In Between a Long and a Regular in a Suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by New Shoes1, Feb 10, 2012.

  1. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Pictures of the jacket in question. Amazing how the fit looks very different to me in the pictures as compared to what I see in the mirror. Any thoughts on the length of the jacket or the fit in general? I know I have some new thoughts on the fit. Thanks.


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  2. phoenixrecon

    phoenixrecon Senior member

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    length is fine but it may be big in the shoulders... also you need waist suppression.
     


  3. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    This looks big overall to me.
     


  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Are you in a position to contemplate MTM? That would probably assist and perhaps buying one suit fewer over a period would make good any possible expense in that.
     


  5. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Regarding the shoulders: the shoulders may be the only thing that fit right. If I lean against a wall, my shoulder hits the wall firmly without any cushioning from excess fabric. This is a 43L; I tried to go down to a 42L and the lapels bowed out significantly because it was too small. I have a larger chest and shoulders compared to my waist, which makes the fit difficult.

    What jumped out at me most from the pictures was the excess fabric at the shoulder blades and the area under the arms, which is preventing me from getting any sort of a V. I would have thought this would have been part of the general waist suppression that BB did, but I guess not. Can this be cleaned up?

    Regarding waist suppression: the waist area around the top button is as tight as it can go without pulling on the button and forming an x. But I agree that the general appearance of the jacket is big.
     


  6. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Are you talking generally or just at the area around the top button? Does the skirt area of the jacket also need to be suppressed?
     


  7. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    Are you suggesting this because the length of the jacket is too long or because of other fit problems these pictures show?
     


  8. dks202

    dks202 Senior member

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    Length is good, pants too long. It does look a little in the chest/waist. Check the lumps and wrinkles on the back at the shoulder blades, a little too wide.
     


  9. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm 6'2" and wear a 35" sleeve shirt. I gave up long jackets a few years ago and started wearing regulars. My favorite jacket length is 32" from TOC. If I wear anything longer it makes me appear to be older (I'm old enough already). Some RTW jackets are less than 32 and I avoid them. Forget Long or Short. I would focus on how long a jacket fits on you. I use my thumb knuckle as a guide.
     


  10. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    32 from TOC? I'm about your height and sleeve length, I find 31.5" from BOC is what I like most...but that probably works out to about 33" from TOC. Any less than 31 BOC and jacket doesn't cover the rear end.
     


  11. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a fairly long torso and yet the 32" overall length works well for me. It seems to just cover my seat. Anything longer seems old now that I'm used to it.

    Look at mid-aged guys. The ones who wear shorter jackets will seem more youthful than the ones who wear longer and or fuller cut jackets and suits.
     


  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting - here are a few pics of me in a blazer that I'm almost positive is 31.5" from the bottom of the collar...which again I think would probably put it at 33" total...sorry for the crappy pic quality, and I know there are no shots from the back, but would you suggest an inch shorter? I'm 30 y/o FWIW...

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  13. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think it is a good length on you. Unless you want to appear "fashionable" I wouldn't go shorter.

    I had this one made a little shorter. It is barely 31" overall length. It is fun for more casual outings. Younger guys frequently ask me where I got it. But my recent suit and sport coat I had made longer to 32" overall.


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  14. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I see what you mean - I think overall my style is a bit less casual as I never wear jeans, and I'm generally trying to seem older rather than younger as I'm in an office where I'm the youngest. Since I'm not going for "fashionable" at all either (part of my disdain for shorter jackets in general is that the RTW ones available now seem to be shrunken everywhere else too), I'll probably stick with my current length preferences - I currently have some things in the works at NsM, I had to get Mina to bring down the first one she made a couple of cms :)
     


  15. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mina is the one who made my jacket above. She insisted upon the shorter length. "Is a good on you" :)
     


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