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In Between a Long and a Regular in a Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by New Shoes1, Feb 10, 2012.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Are you talking generally or just at the area around the top button? Does the skirt area of the jacket also need to be suppressed?
     
  2. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Are you suggesting this because the length of the jacket is too long or because of other fit problems these pictures show?
     
  3. dks202

    dks202 Senior member

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    Length is good, pants too long. It does look a little in the chest/waist. Check the lumps and wrinkles on the back at the shoulder blades, a little too wide.
     
  4. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm 6'2" and wear a 35" sleeve shirt. I gave up long jackets a few years ago and started wearing regulars. My favorite jacket length is 32" from TOC. If I wear anything longer it makes me appear to be older (I'm old enough already). Some RTW jackets are less than 32 and I avoid them. Forget Long or Short. I would focus on how long a jacket fits on you. I use my thumb knuckle as a guide.
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    32 from TOC? I'm about your height and sleeve length, I find 31.5" from BOC is what I like most...but that probably works out to about 33" from TOC. Any less than 31 BOC and jacket doesn't cover the rear end.
     
  6. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a fairly long torso and yet the 32" overall length works well for me. It seems to just cover my seat. Anything longer seems old now that I'm used to it.

    Look at mid-aged guys. The ones who wear shorter jackets will seem more youthful than the ones who wear longer and or fuller cut jackets and suits.
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting - here are a few pics of me in a blazer that I'm almost positive is 31.5" from the bottom of the collar...which again I think would probably put it at 33" total...sorry for the crappy pic quality, and I know there are no shots from the back, but would you suggest an inch shorter? I'm 30 y/o FWIW...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it is a good length on you. Unless you want to appear "fashionable" I wouldn't go shorter.

    I had this one made a little shorter. It is barely 31" overall length. It is fun for more casual outings. Younger guys frequently ask me where I got it. But my recent suit and sport coat I had made longer to 32" overall.


    [​IMG]
     
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I see what you mean - I think overall my style is a bit less casual as I never wear jeans, and I'm generally trying to seem older rather than younger as I'm in an office where I'm the youngest. Since I'm not going for "fashionable" at all either (part of my disdain for shorter jackets in general is that the RTW ones available now seem to be shrunken everywhere else too), I'll probably stick with my current length preferences - I currently have some things in the works at NsM, I had to get Mina to bring down the first one she made a couple of cms :)
     
  10. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mina is the one who made my jacket above. She insisted upon the shorter length. "Is a good on you" :)
     
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yea I figured she made that one - she acceded to my length request fairly quickly - I don't know if that's because I'm a new client and this was the first jacket she was making for me or if it's some difference between the two of us, but she's got a great eye...I will be sure to post photos of that one when it's done. I have a couple of jackets that are about the length of yours that I now consider too short to wear (really there are enough fit problems with them elsewhere that the length is just a contributing factor) but I will post a pic of them later just for comparison. For further comparison, here's a jacket that's slightly longer (I'd say about an inch longer than the blue blazer above - I realize that to really assess the length a full length shot would be best, but these are all I got right now):

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    Look for the body length and worry about the sleeves later. That being said, a regular in one brand is often a long in another. You're bound to find one that meets the right length.
     
  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Thank you, everyone, especially PSG and Umbelragazzo. Our heights and sleeve length are very similar and your dialogue on the subject was immensely helpful.
     
  14. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Generally, what is the proper BOC for a regular and long? Would a regular be 29.5' to 31' BOC? Whereas a long would be 31.5' +?
     
  15. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    i'm 6'2" and i have exactly the same problem.

    my perfect jacket length is about 31 3/4". at 6'2" i should normally be a touch longer, but i have a short torso and long legs, and so a slightly shorter jacket ends up being a bit more proportional. this is still a somewhat "progressive" length - most people of my height and build would probably go longer.

    as to whether i buy a R or an L, it depends on two things, neither of which has to do with the sleeve length. i find that on every "R" my tailor has been able to extend the sleeve enough.

    rather, what i look for is the button stance / position of pockets, and the depth (length) of the vents (i only do double vents).

    button stance: jackets with a high button stance (and pockets that aren't too low) are generally more forgiving of being shortened, so i sometimes buy "L"'s in such cuts and have them shortened a tad. a lower button stance jacket will look very off-balance if it's shortened too much.

    vents: similarly, jackets with deeper vents are more amenable to being shortened. if you buy an "L" without deep vents, shortening the jacket may leave the vents too short to look elegant. less of an issue for single vents, since SVs don't look elegant anyway :)

    you mentioned that you're a brooks customer. i find brooks (already not a favorite brand) jackets these days cut extremely short, so on the rare occasions when i pick up something there, i buy an "L" and find that i don't need to shorten it at all. hickey freeman is cut even shorter these days, while remaining somewhat boxy -- a very odd look.

    i really can't think of anyone that cuts a long "R" -- everyone seems to have gone quite short these days.
     
  16. pgmetcalf

    pgmetcalf Well-Known Member

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    I would say the sleeves look fine. Looking at the back of the suit, I reckon the length of the jacket could do with about an inch off the bottom IMO but it looks ok as it is; it's a matter of personal taste really. I'm not keen on any rolling of the trouser at the bottom, I like my trousers to hang straight when I stand up, but that's just me.

    I'm not sure of your budget for suits, but where I live you can buy a decent well-made off-the-peg suit for around £300 or around $480, but if you want to look good you will probably have to spend £100 or $160 having it fitted correctly. Here, you can get a full tailored suit from scratch for not much more. I just paid off my tailored suit the other week and that Cost £485 or $780. You can have a tailored suit for less than that on the Internet but to avoid disappointment you should really use a local tailor. That way, you get precisely what you want at the best possible fit and you can discuss ideas with the tailor in person; something you can't do over the phone or the Internet.

    Best of luck

    Paul
     
  17. Cylon

    Cylon Senior member

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    Samuelsohn offers Long and Semi long (same for short too I suppose but I have similar problems as you)
     
  18. laphroaig

    laphroaig Senior member

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    Great thread. I'm 6'1 and a bit, and I've had the same problem only a little worse because I'm also a 36 and a 36L is a non-existent beast.

    I just ran the measuring tape down the back of my jackets from BOC and they range from 30" to 31.5". I find the 30" jackets slightly unacceptably short but unfortunately they'll have to do. So far I've found my favourite length on an odd jacket is on a blazer that's 30.5 long but I think I would find it a touch short on a suit.

    All I can do is look through any and all 36R jackets I see until I see one that is longer than usual with shoulders narrower than usual, and those are very very rare. Sales people are extremely unhelpful in this regard. Most will claim a 36R jacket is fine in length when it's clearly way too short, and this is being told to someone who is used to wearing shorter jackets already because of necessity.
     

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