interesting shirt patterns

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by newyorker, Apr 9, 2005.

  1. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    We talk a lot on this forum about shirt construction and fabric quality but quite little about the aesthetics of shirt patterns themselves. What are your favorite shirt patterns? It would be interesting to hear Mr Kabbaz and Shirtmaven tell us patterns that have turned out particularly nicely.

    I personally have two things that interest me at the moment:

    1- dark rose end-on-end shirt with red mop buttons (by Mr Kabbaz, featured in AMEX Departures)

    2- bright red thin bengal stripe on white, with white collars and cuffs (by Brioni and featured in the latest Bergdorf Goodman magazine)

    Hope to hear some interesting responses.
     


  2. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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    Excuse me if I verge into the pedantic, Newyorker, but I was of the belief that a bengal stripe shirt was by definition far bolder with a more distinct stripe than the Brioni shirt shown (now $395 for RTW.). The shirt shown with the Barbera cashmere would qualify as "Bengal" or here's another example: Â http://www.woodsofshropshire.co.uk/product....e-shirt . Still the Brioni ensemble is perhaps the only item in the whole catalog that could be worn to a business meeting, and the shirt is quite nice (but definitely needs nothing less formal than the grey wool pinstripe suit shown). As to patterns, I become more nostalgic (and perhaps less relevant) as I get older and am thinking of a blue-gray or blue-yellow tattersall for blazer wear. Tattersall is my own favorite pattern (or perhaps no pattern at all). P.S. I thought that the discussion you had with Brian, SD, and Alex about design and typography was entertaining (my wife, before she retired, was a graphic designer).
     


  3. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    I think you're probably right. I am refering to that shirt in the Bergdorf Goodman catalog. Fairly thin red stripes and white stripes, even width. That particular shade of red is not the usual maroon that you usually get with regular shirts. It looked quite stunning with the white collar and cuff, and I would be entirely comfortable wearing it with grey trousers without a suit and tie.

    Maybe I'm not sophisticated enough but a lot of what is featured in the Bergdorf magazine is not just unwearable but ugly to me.
     


  4. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    I believe that, by definition, a bengal stripe is one in which two alternating colored stripes OF EQUAL SIZE make the pattern.

    Dan
     


  5. STYLESTUDENT

    STYLESTUDENT Senior member

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    You're not the only one who questions where you can wear these clothes, which are purposely shown in an illusionary resort setting (where you can lie on the pier in your Martin Margiela motorcycle jacket). The pervasiveness of Ebay discussions on this forum coupled with the exotically priced Bergdorf retail items emphasize the unreality-more like a travel magazine and less like a catalog with which to purchase.
     


  6. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    Any interesting ideas? Come on, when we talk about clothes, we should not only talk about workmanship but styling as well. [​IMG]
     


  7. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Actually ... a burgundy 2x2 170's Swiss voile with slightly darker antique mop buttons.

    That's my (personal) shirt which (sadly) I never got to wear before it went to Departures before Christmas. It returned about a month ago. I have since worn it twice (which is a rarity for me) and I must say that it is easily in my top ten. Previously, the highest count striated "French" voile was 140's 2x2. The 170's is even more luscious ... but significantly more expensive.

    FYI, a Bengal stripe is usually considered to be one between 1/4" and 3/8" wide and with equally spaced stripes (one of which is usually white, though not always). The next smaller (1/8" to 3/16"), also regularly spaced, is called a Candy stripe. Next smaller (1/16") is referred to as a Dress stripe. Above 3/8" up to about 3/4" is commonly known as an Awning stripe and from 3/4" and up is referred to as an Ugly stripe.
     


  8. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    1- dark rose end-on-end shirt with red mop buttons (by Mr Kabbaz, featured in AMEX Departures)
    Actually ... a burgundy 2x2 170's Swiss voile with slightly darker antique mop buttons. That's my (personal) shirt which (sadly) I never got to wear before it went to Departures before Christmas. It returned about a month ago. I have since worn it twice (which is a rarity for me) and I must say that it is easily in my top ten. Previously, the highest count striated "French" voile was 140's 2x2. The 170's is even more luscious ... but significantly more expensive. FYI, a Bengal stripe is usually considered to be one between 1/4" and 3/8" wide and with equally spaced stripes (one of which is usually white, though not always). The next smaller (1/8" to 3/16"), also regularly spaced, is called a Candy stripe. Next smaller (1/16") is referred to as a Dress stripe. Above 3/8" up to about 3/4" is commonly known as an Awning stripe and from 3/4" and up is referred to as an Ugly stripe.
    Always thought that candy-stripe and bengal-stripe were interchangeable; thanks for clearing that up. koji
     


  9. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    Oh ... so that's what they're called? Those are the ones I like.
     


  10. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    To be sure, I was not serious.
     


  11. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    Alex, do you usually wear your shirts only once? Also, would you be willing to tell us some other shirts in your Top Ten selection?
     


  12. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    Sorry - poorly said. I rarely wear the same shirt twice in the same month. I have a shirt I have worn more than 200 times which I made in 1982. Damn sh.t's expensive... Wear once? No Way.

    That would be difficult. Cusey has his shoe fetish; Manton his drape fetish (and a certain thing for rules); Chuck would be happy going naked as long as he was wearing a tie. Likewise, I have a fabric problem. Once thought of beginning a chapter of FA ... but I would have been the only local member. That's the rub. There are at least 150 shirts in my top ten collection ... so where would I start?
     


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