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I'm Making a Trip to English American Tailoring for a Suit. Advice?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HERCULES, Mar 10, 2011.

  1. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    That is good to know. I usually consider myself a very slim 40R but the jackets I'm bringing are unsized/untagged so I will insist that I wear a 38R.
     
  2. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    The other thing is that this will be my new staple charcoal suit and needs to be able to do CBD duty, so I'm not looking for some super-soft, curvy Italian number - just trying to avoid the boxiness I see in some of these default options.
     
  3. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    You are going to have to fight him if you don't want a very full break. "But people will see your socks when you walk."
     
  4. GHo

    GHo Senior member

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    KObalto - could you explain this so a noob can understand? - "Quarters are quite closed on the EA"? TIA
     
  5. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    It refers to the cutaway from the last buttonhole to the bottom of the jacket. Look at the way the Chan jacket had a nice curve from the buttonhole down whereas the EA has more of a rounded corner.

    For the record, I think HEPennypacker's jacket looks quite good other than the quarters.
     
  6. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    My suit from them has open quarters. You just have to specify so Elio doesn't go to his default cut. Looking at the options on the TJ website, as Prozach did, is essential.
     
  7. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    HP's EA coat isn't too bad, but I'd take the shoulders in a bit, rotate the sleeves and open the quarters. The Chan looks more fitted (not just slim). But I'd drop the patch pockets a half inch and lower the lapel roll, unless you prefer a 3 roll 2.5.

    Speaking of 3r2.5, have any of you guys gone to Everard's in DC? If I lived in the DC area, that's where I'd go. He offers mtm Hickey Freeman stuff, and he has a tailor on the premises who can do other little tweaks. He has a great eye for fit. I recommended him a few years ago to a friend, and he's been back for a couple more suits. It's probably more expensive than EA, but the workmanship is probably better and he sometimes has sales on the HF mtm.
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2012
  8. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hey guys - I hope this doesn't derail the thread, but since many of you are likely in the area, just wanted to make sure everyone knows about the DC meetup next month - check out the link in my signature for more details.
     
  9. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    I just got back from my trip to EA and I'd have to say that I had a positive experience and I'm quite confident I'm going to be happy with the finished product.

    True to what I expected based on this thread, he was opinionated about certain things, but I came prepared with a detailed list of what I wanted and stood my ground. It helped that I wore a well-tailored suit and was conversant in its measurements - especially so for things like fitting the trousers. He only pushed back a little on minimal break and sleeve length. We probably haggled the most about the length of the jacket (and he was probably right). Interestingly, their "house" cut comes with quite open quarters - they seemed fine in the try-on jackets - but he said that he always pushes for them to be closed when people come into the showroom.

    He definitely wants you to go with the bolts of H&S fabric that he owns and has hanging on the wall, which run $795. Some H&S bolts are on consignment and are $895 or $995. Anything ordered out of the H&S books is $995. This was the one place where I wavered. I went in wanting a heavier 13oz worsted, which would have come out of the books, but ended up with a ~10oz Super 140s worsted that was hanging on the wall. It felt really nice and it seemed worthwhile to save $200 on my first order. He had some beautiful fabrics on hand though and I was bummed that my needs are for a super conservative charcoal.

    Anyway, as I said, I came away feeling good about the process and suspect that EA will be my new source for workhorse suits.
     
  10. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Thans for the report. Please let us know how the final suit fits. I'm guessing you will be quite surprised at the break based on my experience.
     
  11. HEPennypacker

    HEPennypacker Senior member

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    I agree with all of that.

    Yeah I asked for 3 roll 2.5, but agree that the pockets could be slightly lower. Still, I really like the jacket (the latest stuff I got fits even better).

    Prozach, hope your order turns out well. Report back!
     
  12. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    I picked up my suit today.

    [​IMG]

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    I think it came out quite well for a first shot and with no alterations. The following are my personal critiques:

    • For being the most natural shoulder option they offer, it's certainly not a very natural shoulder. I don't like how the padding extends so far past the shoulder seam, which you can really see in the right shoulder. Next time I will have him bring the shoulders in a touch, which I think will help. The sleeve pitch is off, although not as off as it looks in this photo (slightly sloped sidewalk affected my posture).
    • The jacket could be slightly more fitted in the chest, but I think this is pretty good for a wedding, funeral, and civil servant drone suit. I am happy with it.
    • The back looks good to me. Wrinkling in the photo is due to excess shirt fabric.
    • The trousers are, in my opinion, perfect and the best-fitting pair I own.
    • The quality of construction is excellent all around, as best as I can tell.

    There are many more EAT/Tom James suits in my future. Please give me your thoughts.
     
  13. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

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    I think this looks very nice! I agree that the sleeve pitch is a little off, but that's correctable, and it's not that bad to begin with. Have you ordered more from Elio since this?
     
  14. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    Thanks! I have not yet been back although I am planning to go this summer. I've sent a couple other people his way and they have been pleased. My suit has certainly held up very well.

    Sadly (maybe not the best word) I have dropped 20+ pounds since I got the suit so I'm going to have to go back to the drawing board with fit on my next visit.
     

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