I'm Making a Trip to English American Tailoring for a Suit. Advice?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by HERCULES, Mar 10, 2011.

  1. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

    Messages:
    4,310
    Likes Received:
    78
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Don't return it. Take it back and let him him tweak it. The wind is making it very difficult to assess the suit, but the break looks way long. You should post pics w/o the breeze.
    Which shoulder did you ask for? They offer 3. The Super J Press has the least padding.
     


  2. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,030
    Likes Received:
    1,270
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2010
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    The point is that only a few things need to be tweaked to make the whole look right. Frankly, most of the commentary in this thread is worse than useless and ought to be ignored. It doesn't take any meaningful insight to come up with: "Dude, it looks off! Where's the slimfit and higharmholes?!?" If one can't explain his thoughts, perhaps one should be less aggressive in expressing them.

    I jumped on this bandwagon a little quickly, so I'll apologize to the OP for that. But here's what I don't like about the suit:

    The shoulders may fit, but personally they are way too structured and boxy for my tastes. I guess from a CBD perspective, the fit is on, but I don't think it looks flattering in the pics.

    The pants are breaking too much, but that's an easy fix.

    Overall, there is nothing slim about the suit. I don't want to specifically preach the SF groupthink that slimmer is always better, but from earlier posts in this thread, OP wrote that he wanted a slimmer fitting suit. If the tailor thought this was slim, I wouldn't want to see his idea of a relaxed fit.

    I'll echo the request to have this suit Foofed to see what some minor changes can do to the overall picture.
     


  3. HEPennypacker

    HEPennypacker Senior member

    Messages:
    312
    Likes Received:
    21
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2010
    Overall, there is nothing slim about the suit. I don't want to specifically preach the SF groupthink that slimmer is always better, but from earlier posts in this thread, OP wrote that he wanted a slimmer fitting suit. If the tailor thought this was slim, I wouldn't want to see his idea of a relaxed fit.

    Right, the OP said this on the first page:

    So basically, at every stop he wanted the suit bigger and I pushed him to make it slimmer. I tried to make it as slim as I could without making him too mad.

    By this standard, would foo and others consider the suit to be successful?
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    25,724
    Likes Received:
    3,386
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    NYC
    Could someone tell what is SO wrong with the suit? Ok, shoulders are very boxy but is the rest that bad. OP should pull up his pants.

    Interested in seeing what foo does if he foofs this

    Posted via Tapatalk


    well, here are my issues and I woud not trust them to fix it.

    1. Sleeves hang badly
    2. Collar is bad, it rolls, it's wide
    3. Shoulders/padding are bad, looks like the suit is hanging on a square hanger and the OP slipped into it while it was still in the hanger
    4. Center vent?? Really??
    5. Lapels are lifeless and I am being generous
    6. Is the left suit pocket higher than the right??
    7. square quarters?

    The pants can't be commented on really, but at a bare minumum they are way too long, which is the only thing that I would trust them to fix. You can poopoo (or foofoo) all this as "stylistic" but I would be willing to bet that an OTR suit would look much better on him than this. Again, all of this is assuming he is not some really weird size.
     


  5. lefty

    lefty Senior member

    Messages:
    9,633
    Likes Received:
    1,902
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2006
    ... but I would be willing to put up my own money and buy this guy an OTR suit that would look much better on him. Again, all of this is assuming he is not some really weird size.
    This. Most guys would be much better served going to three or four stores, finding the brand and cut that is most flattering and tweaking from there. These attempts at inexpensive MTM/bespoke never really work out. lefty
     


  6. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,855
    Likes Received:
    109
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Here they are, suit is a little loud by SF standards but not quite as bold IRL. I've toned down the accessories since to balance it out, but was having fun with it on its first appearance. I got the full open quarters and might tweak that next time. Divot-free and the back is pretty clean.
    Before making an appointment with Elio, I would peruse the Tom James website and see what options are available to you. Many more choices than most MTM.
    http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...ostcount=21889


    kobalto the suit looks nice.
    that lapel i like. the stripe follows the curve very nicely.
    they did a good job on your right low shoulder. but didnt allow for the right hip. well next time.
    the under corner of the sleeve vent shows. or is it because you forgot to button up?
    all in all nice for a m2m.

