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INSANELY RARE TRAD/IVY GRAIL!! c. 38, 40. A STUNNING Original "Chippworth" by Chipp 3/2 sack, patch

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tweedydon

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INSANELY RARE TRAD GRAIL!

Stunning "Chippworth" by Chipp 3/2 sack jacket


I don't use the term "Grail" lightly, but this jacket qualifies as a Grail, in spades. It's an original example of the "Chippworth" line from the utterly Ivy tailoring firm Chipp of New York, which counted Ambassadors and Heads of State among its customers. The "Chippworth" line of menswear was aimed at the Ivy League set; here's the copy from the ad. announcing its unveiling in the Daily Princetonian on the 27th October, 1959:

"CHIPP EXHIBITING AT NASSAU INN TODAY AND TOMORROW Open 9 A.M.-9 P.M. Today — 9 AJM.-5 P.M. Tomorrow Introducing the Chippworth Chipp has developed a special line of clothing, to be known as Chippworth, designed to offer the basic suits needed in a university man's wardrobe.. Chippworth suits will take into consideration the differences in waist proportions and incorporate all important details found in our Chipp clothing, such as similar-in-cut lapel shape and front shape, hand sewn buttonholes and genuine horn buttons. The size range will be 36 through 44 Regular, in shorts 36-38-40, and 38 through 44 longs and extra longs coats and trousers. Trouser cut with 7'" drop up to size 40; 6" drop on all larger sizes. Fabrics: Flannel, hopsack and worsted. Price — $75.00 As is our usual custom, we will also exhibit the complete line of Chipp clothing and accessories."

This jacket certainly lives up to the high expectations that this advertisement would have engendered in the men of Princeton at the twilight of the 1950s. Fully canvassed, it is absolutely perfectly cut from Spring and Summer weight cloth in a beautiful shade of burnt orange--the richer colours shown in my pictures are closer to the actual tone of this jacket. (And what Princeton man would not want a burnt orange jacket?) It is, of course, a 3/2 sack, with absolutely perfectly narrow lapels and a perfect lapel roll. It is half-lined in a complementary shade of paler sherbet orange--almost certainly in bemberg--and features lapped seams across the shoulders and down the center back. It has a beautiful center hook vent. The buttons appear to be mother of pearl--all are intact, and all still tightly attached. It features two patch pockets. It was, of course, Union-Made in the USA--after all, it was made by Chipp! It is in absolutely excellent condition.

Frankly, you WILL NOT find another jacket like this--your only hope might be to approach Paul Winston at Chipp and see if he can produce a bespoke copy for you, and even then it's unlikely you'll find a cloth this perfect shade of burnt orange. And the cost would be astronomical... and you still wouldn't have an original Chippworth. So, if this jacket is in your size, and you like it--and who wouldn't?--grab it. As the saying goes, the quality will remain long after the cost if forgotten... and the cost isn't that much, anyway, when you consider that you'll pay three times this for an OTR jacket at some mall store today!

So, how much for this trad. classic? Well, in celebration of this weekend marking four years since I started passing along trad/Ivy items here and on Ask Andy, how about a ridiculously low $125, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in CONUS? :) And offers are very welcome, as always! International inquiries are also welcome, with tracked, insured Priority shipping at cost.

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 26 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 31 1/2


 

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tweedydon

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