Interesting eg model

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jcusey, May 3, 2004.

  1. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I saw an interesting EG model at Saks on Friday. It's called the Southwold, and it's on the 888 last: [​IMG] Note the short wing cap, the unusually-shaped heel counter, and the fact that it's an Adelaide model. Very unusual, or at least I've never seen anything like it before. Jay Kos also has it on the 202 last, but why would you buy it there? Is it just me, or does it seem like there are a lot of short wing cap models showing up recently?
     
  2. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    I like 'em. It's a wingtip I could wear with a suit - the full brogue has always felt a little too casual/busy to me.

    Really? Who else makes them? I'm all for innovation, as long as it stays in the realms of good taste...
     
  3. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is it just me, or does it seem like there are a lot of short wing cap models showing up recently?
    Really? Who else makes them? I'm all for innovation, as long as it stays in the realms of good taste...
    You had to go and ask me to justify my confident assertion, didn't you? The two that I can think of off the top of my head are a shoe in the most recent Cleverley catalogue and JL Paris's Vintage 2002 model (I think), where the wing cap isn't really a cap but a wing-shaped design done in skin stitching. Very striking. I seem to remember also seeing a picture of a Gravati model and a Grenson model (probably made for Paul Stuart), but I'm not sure.
     
  4. Nick M

    Nick M Senior member

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    Nah, this is the Internet, you don't need to back up anything with actual evidence, but thanks. Italian influenced, do y'think? I could also swear I've seen the design somewhere else before... EDIT: Might've been a pair of Stefanobi that A Harris was selling a few months back.
     
  5. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would have thought quirkily English, but I don't know.
     
  6. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Check these out. I like the EG model but I think it would look a lot better without the heel counter and on a shorter last such as the 202.
     
  7. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I quite like short wingtip caps (maybe it's the underdog thing, because they are so rare), but I think I agree with A Harris, the heel counters are rather over the top. I would have preferred a conventional counter design (or none at all), which I think would have balanced two slightly outrÃ[​IMG] components (the "Adelaide" vamp and the short wingtip).

    It's a bit like one of those dishes, where you top a perfect steak with prawns, add a truffle and then flambÃ[​IMG] the whole thing for good measure.

    Less is more (not less is a bore).
     
  8. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know. I liked the look of the shoe on the 888. Unless I misremember, the Jay Kos version was on the 202, and I thought that the effect of the shoe on 888 was better.
     
  9. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think that you (and A Harris) are right. Throwing in three unusual design features is a bit over the top, though, to be honest, I don't think that I would opt for that particular counter design regardless of the other design elements of the shoe.
     
  10. masterfred

    masterfred Well-Known Member

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    I noticed this very model when I was in Saks last year. However, the one that caught my eye there was a side-gusseted shoe with leather panels trimmed on the elastic. It was a beautiful antiqued brown, had very fine brogueing throughout, and a toe cap. I don't know what last it was on, nor the model designation. It was on display outside Spano's little in-store shop. Shoefan or jcusey, have you seen this particular model?
     
  11. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Unfortunately, I didn't see it. Was it EG? I've never seen a side-elastic EG shoe, although the design is so distinctively English that EG must have something in their catalogue.
     
  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What about this one: http://cobblers.hp.infoseek.co.jp/monthly01-05.htm There are a number of variations, in some the elastic gets covered with leather strips. Edward Green also made a version for Poulsen Skone with "faux laces". This design (and it's numerous variations) was apparently old Mr Cleverley's favourite and is still a signature design for the Cleverley workshop. It is also featured in John Lobb's 1936 catalogue, so it's fair to presume that old Mr Cleverley didn't invent it, just refined it. At the moment you can see a black crocodile (or alligator), version at the Ralph Lauren London store, made to special order for as little as GBP 4500 ($ 8000). (But, of course you Americans can claim the tax back. I suppose that makes it a bargain.)
     
  13. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    Unfortunately, I didn't see it. Was it EG? I've never seen a side-elastic EG shoe, although the design is so distinctively English that EG must have something in their catalogue.
    What about this one: http://cobblers.hp.infoseek.co.jp/monthly01-05.htm There are a number of variations, in some the elastic gets covered with leather strips. Edward Green also made a version for Poulsen Skone with "faux laces". This design (and it's numerous variations) was apparently old Mr Cleverley's favourite and is still a signature design for the Cleverley workshop. It is also featured in John Lobb's 1936 catalogue, so it's fair to presume that old Mr Cleverley didn't invent it, just refined it.
    The link Bengal-Stripe posted shows an EG side elastic that looks very similar to the new Wimpole handgrade by C&J (minus the perforations). Side elastics - what a simple and elegant shoe..... especially Cleverley's rendition minus all broging... just a simple apron. [​IMG]
     
  14. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I had the opportunity to see Cleverley's version of the faux-lace side elastic shoe recently, and it looks a lot less contrived in person than it does in the pictures on Jun Kuwana's website. I still don't think that I would get a shoe in that design, but very nice nonetheless.

    I had forgotten about the EG Atlee. Thanks for the reminder.
     

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