Information about Charvet and Cifonelli bespoke suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by lasbar, Oct 4, 2007.

  1. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I thought Smalto was nothing but a designer brand now.

    What about Lanvin and Max Evezline?
     


  2. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Rjman ,i'm quite a forceful person but only when i do have the knowledge of what i'm referring to...

    When it is coming to bespoke tailoring , my knowledge of the field concerned is too superficial to take an informed decision ....

    I do not want to follow trends and local fads but i'm trying to go to the best place to get the best product that my money could afford...

    I'm doing my homework and calling every Dick and Tom in town...
    i have done the same for my shoes and i have learned quite a lot.......

    Every piece of advice is welcomed but it doesn't mean that i will follow it...
     


  3. M. Alden

    M. Alden Active Member

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    Smalto has an MTM service that is sold as pure bespoke, it isn't. My comment had a bit of wishful thinking attached, hoping that Francesco, once a great bespoke tailor, might make a comeback.

    Lanvin's bespoke tailor from Abruzzo retired about two years ago. He was a great guy and a pretty average tailor.

    Max Evzeline still exists on the Rue Faubourg St. Honore, though a mere shadow of its former greatness. Max Evzeline founded the shop along with his relatives, who came to Paris from Eastern Europe. During the 1950s it was one of the "Great Five" Parisian tailors. Mr. Max is long since deceased and the tradition is being carried as best as can be expected given the lack of interest among Parisians for bespoke clothing.

    Di Fiore, rue Tournon, is another tailor who came out of the Camps school. He is a very likable guy and a good tailor.

    Joseph Kergoat, rue Pont au Choux, is an oldtimer who makes suits with a canvassing that nears steel armor in weight. If you want a stiff, rigid suit he is good choice.

    On the MTM side of things, Kees Van Beers, rue Lafitte, does a nice job as does Pape, on the avenue Rapp.

    Good luck in your search.

    Michael Alden
    www.thelondonlounge.net
     


  4. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Kergoat is interesting in that he worked for the old couture house Carven.
     


  5. M. Alden

    M. Alden Active Member

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    You would do best with a solid dose of knowledge regarding bespoke tailoring. Forget the tailors for a few moments and give yourself sometime to learn what constitutes great fit, construction and finishing. Then you will be able to recognize same on your visits.

    A great tailor is like a Formula one race car, its only as good as its pilot. A great bespeaker will pull a masterpiece from a tailor while an average one will go home with a sack of potatoes from the very same hand. It may not seem fair, but that's the way it is. It's the client that makes the tailor and not vice versa.

    In this regards, as Monsieur RJ has tried to point out, it is vain to focus on what your friend, mother-in-law, writer or anyone on this forum might advise. You need to learn and then focus your efforts on one tailor who can best realize what you are capable of imagining.

    Michael Alden
    www.thelondonlounge.net
     


  6. M. Alden

    M. Alden Active Member

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    Yes, and he has many female clients. I have seen some of the women's clothes he has made and they are wonderful, especially his overcoats.

    Joe also had access to one of the real old time Parisian trouser makers who is pretty much retired but does some work here or there.

    I once followed the making of a suit commissioned by a young man from a piece of 14 ozs. worsted from Smith's. The young man wanted a very lightweight construction and what he got weighed a ton and a half...and Joe thought it a bit light. This is a throw back to women's couture...

    Michael Alden
    www.thelondonlounge.net
     


  7. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    I have had a long chat with the old Camp guard Monsieur Gabriel Gonzalez and i 'm going to meet him in Paris....

    I'm learning and that learning curve is as obscure and difficult than the one i had to follow for my bespoke shoes...

    I started with JM WESTON ,Berluti ,Lobb before finding Tony Gaziano and Anthony Delos...I learned how to separate fads,myths and pure skills........
    I'm now staying with Anthony and Tony and i'm planning to do the same with tailoring...


    My dreams have evolved and i'm getting along my own personal path from Versace to Brioni/Kiton and now i do have the desire for something more personal...

    I know what i want and i do know a few people in the tailoring idustry because my mum used to design costumes for plays...
     


  8. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    Before you go to Cifonelli I suggest you visit Marc Deluca (Place de la Madeleine)

    Lasbar, Parisian sur mesure tailors came up in conversation that I had last week with one of your country men (le Bottier) and in his view Camps de Luca is superior to Cifonelli and Charvet. I'm sure you've seen this clip before, but if not check it out: http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x21...ps-jt_creation
     


  9. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Camps used to be the centre d'excellence of the French tailoring and Gabriel Gonzalez is one of this well skilled old guard with Francesco Smalto.

    I had a good chat with him and he told me that only a few excellent tailors are still working the ancient way....
    Camps used to be one of these places but with De Luca on board ,Camps has lost a bit of its unique Parisian classic elegance.....

    I knew that buying Cifonelli or Charvet is buying a name more than some excellent skills....

    I will try Gabriel Gonzalez and tell you ...
     


  10. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I knew that buying Cifonelli or Charvet is buying a name more than some excellent skills....

    I wouldn't throw the baby out with the bathwater. Nobody has said anything but good things on here about Charvet, including Alden who is both very knowledgeable overall and lives in Paris.
     


  11. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Rjman and Alden are extremely knowledgeable and patient which are cardinal virtues for me....[​IMG]

    I will try to learn and to understand a bit more about tailoring to avoid falling into mediocre tailoring...

    I will visit Charvet,Cifonelli and Gonzalez and let you know...

    I also have to feel and understand their styles and personalities ,very important factors in any working relationship...
     


  12. bobby

    bobby Member

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    Before you go to Cifonelli I suggest you visit......Rovito (near Place Vendone.)
    There are many tourist tailors in Paris. My often unheeded advice is to avoid them.


    Michael Alden
    www.thelondonlounge.net

    I'm also looking for a bespoke tailor in Paris, and I've never before heard of M. Rovito. Any additional information?
     


  13. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Top SR and NYC bespoke are going to cost you $4500-$5000 for a three piece suit in a good cloth so, beside Arnys, the price don't seem that different.

    It's getting worse. Kilgour is quoting $5,500 for their American tour. That's after the discount. Ex-VAT. Before customs. For a two piece.

    But they've always charged more than most on the Row. I think A&S is still at GBP 2200 for 2-piece, probably 2,600 for a 3-piece. Hitchcock charges about 10% less than that.
     


  14. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Are you talking ready to wear or what? 2500 pounds on fully bespoke on the row? Are you having a laugh or what?
    It is more like 3500 pounds mark ,more for A&S...

    On Paris ,more news...Arnys is very very expensive...I'm more going the Gabriel Gonzalez way or cIFONELLI...
     


  15. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Export price before discounts at Kilgour is 2,900 for a 2-piece. I'd guess 3,500 for a 3-piece, and you would indeed pay more than that if you were buying in England.
     


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