Interview with Antonio Ciongoli of Eidos Napoli, Part 1

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Jul 17, 2014.

  1. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

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    Hmm...if only someone had created a venue (a challenge, perhaps, to occur on, I don't know, a Friday?) in which successful collaboration with a partner were the criteria. Alas.
     


  2. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    humblebrag.
     


  3. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'd wear that db tux jacket too.
     


  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It could be our official jacket, if you guys want to take things ultra nerdy.
     


  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I just hope there's a store that bought it so that I will be able to get one
     


  6. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I mean. Like. Make something. For me to wear.
     


  7. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    You would wear a RTW tailored jacket? I take that as a challenge for our Eidos buy meeting on Monday...
     


  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I might come with you to make sure you do the right thing here.

    I haven't bought a tailored RTW jacket in a while, but this one is really well done and potentially hard to replicate bespoke. Finding the right shantung probably wouldn't be easy.
     


  9. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    One of the benefits of RTW like ours vs. bespoke is access to fabrics not available to tailors. You just aren't going to find the some of the truly special things we offer via Holland and Sherry, Draper's, etc.

    Either way, Bloomingdales bought the swatch as an SB one button peak jacket which means we will probably have extra yardage left over which means we can take care of you at our MTM trunk show we will be doing with No Man Walks Alone starting in the fall.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014


  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    C: ...I think what makes a beautiful dinner jacket or a beautiful tuxedo is very different than what makes a beautiful suit. I think dinner wear should look like dinner wear. It should have an extended shoulder, it should have a narrow waist, the lapels should be full, it should be a little bit more elevated. So there are fabrics in my mind that I think of when I think about that. But we want to innovate too. I think of this electric midnight blue as a formal fabric.

    I disagree on every point, except "full" lapels. But then everything I wear has full lapels.
    What is shown approaches the costumey crap that seems to predominate at Pitti.
    I have never been to Pitti but my impression from SF coverage, is that the unifying
    principle of the clothing is a conspicuous lack of dignity.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014


  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    We'll have to disagree, as usual. The problem with some people at Pitti is that they take themselves too seriously, and don't have the self-awareness to understand that they are, in fact, a little silly, and that there is nothing wrong with that. That's real indignity, and I see that same trait in the shrill critics of the Pitti people. Really, in the end, it's just clothes. We need them because we are hopelessly inadequate animals. So, if we are going to get dressed, which most of us are, we may as well have some fun.

    The often articulated criticism that something is "costumey"? That's a chimera. We are all playing a part. "Dignified gentleman" is as much a part as "Pitti Peacock", and whether the person playing the part has "dignity" depends not so much on what they are wearing, as the awareness of the part that they are playing in this pageant.

    Regarding these clothes, in particular, I find them to be generally well thought out and designed with some care and with some humor.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014


  12. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    You disagree that a dinner jacket should have an extended shoulder and a narrowed waist?

    Its not about costume, its about context. My goal with our booth is to tell a story with mannequins and cloth - to place you directly into that setting. What is shown here is supposed to invoke an emotional response. So in that way I guess that I have succeeded.
     


  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    In the spirit of evenhandedness, I'm afraid that I disagree with the bolded part as well. There is clearly an intended emotional response, and I'm willing to bet decent money that revulsion was not it. I've heard a lot of designers say this in response to criticism of their work which does not invite a real discussion, and I sympathize with the compulsion to try to make lemonade out of lemons. I just don't think that the response is on the mark.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2014


  14. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    "So in that way I guess that I have succeeded."

    Sarcasm. Remember two posts ago where you talked about people at Pitti taking themselves too seriously? :) You can't make everybody happy and I don't aim to. If I managed to convince unbelragazzo to forgo a bespoke dinner jacket for an Eidos one, I've done my job.
     


  15. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Is there a date for the NMWA X Eidos trunk show?
     


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