 2238283
View attachment 2238287


Kind regards

If I could ask you something else: Would you say that a dark grey (anthracite) suit can be just as elegant and dapper as a navy blue one? Or would you say that a navy blue suit is more elegant and dapper?