Interview with Antonio Ciongoli of Eidos Napoli, Part 1

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I'm not a designer, but in my creative work, there are times when I'm more interested in seeing how people react to something than I am in evoking a specific response.

    I don't see that as limiting dialogue, but it does mean that the dialogue won't involve me trying to convince somebody to have "the right" reaction to it, and it will probably be more of "why do you feel that way about it?", which can be a lot more productive for me as an artist.

    Now, while I support that paradigm for art, I'm not convinced it applies to clothes for real life, but if my understanding of Pitti is correct, it's not "real life." It's not quite the fantasy world of a runway show, but the stands are supposed to be about pushing the brand as far as it will go, right? So it's valid to do something that's a bit OTT, and designed to get a reaction other than "I'll buy that."
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Party foul. If you mean to be sarcastic on the internet, you need to put (0) (perfectly serious) or (10) completely sarcastic, or some number in between, in your post I think that I am older than you (I'm 39) and even I know that. C'mon now.
     


  3. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    Wait, like 39 years old, or like a 39 in terms of sarcasm?
     


  4. malefe

    malefe Member

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    Hey guys...Just wanted to say that I recently purchased the washed Navy Asym Peacoat and I absolutely loved its minimalist elegance, The large tortoise buttons and the instantly-noticeable texture of the fabric is just beautiful. Understated details that really sell the high quality garment. Fit of course is perfectly slim and the coat itself is by no means garishly flashy.
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    With the rare exceptions, I feel that art and fashion are two different things, even though fashion has a strong artistic component. In a different era, the difference between the two might have been less pronounced, but the paradigm for art and the paradigm for business, in 2014, are quite distinct.
     


  6. malefe

    malefe Member

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  7. Mr. Claymore

    Mr. Claymore Senior member

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    Antonio, can't you just design some pretty stuff that people actually like, instead of all this ugly junk???

    Goodness gracious people! Can't you take your head out of your rear ends for once???

    You know the real problem with Pitti? It's that the people that attend actually love clothing and enjoy having fun dressing instead of most of the stuck in the mud narrow minded people here.

    Antonio is one of the most enthusiastic and talented designers I have meet. This is one small piece of an entire collection. He is just executing his vision. Every single piece is not for everyone and it's not supposed be. Why is that so difficult for you (the haters) to understand?
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I think as in 39 years old, but you've got me confused now.
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    That said, I've seen some really atrocious stuff at Pitti. You are left thinking "If you can't get good samples made for such an important tradeshow, I'm afraid to see what your products will be like when they hit the retail floor."
     


  10. Mr. Claymore

    Mr. Claymore Senior member

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    Of course, it's a trade show. Everyone is experimenting and trying to get attention for their brand. There is what the designers like, there is what the buyers like and then there is what is actually going to sell -everything in a shade of navy. But there is no need to sample the navy. It looks boring and we've all seen it a thousand times.
     


  11. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    For the record, I sampled tons of navy.
     


  12. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    I agree 100% with the bolded, but my impression is still that a Pitti stand has nearly as much in common with a gallery show as it does with a sales floor. It's like the "director's cut" of the line, right? I mean, the jacket in question didn't get picked up, but an easier-to-sell version of it did. The artistic/creative component at Pitti is given a bit more free reign than it is in the real world.

    Also, I think we're in a really strong moment for "art as commodity," which is following a fairly strong historical period of "art for art's sake." We end up having an odd perspective on how art should function, which is often partially grounded in the mechanics of the art business.
     


  13. vida

    vida Senior member

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    Antonio, I think what you are doing is fantastic! I love the look with the navy short sleeve shirt and gray trousers with side tabs...great!
    BTW, I've tried Isaia in a 36r and found it a bit full which was very surprising. In general, how will Eidos be cut in comparison?
    Lastly, your formal jacket reminds me of something Lapo Elkan might pull off quite nicely. And in the right setting, I would give it a shot myself !:happy:[​IMG]
     


  14. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    As someone who dresses nearly exclusively in blues and greys, I gotta say that there are hundreds, if not thousands, of shades thereof.
     


  15. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    "AC: ...I think what makes a beautiful dinner jacket or a beautiful tuxedo is very different than what makes a beautiful suit. I think dinner wear should look like dinner wear. It should have an extended shoulder, it should have a narrow waist, the lapels should be full, it should be a little bit more elevated. So there are fabrics in my mind that I think of when I think about that. But we want to innovate too. I think of this electric midnight blue as a formal fabric."

    Why is an extended shoulder something that a dinner jacket "should" have? Why is a "narrow waist" also necessary - given that a silhouette is often the last thing people evaluate at a late night formal event?

    Midnight blue - in a tux, in a dinner jacket - has been widely used for a while now...Is "electric midnight" blue then an innovation?

    I am fascinated by the purpose of clothes (form following function, for instance), but I don't know why some of AC's rules or should's are, in fact, musts and necessities in formal-wear.

    It's not clear that he does either.
     


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