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Incotex trousers don't fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by newyorknoir, Jan 1, 2013.

  1. newyorknoir

    newyorknoir Senior member

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    I'm pretty skinny, 32 waist, and am having trouble finding chinos and slacks to wear with a new navy Isaia sportcoat. The only Incotex trousers that fit are the Chino Lino line, but those are a linen blend and aren't really appropriate for business, at least in New York. Even the made in Italy $700 wool slacks from Incotex, which tend to run trimmer, just aren't right in the crotch region, I think because my thighs are not big enough to fill them out properly. I'm sort of freaking out that I won't be able to find a high quality trouser that will fit. I would do Dior Homme but their collections are limited to runway and rarely get a basic trouser in. Do I have to just go with a J. Crew bowery fit chino, or do I have any other options? Brooks Bros milano fits me well but the non-iron is too shiny and the all-year twill texture just looks sort of cheap in my opinion—which brings me to another concern, will a J. Crew pant look mismatched with the Isaia sportcoat in terms of quality?
     


  2. coupas

    coupas Active Member

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    Try a MTM-service...
     


  3. Hans

    Hans Senior member

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    Get Incotex pants that fit in the leg and then have a tailor adjust the waist. Taking them in or letting them out by an inch or two is a pretty straightforward (and cheap) operation. I usually have this done when I get them hemmed and I pay about $20 in total.
     


  4. eluther

    eluther Senior member

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    If you live in New York and can afford Isaia, go to Mr. Ned and get some pants made. You'll need more than one pair.

    However, you have a myriad of options:

    • Buy Incotex pants and take them to the tailor. I'd recommend doing the opposite of what Hans suggests, though. Buy something that fits in the waist and get a tailor to alter the legs. Also, keep in mind, you might be completely wrong about the fit of the pants and they might look fine.
    • Buy another brand of $700 Made in Italy pants. Luciano Barbera and RLPL both suffice.
    • Buy from epaulet (conveniently located in NYC) or Howard Yount (here's there, too, I believe) or Panta (wait, that's NY, as well).
    • Buy from Barney's or Bergdorf. You can find wool pants there. The brand might not necessarily be something that's SF- or #menswear-approved, but you know, no one can see the tags.

    I would not stoop to picking up J. Crew pants if you have the means of getting something nicer. If you're wearing an Isaia sport coat you should feel like a million bucks and knowing your pants came from a sweat shop isn't going to do that for you.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


  5. minervau

    minervau Senior member

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    Regarding the earlier advice, I will say that Howard Yount's trousers are NOT cut as slim as Incotex, so I'm not sure I'd recommend that to the poster.

    I actually think one should find a pair of pants that fit through the legs (perhaps dropping down to EU46/US30 in Incotex) and then getting the waist let out to your waist measurement would be the best call. Getting legs slimmed is a lot more expensive and a harder operation than getting the waist let out, and most pants have 2" or so to let out, so a 31" can easily become a 33".
     


  6. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    :facepalm:


    The blind leading the stupid.
     


  7. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    32 waist is not considered skinny.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


  8. stant62

    stant62 Senior member

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    Depends on your drop.
     


  9. newyorknoir

    newyorknoir Senior member

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    I could take in the legs on a 32 but I think the crotch would still be off, no? It drops way too low on me.. In order for the crotch to end where it's supposed to I'd have to wear the pants like Urkel. I'm 5'8", which I guess is short, but not short enough where that should be an issue.

    I could try checking out a 30 waist (as mentioned) and seeing if that fits in the thighs/crotch, but when I try it on I won't be able to button the waist, so I'm not sure if that would throw off all the proportions and give me an inaccurate reading on the fit. Would that matter or no?

    Also, would [FONT=verdana, tahoma, arial, sans-serif]Barbera or RLPL really work? I thought Purple Label is a more conservative cut.. their jackets don't fit me so I assumed the pants wouldn't either, but maybe I'm wrong to think that..[/FONT]

    [FONT=verdana, tahoma, arial, sans-serif]Can I get a second opinion on the fit of Yount, Panta, and Epaulet?[/FONT]

    [FONT=verdana, tahoma, arial, sans-serif]I'm definitely going to look into MTM with a tailor but I would like to pan out my options before doing so.[/FONT]
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


  10. Spandexter

    Spandexter Senior member

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    I'm a size 30 and have both Epaulet and Yount pants. Both are slim and both are excellent quality. I like my Epaulet Walts a fraction more than my Yount solely because they seem to fit my skinny ass slightly better. I don't think you can go wrong with either to be honest and they both have a good variety of options.
     


  11. YRR92

    YRR92 Senior member

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    [​IMG], unless they'd actually be above your navel. Then that's too much rise. Otherwise, in my opinion, most men would look better with pants closer to their waist than their hips.

    If BB milanos fit you, why not go for those in a fabric other than the cottons you don't like? They have an alright selection. I suggest trying on Epaulet and RLPL rather than going by secondhand opinions.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most of the time this issue is more about your body shape than the trouser. In tailor speak you may have a high seat and need a trouser cut to match your physique.
    MTM sometimes gets this right if you work with an experienced fitter with a good eye and knows how to adjust for this. Hard, if not impossible to alter on RTW as it's the same as making an armhole higher. You can't do it. This is a good comparison. When an armhole is too deep there is a space between your arm and the armhole. Same as when the seat curve of a trouser is too deep. Therefore, you need a trouser cut with a high seat.
    One of the best brands in stores to fit this body type is Brioni.
     


  13. newyorknoir

    newyorknoir Senior member

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    Wow, great stuff! Very insightful.. thanks!

    now that I'm looking, I do notice that the Brioni trousers have a high cut in that area!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2013


  14. newyorknoir

    newyorknoir Senior member

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    New line of Incotex trou at Barneys... supposedly their trimmest cut yet.. I assume the chinos are made in Portugal... hoping there might be some charcoal wool italy... anyone try them out yet and can report on quality/fit? Will try to get there this weekend...

    Thanks


    edit: line i think is called incotex gold? hopefully better quality than ivory incotex.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013


  15. newyorknoir

    newyorknoir Senior member

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