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Captain O

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Hello everyone,
Nice to meet you all.
I'm Matteo, 21 yrs old from Asia.
I m watch enthusiast and perfume lover. My all time favourite style is button down oxford shirt, chino pants and brogue shoes. Now I m starting to make shoe collection. I think I might start with Allen Edmonds.

Stay classy, my friend!
 

Vinsep

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The primary questions I would pose are:

a) Your age.

b) Profession.

c) Your "desired look". (How do you want to be seen/perceived/viewed)?

Your first impression is (generally) how the world will tend to see you. If you pull a "downtrodden" (Bernie Sanders) look, you'll tend to be seen from a 'Socialist" perspective. The "underdog" look. If you dress well and wear dress shirts, sports jackets and blazers with slacks, you'll be taken as a professional with knowledge and insight. If you dress as a "skater" you'll be seen as "youthfully rebellious". (If you dress that way at 30 years of age, you'll be seen as emotionally underdeveloped and socially inept as well as poorly educated).

It all depends on a large number of variable circumstances.

First of all, thanks for your enlightenment(and sinyo18). I’m the kind of person who does not know how to talk about myself.

I’m 27 years old now and working in financial industry. However, I do not have to wear suit everyday. Since it’s more of a middle office job, the requirement is business casual. However, I have worn casual clothing, and seen people dressing casually all the time. Recently I try to dress better because I got married and think it’s a good time to depart from my college look. Plus, more formal style do look to me now.

I am the first of my family who actually have a college degree, a white collar job, and a first generation immigrant(came when I was 17). Therefore, I did not have examples I could learn from like many of you guys. I’m pretty ignorant before on men’s style.

I love to learn, to read. I have too many interests that it actually prevents from focusing on one subject and developing expertise on specific area. So far my attitude is that since they are my entertainment, it’s better than watch tv anyways.

Males fashion is my new interest. I started from r/malefashionadvice and r/goodyearwelt. Oh man, SF is hard to avoid. No matter what questions I googled, some of them have to lead me here.

I have learned some basics, such as differences between goodyear, Blake, Blake/rapid, stitch down, shoe brands, fused, fully/half canvassed suits. Yet, there is much to be learn. The next stage, I would like to know more about different tanneries and mills all over the world. Pros and Cons of various materials. And ultimately, what leather, and fabric fit what demands. Beyond that, I would like to learn more about constructions, fits, characteristics of certain a creations of bespoke tailors and cobblers.

If I can be honest, and I do not intend to offend anyone - I think some male fashion rules are silly, such as always leave the button button undone because Edward VII was fat, or dress shirt cannot have a tie without a jacket because it looks incomplete. To me personally, I think dress shirt with a tie is better than without one despite of not having a jacket. Well, to each his own. I don’t want to start a war here.

Sociology has a theory, if I may butcher it a bit, it says you are you think other people think you are. It holds certain truth there, especially in the fashion world. Yet, if everyone follows the same thing without questioning why, it’s a bit boring and unscientific, isn’t?
 

Captain O

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First of all, thanks for your enlightenment(and sinyo18). I’m the kind of person who does not know how to talk about myself.

I’m 27 years old now and working in financial industry. However, I do not have to wear suit everyday. Since it’s more of a middle office job, the requirement is business casual. However, I have worn casual clothing, and seen people dressing casually all the time. Recently I try to dress better because I got married and think it’s a good time to depart from my college look. Plus, more formal style do look to me now.

I am the first of my family who actually have a college degree, a white collar job, and a first generation immigrant(came when I was 17). Therefore, I did not have examples I could learn from like many of you guys. I’m pretty ignorant before on men’s style.

I love to learn, to read. I have too many interests that it actually prevents from focusing on one subject and developing expertise on specific area. So far my attitude is that since they are my entertainment, it’s better than watch tv anyways.

Males fashion is my new interest. I started from r/malefashionadvice and r/goodyearwelt. Oh man, SF is hard to avoid. No matter what questions I googled, some of them have to lead me here.

I have learned some basics, such as differences between goodyear, Blake, Blake/rapid, stitch down, shoe brands, fused, fully/half canvassed suits. Yet, there is much to be learn. The next stage, I would like to know more about different tanneries and mills all over the world. Pros and Cons of various materials. And ultimately, what leather, and fabric fit what demands. Beyond that, I would like to learn more about constructions, fits, characteristics of certain a creations of bespoke tailors and cobblers.

If I can be honest, and I do not intend to offend anyone - I think some male fashion rules are silly, such as always leave the button button undone because Edward VII was fat, or dress shirt cannot have a tie without a jacket because it looks incomplete. To me personally, I think dress shirt with a tie is better than without one despite of not having a jacket. Well, to each his own. I don’t want to start a war here.

Sociology has a theory, if I may butcher it a bit, it says you are you think other people think you are. It holds certain truth there, especially in the fashion world. Yet, if everyone follows the same thing without questioning why, it’s a bit boring and unscientific, isn’t?

