Indochino suits?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by crease, Jan 4, 2008.

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  1. brianvtusa

    brianvtusa New Member

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    Regarding the colored stitching on the boutonniere, I liked the detail in a few of the Hedonist line of suits and I asked them to match the color of the thread used for the boutonniere to the color of the lining. It is a nice effect when the jacket is open and you catch glimpses of the lining. I agree that it's not the most formal effect, but a little bit a flare nonetheless.

    As for the length of the jacket, it does look a tad short in this photo but from straight-on in a mirror it looks perfect. It falls exactly to the first knuckle of my thumb when my arms are straight down and since I am short (5'7") I wanted it there as opposed to the second knuckle (I went by Alan Flusser's suggestion in Clothes and the Man).

    Haha, "banana in my pocket"! Hardly, though now that you mention it I do see the optical illusion fold you're refering to...I assure you I was "dressed" to the other side in the photo. There's none of that when I am not trying to do the silly one-foot-forward thing.

    Thanks for the feedback!
     
  2. aridhol

    aridhol Active Member

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    I received my indochino suit (Mason Grey). Some thoughts: Material feels great. Color is exactly as I imagined and I really like it. Suit has not been hung up for long (just out of box). Please critique the fit! Edit: I just realized I left the vents sewn together... [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  3. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    Please critique the fit!

    The front balance is really short, which is making the quarters swing shut even more than they otherwise would be, and then the closed quarters result in quite a boxy look overall.

    The sleeves are also too long, on both the jacket and shirt, I would probably take over an inch off them.
     
  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Please critique the fit!
    Jacket is too short for your build -- you should get them to do it over again for this reason alone Something is off in the torso (should hang straight in the back) Shoulders might be too wide
     
  5. jbharris88

    jbharris88 Senior member

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    The front balance is really short, which is making the quarters swing shut even more than they otherwise would be, and then the closed quarters result in quite a boxy look overall.

    The sleeves are also too long, on both the jacket and shirt, I would probably take over an inch off them.


    +1 Need to bring the button stance down, how far above your navel is it? You are a big boy, which is not the Indochino norm. Shorten sleeves and pants and get some decent shoes.
     
  6. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Jacket is too short for your build -- you should get them to do it over again for this reason alone
    Something is off in the torso (should hang straight in the back)
    Shoulders might be too wide


    I agree that it seems short in the front. Shorten the sleeves, and don't wear a black dress shirt. Unless you're at the club! And wear shoes with your pictures so we can check the length and break that you'll normally see.
     
  7. greenlief

    greenlief New Member

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    My first indochino suit arrived. Also got the shirts with it. Here are some pics, I would really appreciate any feedback on the modifications I need to make in order to get a better fit.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    My first indochino suit arrived. Also got the shirts with it. Here are some pics, I would really appreciate any feedback on the modifications I need to make in order to get a better fit.

    You could get a better fit with an off-the-rack suit. There are a lot of slim options these days. More often then not, Indochina messes up the shoulders on its suits. They either extend past the person's shoulder bones or have some issue with construction.

    -Shoulders are wrong --- they extend past your own shoulders
    -There's too much material under the arms
    -Jacket length is too short in the back
    -Jacket waist is ok
    -Sleeves and pant legs are too long
    -Pants are ill-fitting (too tapered)

    You could also use a shirt with a narrower shirt collar and a smaller neck circumference (too big for you now).

    Burn the shoes and get a pair of leather lace-ups. AE, Cheaney, Loake, and Herring are
    all good entry level makers.
     
  9. aridhol

    aridhol Active Member

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    Thanks for all the replies. I am going to look at getting the arms shortened a bit.

    Pics with the vents cut (doh) and some shoes.



    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Any better?

    If the jacket is too short there's nothing to be done about that right?
    How would I adjust my measurements to get this done right?
     
  10. intent

    intent Senior member

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    Thanks for all the replies. I am going to look at getting the arms shortened a bit.

    Pics with the vents cut (doh) and some shoes.

    ...


    Any better?

    If the jacket is too short there's nothing to be done about that right?
    How would I adjust my measurements to get this done right?


    I don't like the jacket for other reasons: You chose a peak lapel, which is supposed to exaggerate a V body shape. However, the three horizontal front pockets are jetted, emphasizing width moreso than regular flapped pockets. The ticket pocket only adds to this problem. Finally, there's probably nothing you can do about it, but the chest pocket needs to be a bit slanted to de-emphasize horizontal lines (barchetta style) and help the V.
     
  11. greenlief

    greenlief New Member

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    You could get a better fit with an off-the-rack suit. There are a lot of slim options these days. More often then not, Indochina messes up the shoulders on its suits. They either extend past the person's shoulder bones or have some issue with construction.

    -Shoulders are wrong --- they extend past your own shoulders
    -There's too much material under the arms
    -Jacket length is too short in the back
    -Jacket waist is ok
    -Sleeves and pant legs are too long
    -Pants are ill-fitting (too tapered)

    You could also use a shirt with a narrower shirt collar and a smaller neck circumference (too big for you now).

