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Intial Impressions: Makers Horsebutt Engineer Boots


Apr 11, 2017
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I got these here on BST and u/skyfall made the whole transaction super easy. He is also an expert on many things leather - so he's been schooling me on Engineer boots. Since I'm an Engineer Boot newbie - take below FWIW.

Makers(http://maker-s.jp/) is owned by Shin Teshima(https://www.instagram.com/shinteshima/) in Tokyo. They only sell in Japan.

I exchanged some emails with Shin on Qs about the boots; he was thoroughly courteous, responsive and extremely passionate about his product. He says he’d like to sell in the US but has no US dealers right now and needs to sharpen his English. I had no trouble corresponding with him - his English was great. Maybe one of the US dealers can take him up on it.

You can see more of their shoes/boots at one of their
resellers here (http://mcflystore.web.fc2.com/stock/makers/makers.html)
and here(https://www.barnstormer.jp/product/list.php?cat=41&page=1).

A lot of shell cordovan and classic Americana going on – as with many Japanese brands we adore.

I read that Makers also manufactures the Attractions Engineer Boot – but don't have evidence for this. Perhaps others can confirm.

These are made of Shinki Horsebutt. I could not find a ton of information about this leather. I could confirm that it is veg tanned and made of horse - but that’s about it. Some think it’s the same as Horween’s north of cordovan. Others said it’s actually the whole rear of hide including the area used for shell. Please comment if you have more info and/or links.

What I have experienced so far in person is that it’s a very interesting leather – def very difference from calf. It’s very stiff – such that the shaft will support itself..and then some. But no break in trouble so far. I read there is a lot of variation across hides and even across diff areas of my 2 boots – you can see contrast in grain density, scarring etc. I actually love this variation right now – matches the boot’s personality perfectly.

It’s also surface painted/dyed and not dyed through. Stories of patina and tea core etc abound. Most recommend conditioning sparingly and just brushing to encourage patina. I will try.

GYW construction.

Upper: Triple stitching. Neat work. Everything I have come to expect from Japanese boot makers based on reviews here and elsewhere. Call out: front of boot is lined with fabric. My ‘purist’ side protested for a microsec – I’m not bothered. For a boot this price & quality – I have to guess that this is for a functional reason (leather is too thick already?) Vs saving $10 on material for leather lining. I don’t know – maybe others can comment.

Bottom: Leather midsole. Bitlrite heel and half-sole. Contrast white stitching.

I am brannock 9E and commonly wear 9.5D. These are US 9.5D. They about 0.5 size too big with thin socks – but good with thick socks. Since I am not planning to wear them in warm weather – I’m going to keep them & keep on with the break in.

Also - I learnt that Engineer boot sizing is interesting in that you can’t have em too snug coz then you can’t get in and out; You can't really lace up & tighten to fit after you get in either. Experts online are saying some heel slip is going to happen - especially in the beginning. So, I’m experimenting & waiting to see how the boot changes after break in. Advice from veteran Engineer wearers welcome

My first Engineer, first made-in-japan and first horse hide – so has been very interesting thus far!

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