You can wear a tie without a jacket. The only reason I constantly wear a jacket is that I carry a "pocket secretary" instead of a wallet. Hip wallets are bad for the nerve that runs along your pelvis and along your buttocks. (It nearly deadened the nerve from having a hip wallet pressing against it for more than 35 years). A "pocket secretary" will not fit in a hip pocket and must be carried in a jacket pocket. This forces me to wear sports jackets, suit coats and blazers. I don't mind unless I'm out in the woods with my rifle, then I have a heavier jacket with an inside pocket that handles the "pocket secretary". This renders to point quite moot.

I feel comfortable in a dress shirt and wear a t-shirt beneath it, regardless of the weather. the t-shirt keeps me warmer in the winter and absorbs perspiration during the summer months. This allows me to wear dress clothing year-round without feeling uncomfortable.

I just bought a Vintage Royal Stetson Gray Bowler (100% rabbit fur) for about $104.00. It appears unworn and should give me at least 25 years of good wear (or until I'm dead and gone). For the price, it is a bargain (for a little over $4 a year). This is economically sound, don't you think?

Stay classy!
 
Last edited:
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Hi all,

Jared here. I'm 27 and a grad student in the States. I have a fairly minimalist style with lots of neutrals, but I'm interested in playing around more with fabrics and texture. Workwear was my first love, and I do love the combination of my raw denim and Chippewa boots, but I'm interested in moving past that. Some labels and designers I like quite a bit: Folk, Engineered Garments, Norse Projects, Uniqlo (for basics), Acne, APC.
 

Vinsep

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You can wear a tie without a jacket. The only reason I constantly wear a jacket is that I carry a "pocket secretary" instead of a wallet. Hip wallets are bad for the nerve that runs along your pelvis and along your buttocks. (It nearly deadened the nerve from having a hip wallet pressing against it for more than 35 years). A "pocket secretary" will not fit in a hip pocket and must be carried in a jacket pocket. This forces me to wear sports jackets, suit coats and blazers. I don't mind unless I'm out in the woods with my rifle, then I have a heavier jacket with an inside pocket that handles the "pocket secretary". This renders to point quite moot.

I feel comfortable in a dress shirt and wear a t-shirt beneath it, regardless of the weather. the t-shirt keeps me warmer in the winter and absorbs perspiration during the summer months. This allows me to wear dress clothing year-round without feeling uncomfortable.

I just bought a Vintage Royal Stetson Gray Bowler (100% rabbit fur) for about $104.00. It appears unworn and should give me at least 25 years of good wear (or until I'm dead and gone). For the price, it is a bargain (for a little over $4 a year). This is economically sound, don't you think?

Stay classy!


Congratulations on your new bowler! I think it’s something I definitely want to try when I’m more maturer.

I did receive a pocket secretary from my in laws this year. However I have not being using them at all because my pants and jackets are more slim fit. I simply cannot put it in my jacket without having it protrudes from somewhere.
 

Meyer-

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Hello everyone,
I'm a student trying to dress better and look more like a man rather than a boy. A few years ago I was the black tshirt with jeans guy and would dress like that everyday. I had one ugly shirt and one pants that I would wear for special occasions. Now I usually wear polos or button down shirts with jeans or chinos. It's a great improvement! :)

This forum has helped me a lot already so I finally decided to join and be part of this community. I hope to learn more and define my style better now that I'm a member.
 

Captain O

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Congratulations on your new bowler! I think it’s something I definitely want to try when I’m more maturer.

I did receive a pocket secretary from my in laws this year. However I have not being using them at all because my pants and jackets are more slim fit. I simply cannot put it in my jacket without having it protrudes from somewhere.

The key to carrying a pocket secretary is to let out your jacket at the back by about 2". This will permit you to carry your wallet without "breaking up" the cut of your sports jacket/coat. Go to a tailor and see what works best with your body type and arrange for all your jackets to fit that way. In the long run, you'll be happier, as well as more comfortable.

Stay classy.
 

Keyser Soze1

New Member
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Oct 1, 2017
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Hello,
My name is Keyser and I am currently a student at the University of Washington. I am studying Biology so that I may pursue medical school and more specifically a career in cardiothoracic surgery/neurosurgery (not certain which). I love raw denim and I am hoping to expand my wardrobe on this forum. I joined more specifically to sell some raw denim! I have 13 pairs of Iron Heart, Sugarcane, Samurai, and Momotaro I will be listing shortly for next to nothing. Cheers!
KS1
 

Sinyo18

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2017
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First of all, thanks for your enlightenment(and sinyo18). I’m the kind of person who does not know how to talk about myself.

I’m 27 years old now and working in financial industry. However, I do not have to wear suit everyday. Since it’s more of a middle office job, the requirement is business casual. However, I have worn casual clothing, and seen people dressing casually all the time. Recently I try to dress better because I got married and think it’s a good time to depart from my college look. Plus, more formal style do look to me now.

