• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Interesting eg model

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
I saw an interesting EG model at Saks on Friday. It's called the Southwold, and it's on the 888 last:
Southwold_888_1.jpg
Note the short wing cap, the unusually-shaped heel counter, and the fact that it's an Adelaide model. Very unusual, or at least I've never seen anything like it before. Jay Kos also has it on the 202 last, but why would you buy it there? Is it just me, or does it seem like there are a lot of short wing cap models showing up recently?
 

Nick M

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
1,482
Reaction score
1
I like 'em. It's a wingtip I could wear with a suit - the full brogue has always felt a little too casual/busy to me.

Is it just me, or does it seem like there are a lot of short wing cap models showing up recently?

Really? Who else makes them? I'm all for innovation, as long as it stays in the realms of good taste...
 

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
Is it just me, or does it seem like there are a lot of short wing cap models showing up recently?
Really? Who else makes them? I'm all for innovation, as long as it stays in the realms of good taste...
You had to go and ask me to justify my confident assertion, didn't you? The two that I can think of off the top of my head are a shoe in the most recent Cleverley catalogue and JL Paris's Vintage 2002 model (I think), where the wing cap isn't really a cap but a wing-shaped design done in skin stitching. Very striking. I seem to remember also seeing a picture of a Gravati model and a Grenson model (probably made for Paul Stuart), but I'm not sure.
 

Nick M

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2002
Messages
1,482
Reaction score
1
You had to go and ask me to justify my confident assertion, didn't you?
Nah, this is the Internet, you don't need to back up anything with actual evidence, but thanks. Italian influenced, do y'think? I could also swear I've seen the design somewhere else before... EDIT: Might've been a pair of Stefanobi that A Harris was selling a few months back.
 

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
Italian influenced, do y'think? I could also swear I've seen the design somewhere else before...
I would have thought quirkily English, but I don't know.
 

A Harris

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 6, 2003
Messages
4,599
Reaction score
78
Check these out. I like the EG model but I think it would look a lot better without the heel counter and on a shorter last such as the 202.
 

bengal-stripe

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 23, 2002
Messages
4,624
Reaction score
1,282
I quite like short wingtip caps (maybe it's the underdog thing, because they are so rare), but I think I agree with A Harris, the heel counters are rather over the top. I would have preferred a conventional counter design (or none at all), which I think would have balanced two slightly outrÃ
00a9.png
components (the "Adelaide" vamp and the short wingtip).

It's a bit like one of those dishes, where you top a perfect steak with prawns, add a truffle and then flambÃ
00a9.png
the whole thing for good measure.

Less is more (not less is a bore).
 

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
I like the EG model but I think it would look a lot better without the heel counter and on a shorter last such as the 202.
I don't know. I liked the look of the shoe on the 888. Unless I misremember, the Jay Kos version was on the 202, and I thought that the effect of the shoe on 888 was better.
 

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
Less is more (not less is a bore).
I think that you (and A Harris) are right. Throwing in three unusual design features is a bit over the top, though, to be honest, I don't think that I would opt for that particular counter design regardless of the other design elements of the shoe.
 

masterfred

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2003
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
I noticed this very model when I was in Saks last year. However, the one that caught my eye there was a side-gusseted shoe with leather panels trimmed on the elastic. It was a beautiful antiqued brown, had very fine brogueing throughout, and a toe cap. I don't know what last it was on, nor the model designation. It was on display outside Spano's little in-store shop. Shoefan or jcusey, have you seen this particular model?
 

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
However, the one that caught my eye there was a side-gusseted shoe with leather panels trimmed on the elastic. It was a beautiful antiqued brown, had very fine brogueing throughout, and a toe cap.
Unfortunately, I didn't see it. Was it EG? I've never seen a side-elastic EG shoe, although the design is so distinctively English that EG must have something in their catalogue.
 

bengal-stripe

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 23, 2002
Messages
4,624
Reaction score
1,282
Unfortunately, I didn't see it. Was it EG? I've never seen a side-elastic EG shoe, although the design is so distinctively English that EG must have something in their catalogue.
What about this one: http://cobblers.hp.infoseek.co.jp/monthly01-05.htm There are a number of variations, in some the elastic gets covered with leather strips. Edward Green also made a version for Poulsen Skone with "faux laces". This design (and it's numerous variations) was apparently old Mr Cleverley's favourite and is still a signature design for the Cleverley workshop. It is also featured in John Lobb's 1936 catalogue, so it's fair to presume that old Mr Cleverley didn't invent it, just refined it. At the moment you can see a black crocodile (or alligator), version at the Ralph Lauren London store, made to special order for as little as GBP 4500 ($ 8000). (But, of course you Americans can claim the tax back. I suppose that makes it a bargain.)
 

T4phage

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2003
Messages
5,973
Reaction score
671
Unfortunately, I didn't see it. Was it EG? I've never seen a side-elastic EG shoe, although the design is so distinctively English that EG must have something in their catalogue.
What about this one: http://cobblers.hp.infoseek.co.jp/monthly01-05.htm There are a number of variations, in some the elastic gets covered with leather strips. Edward Green also made a version for Poulsen Skone with "faux laces". This design (and it's numerous variations) was apparently old Mr Cleverley's favourite and is still a signature design for the Cleverley workshop. It is also featured in John Lobb's 1936 catalogue, so it's fair to presume that old Mr Cleverley didn't invent it, just refined it.
The link Bengal-Stripe posted shows an EG side elastic that looks very similar to the new Wimpole handgrade by C&J (minus the perforations). Side elastics - what a simple and elegant shoe..... especially Cleverley's rendition minus all broging... just a simple apron.
smile.gif
 

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
There are a number of variations, in some the elastic gets covered with leather strips. Edward Green also made a version for Poulsen Skone with "faux laces".

This design (and it's numerous variations) was apparently old Mr Cleverley's favourite and is still a signature design for the Cleverley workshop. It is also featured in John Lobb's 1936 catalogue, so it's fair to presume that old Mr Cleverley didn't invent it, just refined it.
I had the opportunity to see Cleverley's version of the faux-lace side elastic shoe recently, and it looks a lot less contrived in person than it does in the pictures on Jun Kuwana's website. I still don't think that I would get a shoe in that design, but very nice nonetheless.

I had forgotten about the EG Atlee. Thanks for the reminder.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 36 15.8%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.8%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,480
Messages
10,589,812
Members
224,252
Latest member
ColoradoLawyer
Top