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Interview with Antonio Ciongoli of Eidos Napoli, Part 1

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Distinguished Member

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    The term extended shoulder is really more of a continuum rather than a specific look, IMO. I think @A Y mentioned this in the A&S expat thread, but Mahon used to cut his shoulders to the outer edge of the arm, supposedly as he was trained to do so at A&S, but has since brought it in more, cause he finds the "extended shoulder" droops over time. FWIW, my NSM stuff is cut very snug against my shoulder, while my Steeds are cut a bit wider. Vox has had the opposite experience, so who knows if this really means anything.

    In any case, while I think it's fine to talk about generalities, it's really the end look that matters. Sometimes an extended shoulder can look quite good, IMO. It's really about the overall silhouette and the wearer than any one feature.

    But I also like some of the old Armani stuff, so what do I know ...
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014


  2. NickPollica

    NickPollica Distinguished Member

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    Coincidentally, Vox posted this on tumblr today: I think anyone that tries to argue against the elegance conveyed by the silhouette of the Nicholas brothers' jackets (typified by an extended shoulder and narrow waist) is fighting a steep uphill battle.
     


  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Brand adjacency is wicked important. I'v schemed many hours on how to get X designer into A+ retailer. For a starting retailer, and particularly a pure play, it's really hard. Often, it comes down to who you knwo who trusts your judgement and may or who may or may not owe you a favor.This is not meant as some sort of expose. It's the same in any business. Sometimes, it's getting brand Z owned or represented by a friend or close colleague first. That draws in brand Y, which in turn will make designer X consider the store seriously. For a lot of retailers, celebrity endorsements are also important. There are entire stores whose premise is based on selling the items that so and so was seen in while buying groceries.

    Online today - Tres Bien Shop and Mr. Porter are both considered by some brands to be pretty important stores. Trunk, which is loosely associated with Monocle, etc... Yeah, these stores exist. And of course, the big boys, like the Bergdorf Goodmans and the Barneys and the Maxfields of the world.
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2014


  4. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Distinguished Member

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  5. Synthese

    Synthese Darth Millennial Dubiously Honored

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    I believe I noted the exact same thing. I'm glad to see the interview up, and I'm glad that I didn't get a chance to do an SW+D one - I wouldn't have had a clue what to ask about, and wouldn't have had a clue what Antonio was talking about anyway.
     


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