I am the first of my family who actually have a college degree, a white collar job, and a first generation immigrant(came when I was 17). Therefore, I did not have examples I could learn from like many of you guys. I’m pretty ignorant before on men’s style.

I love to learn, to read. I have too many interests that it actually prevents from focusing on one subject and developing expertise on specific area. So far my attitude is that since they are my entertainment, it’s better than watch tv anyways.

Males fashion is my new interest. I started from r/malefashionadvice and r/goodyearwelt. Oh man, SF is hard to avoid. No matter what questions I googled, some of them have to lead me here.

I have learned some basics, such as differences between goodyear, Blake, Blake/rapid, stitch down, shoe brands, fused, fully/half canvassed suits. Yet, there is much to be learn. The next stage, I would like to know more about different tanneries and mills all over the world. Pros and Cons of various materials. And ultimately, what leather, and fabric fit what demands. Beyond that, I would like to learn more about constructions, fits, characteristics of certain a creations of bespoke tailors and cobblers.

If I can be honest, and I do not intend to offend anyone - I think some male fashion rules are silly, such as always leave the button button undone because Edward VII was fat, or dress shirt cannot have a tie without a jacket because it looks incomplete. To me personally, I think dress shirt with a tie is better than without one despite of not having a jacket. Well, to each his own. I don’t want to start a war here.

Sociology has a theory, if I may butcher it a bit, it says you are you think other people think you are. It holds certain truth there, especially in the fashion world. Yet, if everyone follows the same thing without questioning why, it’s a bit boring and unscientific, isn’t?
 

Sinyo18

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Vinesep, you're very welcome. Regarding your questions of construction, fit, etc., I/we can only really assist if you ask specific questions.
For business casual or business anything really, one brand that I'd recommend is Hugo Boss, and Boss Black label if you can afford it for suits. Other than that, I'd need more specific information on what you want to mix and match, etc.

As for style from a sociological (and psychological) perspective, to quote Tanner Guzy, "dress intentionally", represent yourself through the clothing that you wear. That doesn't mean dressing super trendy or in ridiculously bright colors. Focus on how you can better combine simple wardrobe basics such as casual as well as business casual and formal wear. Think about fit, patterns and materials. Tanner breaks down style representation broadly as either rakish, rugged, or refined. These aforementioned categories are archetypes that help us to define our perception of ourselves, it's a stepping stone. Simply put clothing and style (not necessarily fashion or trend) is a reflection how you perceive yourself and the image of yourself that you'd like to project into the world at large. I hope that this info. has been helpful to you.

Best regards,

B.
 

Vinsep

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The key to carrying a pocket secretary is to let out your jacket at the back by about 2". This will permit you to carry your wallet without "breaking up" the cut of your sports jacket/coat. Go to a tailor and see what works best with your body type and arrange for all your jackets to fit that way. In the long run, you'll be happier, as well as more comfortable.

Stay classy.

Thanks for your tips.
 

Vinsep

Senior Member
Joined
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Messages
238
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Vinesep, you're very welcome. Regarding your questions of construction, fit, etc., I/we can only really assist if you ask specific questions.
For business casual or business anything really, one brand that I'd recommend is Hugo Boss, and Boss Black label if you can afford it for suits. Other than that, I'd need more specific information on what you want to mix and match, etc.

As for style from a sociological (and psychological) perspective, to quote Tanner Guzy, "dress intentionally", represent yourself through the clothing that you wear. That doesn't mean dressing super trendy or in ridiculously bright colors. Focus on how you can better combine simple wardrobe basics such as casual as well as business casual and formal wear. Think about fit, patterns and materials. Tanner breaks down style representation broadly as either rakish, rugged, or refined. These aforementioned categories are archetypes that help us to define our perception of ourselves, it's a stepping stone. Simply put clothing and style (not necessarily fashion or trend) is a reflection how you perceive yourself and the image of yourself that you'd like to project into the world at large. I hope that this info. has been helpful to you.

Best regards,

B.

Thank you for you advice. I'm in the process of upgrading my wardrobe now. It's not cheap haha. Therefore I think I will be sticking with some cheaper brands such as suitsupply for now. After that, I probably want to try some MTM or bespoke options.

I do not know which category I belong to yet. I have aspirations across different spectrum. It will be a journey that takes a while.
 

LA Guy

Opposite Santa
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Hi everyone,

Great to see all of you around here, and a belated welcome to many of you. @Sinyo18 , @Captain O , @Luigi_M , it would be great for you guys to take your more in depth conversations to new threads in Style Advice, Classic Menswear, and Streetwear and Denim, where more members can see the subject line and participate and learn!

Welcome to everyone once again.

Cheers,

Fok.
 

Captain O

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I just posted about two new (to me) vintage hats in Classic Menswear. You don't have to be 45+ years old to wear dress hats well. Don't wear them with neckbeards and t-shirts. It makes you look as if you are a pretentious hipster (take my word for it, no one wants to see that).
 

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