Incotex pants question

[bobdobalina]

I am so totally lame for having to ask this:

I picked up 2 pairs of Incotex trousers from STP @36% off, paying $135 each, shipped. They arrived today, and after trying them on, I can't decide whether to keep them. They are the "Paul" model, made in Portugal.
They just look a little old for me-- a thirtysomething NY finance guy who is too poor to buy these things at full retail in a store.

The quality is all it's cracked up to be, as far as I can tell, but I can't decide whether to keep them because I don't know whether I like the fit. So:

Aren't these things supposed to be slim-fitting?
Is there any reason that the yoke seems so low?
Are they intended to be worn roughly on the navel?
In light of these questions, would I be better off going down a size and having the waist taken out a bit?

 

[rioni]

Sounds like they're perfect if you're going for the 80 year old Sicilian look.

 

[Montesquieu]

Their European cut pants without pleats (referred to as "slim fit" and "super slim fit") are very tight fitting. I love them.

I don't know whether US market pants are the same or different. I do know that the pleated pair that I tried at Neimans in the US fit in the waist but nowhere else. They were comical looking in the way they flared out below the waist. They were anything but slim. I wouldn't be caught dead in them.

Incotex in the slim fit cuts I get in Europe are my favorite pants. I own 9 pair, in fact. I hate what I tried of theirs in the States. My advice would be to send them back and find a place that sells the Incotex that you want.

 

[philosophe]

Re the idea of downsizing: The most important area of fit is the seat. The waist can be altered. If going down one size won't screw up the fit there (and most good pants can be let out a little in the seat), it may be a good solution.

Personally, I'd ask myself whether the fabric on these pants is really so much better than whatever else I could buy for about the same amount of money. If it is better, I'd order a size down and visit my tailor for advice. If not, I'd move on to other options, including slimmer-fit Incos.

 

[JR88]

I had a isimilar experience last year with a really nice pair of Incotex pants I found at Saks' Last Call sale. They were $150, or less. I tried them on in the store and they felt, and fit (I thought), fantastic. But then I looked in the mirror and I looked like a ballplayer from the '20s. Didn't take the time to figure out why, and I don't know what "yoke" means, but you may be on to something.

 

[a tailor]

this is the mistake most fellas make. picking a trouser by its waist size.
the correct way is to try on however many until you find the correct fit in the hips. after you find a good fit, take it to your tailor for a waist adjustment in or out.

 

[Dmax]

Incotex, just like many other trouser makers, manufacture several different models which fit very differently. I have two pairs of the Incotex "High Comfort" flat front model and they fit very slim with average to low rise, trim seat and smallish leg opening. I bought them at Saks so they were made for US market.

I am sure they have some models, especially the pleated ones, which fit a lot more generously and have higher rise which does not look good on trim phisiques.

You have to like the fit first, the construciton and the fabric are secondary. While some manufacturers only make slimmer pants, some like Zanella have more than 10 different lines targeted to a different shopper. It would be unwise to discount thhe whole brand just because one model does not fit you as others may.

I too ordered some Isaia pants from STP only to discover that even though they were flat front and made in Italy the fit was too full compared to what I was looking for.

My guess when OP talks about the "yoke" he means the rise measurment of top of waistband to the crotch seam. High rise on "odd" pants (not part of a suit) is usually associated with the geriatric look.

 

[Artisan Fan]

Their European cut pants without pleats (referred to as "slim fit" and "super slim fit") are very tight fitting.

They are quite tight which is why I did not pick up the Filene's pants when they ahd some.

Look for the Grant model which is more roomy. I think with this line, you have to go with the wool sartorial pants to really get the fine quality of Incotex. I think they make some of the best pants out there.

 

[bobdobalina]

The pants are going back, thanks.

And "yoke" is the word that I am (clearly) misusing to refer to the distance between the top of the waist and the bottom of the crotch.