    Burn the shoes and get a pair of leather lace-ups. AE, Cheaney, Loake, and Herring are
    all good entry level makers.


    Thanks for the advice, I'm definitely going to get a remake. If it doesn't improve the fit, I'll stick with OTR + tailoring.

    Any other comments on the fit?
     
  12. jbharris88

    jbharris88 Senior member

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    My first indochino suit arrived. Also got the shirts with it. Here are some pics, I would really appreciate any feedback on the modifications I need to make in order to get a better fit.

    You are a skinny dude and that tie is so big it is throwing off the proportions of everything! Also, it needs to be tight enough to close the gap at your neck. The shirt sleeves seem like the right length but you could benefit from taking inches off the bicep and the waist. Either pull your pants up or get some length off b/c they should not be pooling at the bottom. Also, buy a new belt and new shoes b/c they are too casual. Otherwise, I think the pants are appropriate. The jacket needs shorter sleeves so a small amount of cuff shows and reduction of either waist or back measurements b/c the shoulder blade area is horrendous. That area alone constitutes a remake. You could stand to reduce the bicep measurement on the coat too. The length of the vest should be shortened a bit in the front.



    If the jacket is too short there's nothing to be done about that right?
    How would I adjust my measurements to get this done right?


    You cannot lengthen a jacket, but you may not need to once the sleeves are shortened. The shoes make a difference! Get your pants shortened b/c the break is too much and your pants are puddling on your shoes. I agree with intent about all the nuances. I'm not sure why people want things like peak lapels and jetted pockets but are seeking traditional suits.
     
  13. greenlief

    greenlief New Member

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    You are a skinny dude and that tie is so big it is throwing off the proportions of everything! Also, it needs to be tight enough to close the gap at your neck. The shirt sleeves seem like the right length but you could benefit from taking inches off the bicep and the waist. Either pull your pants up or get some length off b/c they should not be pooling at the bottom. Also, buy a new belt and new shoes b/c they are too casual. Otherwise, I think the pants are appropriate. The jacket needs shorter sleeves so a small amount of cuff shows and reduction of either waist or back measurements b/c the shoulder blade area is horrendous. That area alone constitutes a remake. You could stand to reduce the bicep measurement on the coat too. The length of the vest should be shortened a bit in the front.
    Thank you for the excellent advice. What measurements in particular would be off in order to cause all the wrinkling in the jacket and the pants? They added 1.5" to my shoulder measurement, which definitely doesn't help. They also added 2" to my bicep and wrist measurements.
     
  14. jbharris88

    jbharris88 Senior member

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    Thank you for the excellent advice.

    What measurements in particular would be off in order to cause all the wrinkling in the jacket and the pants? They added 1.5" to my shoulder measurement, which definitely doesn't help. They also added 2" to my bicep and wrist measurements.


    I'd say that is pretty standard for your 1st jacket. They'd rather it be too big and you deal w/ it than too small and have to remake it. Makes sense if you think about why they are doing that but stupid if you ask me. They must have a lot of customers away from SF that keep the stuff w/out a remake based on what they receive after original measurements, but who knows...

    I have no idea why your ass is wrinkling, it looks like there is plenty of fabric there. If the thigh were tight like in some of my previous pants then it'd make sense. How's the crotch? Wrinkling in length is due to being too long. The taper looks fine b/c you are a skinny dude. I doubt OTR would ever work for you so I encourage you to keep at it w/ Indochino or the like. I know what it's like being part of the non-typical size. But seriously, you have to buy some better shoes. Invest wisely.




    A lot of critiques in this thread could be solved with some Suit 101. Pick up a book, read a website, follow a blog - LEARN THE BASICS OF FIT!! Here is a good example: http://dappered.com/2010/11/the-suit...riority-guide/
     
  15. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    The shirt sleeves seem like the right length but you could benefit from taking inches off the bicep and the waist. Either pull your pants up or get some length off b/c they should not be pooling at the bottom. Also, buy a new belt and new shoes b/c they are too casual. Otherwise, I think the pants are appropriate. The jacket needs shorter sleeves so a small amount of cuff shows and reduction of either waist or back measurements b/c the shoulder blade area is horrendous. That area alone constitutes a remake. You could stand to reduce the bicep measurement on the coat too. The length of the vest should be shortened a bit in the front.

    You cannot lengthen a jacket, but you may not need to once the sleeves are shortened. The shoes make a difference! Get your pants shortened b/c the break is too much and your pants are puddling on your shoes. I agree with intent about all the nuances. I'm not sure why people want things like peak lapels and jetted pockets but are seeking traditional suits.



    I'm not sure I agree with the 'shorten the vest' comment. If you do, you'll have a lot of shirt showing. But I've only just bought one 3piece myself so I'm not expert. Google some pictures and see what guys like Sean Connery look like.

    As far as the pants go, I don't think you can make a recommendation with those shoes. The bunching problem may be because they are large and chunky.

    I agree that there seems to be a weird drape behind your armpits.
     

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