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In search of the natural shoulder...

A.K.A.

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My quest for a new sportcoat and/or suit has been frustrating. My wardrobe consists of several Samuelsohn suits and odd jackets in Andrew, Austin, and Alton models. The Andrew & Austin models are too wide point-to-point giving me the dreaded Foo dimple. Although the Alton is more narrow, it still is not what I am looking for. The Greenwich model is too baggy and I have not tried a Gable long enough to make a judgement. As I approach 50 and have managed to keep my weight at 177lbs. at 6' 1" height, I think I must have lost some upper body mass in the past few years. My suits and sportcoats seem to swim on me.

I have tried on a navy Caruso blazer at Syd Mashburn in Atlanta, but the fit is too close, so close the lining bunches while sliding into the jacket. Ralph Lauren Black Label (also made by Caruso)lookes like Pee-Wee Herman's jacket. My wife laughed at it.

Today I visited Hickey Freeman in Chicago and tried on a sportcoat in the Beacon model. Very natural shoulder but the body is huge. I like the HF, but they are a line of goods in transistion. Their individual company stores stock suits in the Madison and Vanguard models which don't seem that special. The Presidential line is expensive and I can't justify its relative price.

Also, made a trip to my local Neiman-Marcus in Charlotte and tried on an E. Zegna Milan model, but the $1900 for a stock sportcoat and $2600 for an OTR suit seems too dear for what it is; however, it is the closest to my ideal fit. Yes I've read Jeffery's blog, and NM stocks mainline E. Zegna Roma and Milan models. I am not Brioni or Zegna Coutre money, yet.

My Samuelsohn retailer says that he could do an MTM Greenwich or Gable and have the armhole made smaller and less padding in the shoulder. My fear is that I won't be satisfied with the end product and then I'm out $1200 +.

Any suggestions on other lines to consider - must be fully canvassed- or do I just bite the bullet and go Ermenegildo Zegna?
 

The Gooch

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Try Polo (blue label)
I'd encourage you to try one on and see what you think*










*not fully canvassed (in more recent models) but I moved from Samuelsohn to Polo and must say I am impressed. It's all about the lapel roll.
 

emptym

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Why not try WW Chan?
 

comrade

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Try the Talbot model from Samuelsohn. It has a very natural shoulder.
Belvest has some models with a very natural shoulders.
Hickey Freeman, at least in their San Francisco store, have no garments with
true natural shoulders and some of them do
not fit that snugly. If convenient, you might go to New York
to Paul Stuart or WInston Tailors for MTM.
 

dragon8

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
You try Isaia or Barbera?

Originally Posted by chasingred
I second Isaia. Basically sounds like what you're looking for.

I believe that Isaia be out of the range that he's willing to pay.
 

TheFoo

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It sounds like the underlying problem is that you are having fit issues. I don't think divots are necessarily caused by too-wide shoulders. They appear just as likely to happen on too-narrow shoulders. I'm sure there is a good technical explanation, but I wouldn't be the one to offer it.
 

Cary Grant

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
It sounds like the underlying problem is that you are having fit issues. I don't think divots are necessarily caused by too-wide shoulders. They appear just as likely to happen on too-narrow shoulders. I'm sure there is a good technical explanation, but I wouldn't be the one to offer it.

I'd bet more on this as well.

Having just had a Samuelsohn MTM done, the shoulder is quite soft/minimal. It's not unstructured like a shirt jacket by any means but...
 

Spark

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Isaia Base S, Dustin, or Gregory models from current (red label) line.

Isaia Base S, Stuart or Scott models from older (black label) line.
 

MBreinin

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Sartoria Partenopea.

Mike
 

S. Able

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Originally Posted by comrade
Try the Talbot model from Samuelsohn. It has a very natural shoulder.
Belvest has some models with a very natural shoulders.
Hickey Freeman, at least in their San Francisco store, have no garments with
true natural shoulders and some of them do
not fit that snugly. If convenient, you might go to New York
to Paul Stuart or WInston Tailors for MTM.


Short of Isaia and Belvest, I would second the recommendation for the Sammy Talbot and Globe. Both have very soft shoulders. Instead of moving north in price by switching makers, first try Sammy MTM.
 

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