"individualized shirts"

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hopkins_student, Oct 6, 2004.

  1. hopkins_student

    hopkins_student Senior member

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    The most high end store in Baltimore sells made to measure shirts from "Individualized Shirts". Does anybody know anything about this company? How do they compare to RTW shirts from high-end makers such as Borrelli?

    Thanks.
     


  2. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Senior member

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    This company hs been mentioned quite a few times here and on Ask Andy - quite favorably if memory serves. A search should give a few hits.
     


  3. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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    Individualized Shirts is part of the shirtmaking branch of the Individualized Apparel Group (e.g. Tom Jones, Oxxford, Hart Schaffner Marx, Hickey-Freeman etc). Individualized Shirts' MTM shirts are sold under the Yapre' label at Neiman-Marcus. You could also buy Individualized MTM shirts from Syd Jerome in Chicago, Saks Fifth Avenue in NYC or probably a number of other retailers. Gitman Bros, which is also part of the Individualized Apparel Group, makes Burberry shirts for the US market.
    As for comparing it to Borrelli, it's very different. It's OK, but probably too expensive for what it is.
     


  4. jekv12

    jekv12 Senior member

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    I've placed about 5 orders with Individualized Shirts over the last
    6-7 years, for a total of about 30 shirts. At first I was ecstatic to
    get MTM shirts at my local men's store (I was used to
    Philadelphia stores before moving a distance out), because in
    regular size I'm about a slim 15.5 x 37 (36.5 on one side, 37 on the other (technically a dropped right shoulder). But things
    haven't worked out as well as I would like. First the pros:

    - it is MTM, and assuming your store's service is like mine, you
    try on a few shells to get an idea of body fit

    - good selection of collars and cuffs (though not as many
    cuffs as I've seen elsewhere)

    - very good selection of fabrics, and this improved dramatically over time

    - with the move to business casual (yeah, I know) I could get
    a number of long-sleeve casual shirts that actually fit

    The cons:

    - the fit on the first batch wasn't great. Some of that was
    my doing, I accepted a looser shell than I should have.

    - quality and construction is OK at best. I've had shirts come
    with the buttons on upside down, for example

    - pattern matching. My gosh, this has to be the worst part.
    I've sent back maybe 3 shirts because a check, stripe, box, etc
    didn't line up across the front placket. I gave up with another,
    simply didn't open the shirt, haven't worn it. To their credit,
    the store folks do everything they can to make it right, but
    at $120+ per shirt and some alleged hand work, you'd think it would
    be much better than this (BTW, maybe only half of the shirts
    are patterned, so you're looking at 4 out of 12 not being right).

    - pattern matching part II - looking for comments here - how
    maniacal do you get about the pattern matching in the sleeve
    placket? My shirts aren't good. At last, the collar patterns
    match pretty well, as do the cuff patterns (ie the stripes are
    about the same length at the point and egde of the cuff), but
    this took a lot of talking to the rep during the order and ensuring
    he made notes.

    If you go this route, I'd suggest sticking to solids (or
    getting assurance re: the patterns), specifying all the details
    (type of back: box pleat, etc - otherwise you might get the
    "default") and waiting until the rep from
    Individualized Shirts came to your store. I found working with
    him much more satisfactory than the store staff. In fact, I
    needed a new formal shirt and wanted a very narrow pleat, and what they had on the sample cards wasn't doing it for me. The rep
    went out to his car and got more, and was thorough enough to
    ask about my stud set - three or four? Fortunately, I didn't have to worry about patterns.

    I have to go some sort of custom or MTM route to get a
    fit with selection, though Charles Thyrwhitt is decent and
    nicely priced. After seeing some of the posts here, I may try
    Jantzen and deal with the hassle or perhaps try Barba because
    of their slimmer fit (if the sleeve length is OK).
     


  5. ROI

    ROI Well-Known Member

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    My experience with Individualized exactly duplicates jekv12's. The reason I've resorted to Individualized is to get sport shirts that fit. Of all the minor irritations, the one that stares me in the face all day at my desk is mismatched cuff patterns. A blue and white broadly striped shirt with one cuff edge white and the other blue makes putting on a blue blazer a self-defeating gesture toward dressing up.
     


  6. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Borrelli is probably the best overall RTW (material, buttons, stitching, handiwork) shirt manufactured in Italy, perhaps in the world. For me the runner up is H&K because of their perfect RTW pattern matching, split-yoke, and cutaway collar (which coincidently many people on the forum admire so much that they have requested shirts from Jantzen with a copy of the same collar).

    Jon.
     


  7. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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    Sorry, I suppose the last sentence of my previous sentence may have been misunderstood. What I intended to say is that Y'apre shirts are too expensive for what they are, and that Y'apre shirts are quite different from Borrelli shirts.
     


  8. Mark Seitelman

    Mark Seitelman Senior member

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    I believe that Individualized Shirts makes two lines.

    The first line is fairly reasonably priced at $100 to $250 or so. It cannot be compared to a Borrelli. A Borrelli is in the Rolls Royce class. Borrelli is in a separate class. The basic lin is essentially a good value. I wear them along with Turnbull and Borrelli and others of similar ilk.

    Individualized Shirts has a deluxe line under the names Oxxford Bespoke and Y'Pres (?). It is made in the same factory but with a separate time dedicated to making a fine shirt.

    I have been told that it is comparable or indeed exceeds Turnbull. The ones that I have seen look excellent and have beautiful buttons and finishing. However, no shirt in the US or UK has the handwork of a Borrelli. Generally, you will only find the same handwork on an Italian shirt. I understand that you can order one at a time, therefore, you can try one as an experiment. They start at about $250.
     


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