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Introduction, used suit, tailoring

Justin08

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Okay I am new here so I will use this as an introduction thread and my first question of many! My name is Justin, I have always been interested in fashion but not necessarily very knowledgeable about the subject. Right now I own two suits from Tom James but they are of a more traditional fit and I am looking for something slim. I am thinking of getting one or both of them altered to a more slimming fit but I am not even sure if that is possible. I would assume if it was originally cut as a traditional fit it can only be altered so much and may not be able to give me the look I desire. I am told that I am a 36 short (two or three different salespeople measured me). I stopped into a Mens Wearhouse to get a pair of braces. While there I met a salesman that I really seemed to like because he wasn't pushy so I asked him a few questions and looked around. Now I have lurked enough to know that this store is not recommended but I did see a Joseph Abboud suit that I really seemed to like, 599 and get one for 100 type deal. I have told myself that I will never buy a suit from one of these JOB or Mens Wearhouse places but I was tempted. I know they just carry the lower end brands of actual good brands but I was still tempted. I still cant really tell the difference or the why behind a fused vs canvas suit, I started to read the article on here but haven't finished. I have also been looking feverishly at indochino.com and knot standard.com, cant find much about knot standard though (nothing good anyway) and haven't made it all the way through the 150 page post about indochino. I have also been entertaining buying off EBay used. With this though I worry that again even if I get a 36 Short I will not necessarily ever get the slim fit that I desire out of it. Am I correct in this thinking or can I pretty much have anything I buy tailored to the way that I like? I know some brands are cut slimmer than others but can I still get most suits tailored slim? Sorry for the Lengthy post! Thanks in advance for any advice or feedback.
 

Justin08

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Hopefully I posted this in the right area, I have gotten a few views but no reply. If I need to re-post in another area I can. On another note I have been thinking of ordering from Thick as Thieves, I like what I see on their website and it seems like they tailor to the slim!
 

MyOtherLife

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Welcome to Styleforum Justin.
If you would be so kind, please post photos of you in each of the suits. You may crop off your face if that is a concern to you. This way we can advise as to whether or not alterations should be pursued on your existing suits.
To determine if a suit is fused or not you can do the pinch test.
Think of fusing as a very fine mesh-like fabric, almost like womens panty hose material but much stiffer.
One side of the fusing has an adhesive. Fusing comes in bolts the same as fabrics.
Fusing is adhered to fabric to give the fabric more structure. Canvassing lays loose under a fabric and is not glued.
Go to your suit jacket and where the chest is, pinch it. Roll the fabric between your fingers.
If it is stiff it is an indicator of fusing. If on the other hand you feel layer seperation then it is canvassed.
Better quality jackets and suits will be of canvassed construction.
Fused jackets are not desired among afficianados for many reasons; one being the construction is not as good and also offers less durability.
Fused suits lack the drape of its canvassed counterparts.
Fused suits can sometimes be as stiff as armour and may not feel comfortable. Not all, but some.
A jacket of fused construction (arguably) will not wear as well or for as long. Fused jackets are also prone to deterioration via possible failure of the adhesive. Example: exposing the suit to rain. Water can cause seperation of the fusing from the outer shell and when it happens it won't be pretty to say the least. Because the fusing adhesive gives way randomly it can cause a bubbling effect or warping effect of the outer shell fabric.
When making an investment such as a suit or sport coat, it would be prudent to ensure that you seek the best construction and materials. This will, in turn offer many years of enjoyment over something of inferior construction and a loss of usability.

Lets start with some front side, and rear photos of you in your suits.
From there others will ring in with assistance.
Secondly, pending that assesment, state your budget (if applicable) and the intended use for the new suits you would like to purchase.
We are standing by....
 
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jpcdmd

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Try SuitSupply.com

The Washington fit is definitely slimmer, you may want to size up to a 38S if you buy. They are reasonably priced and constructed well for a lower-priced suit. Free return shipping if not satisfied....you cant beat that!
 

Justin08

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Thanks so much for the response. Sure I will get some pics up here for review. I do not think I will have time until Saturday because because I probably have two 12hr days in front of me (not complaining!) My budget I would say is $300-$500. I am an account/marketing executive for a mortgage company and spend lots of time with real estate agents and clients and like to wear a suit every day. I was really liking the sounds of Thick as Thieves until I read on their site that they do not usually sew in brace buttons or recommend them because of the cut of their suits. I like to wear braces, I am actually going to have a tailor remove my belt loops on my current two suits. I want a slim suit and was thinking black or tan maybe? I am not really familiar yet with all the etiquette on colors etc and I wore a belt with my braces the first time, lol. I do not wear a tie either. Do Indochino or Thick as Thieves tailor full or half canvas suits or are they fused? Hopefully before I get the pics uploaded everyone can help me decide on a fabric/color and style! Thanks again for the help!
 

Justin08

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Okay so I didn't have have the time to get any pictures taken but I did take a few minutes to examine the suit jacket. If I grab the front fabric and the inside lining and sort of "pinch" both and pull apart I can feel that there is a floating layer in the middle not attached or I guess fused to either the front fabric or the back. It seems like it is of thicker or stiffer construction than either the outer layer or the inner lining. I would assume this means that they are at least partially canvased?? These are Tom James suits, I cannot remember what line tho.
Also I just started thinking...the pants are pleated which is something I would like to move away from so I do not know if there is a whole lot of point in trying to spend too much money having these two suits altered. I guess I could still have the jackets slimmed up a bit but not sure how that would look with pleated pants.
Any thoughts on what I was saying about the folks at Thick as Thieves not recommending brace buttons on their suits?
 

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