    OMG how long is that tie?
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    1. Sleeves hang badly
    2. Collar is bad, it rolls, it's wide
    3. Shoulders/padding are bad, looks like the suit is hanging on a square hanger and the OP slipped into it while it was still in the hanger
    4. Center vent?? Really??
    5. Lapels are lifeless and I am being generous
    6. Is the left suit pocket higher than the right??
    7. square quarters?


    I don't think the sleeves hang badly at all. Viewed front on, they are better than most posted here. No dimples or divots, and a nice gentle convex curve from shoulder point to wrist. However, viewed from the side, it becomes apparent there may be a pitch issue. There is some minor bunching, but nothing that can't be fixed easily.

    I don't see what's so bad about the collar, either. There is no gap to speak of. However, perhaps both jacket and shirt collar could stand to be taller. Yes, there is some roll behind the collar, but that is a seperate issue, minor, and easy to fix.

    The shoulder shape is certainly more square than I personally prefer, but by no means wrong. It's interesting that you note it looks as if the wearer/jacket is hanging on a hanger. To me, that actually captures a positive aspect of the suit. Too often, suits posted on the forum look as if they are gripping the wearer all over his body. That is not a good thing. Sleeves should look like they are hanging from the shoulder points.

    Nothing wrong with single vents. Again, I don't personally prefer them, but they don't make the suit better or worse in any objective way.

    I don't see a lapel issue. Perhaps I'm just not attuned to what you're looking at, but the only sense I understand "life" in a lapel is in the way it rolls. Here, the roll is not particularly broad, but it is not bad or wrong, either. Most RTW at the same price point will struggle to surpass it.

    I don't think one pocket is lower than the other. If you look at his shoulders and hands, you can tell he is leaning ever so slightly toward his right.

    The squared quarters are indeed odd. But, again, not unfixable. When re-shaped, the quarters will still be more closed than what is SF-fashionable, but they will not be wrong.

    It would take exceedingly little foofing to fix this suit, and it would all be real world doable. You're all nuts!
     


  8. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

    Messages:
    1,217
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2008
    Location:
    DC
    I really do need to post some pics of my stuff. Frankly, I think most of mine have turned out better than KoBalto's. Is there any way to post a picture on SF w/o having a photo hosting account? Can I post something directly into a post?



    HERCULES - Definitely want to see pics taken in a static environment before I judge.
     


  9. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

    Messages:
    1,217
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2008
    Location:
    DC


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,840
    Likes Received:
    2,053
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Can't really tell anything from that photo. Too dark, and the jacket isn't buttoned.
     


  11. HERCULES

    HERCULES Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2011
    HERCULES - Definitely want to see pics taken in a static environment before I judge.

    Sorry about the low quality pics. I'll try to get some other pics up soon.
     


  12. Beatlegeuse

    Beatlegeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,030
    Likes Received:
    1,270
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2010
    Location:
    Tampa, FL
    Is there any way to post a picture on SF w/o having a photo hosting account? Can I post something directly into a post?

    I use tinypic.com - you can upload a pic directly from your computer and it gives you a link to use for the pic, no account needed.
     


  13. HERCULES

    HERCULES Member

    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2011


  14. LesterSnodgrass

    LesterSnodgrass Senior member

    Messages:
    581
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
    Location:
    DC
    Do you hear that? I think it is the sound of tiny feet backpeddling in a pair of plaza last longwings.

    But seriously, a lot could be improved. I agree that well tailored OTR on a normal sized person is a better bet. Just my opinion, based upon my experience as a normal sized dude.
     


  15. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

    Messages:
    1,757
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2010
    Location:
    화곡동 - Seoul
    4. Center vent?? Really??
    My favorite jacket has a center vent. 1. On the subject though. Is yours still stuck together? Seems like it's pinching a bit. As for the arms, they don't look so bad, but they're clearly not cut to hang at your side. Look like they want to be at about 70 degrees. 2. Lapels are fine. 3. Are the pockets even? 4. Shoulders are wayyy too boxy to my taste (but I'm sure you've heard that plenty already). 5. Too dark to tell. Are you wearing your trousers too low, or did he hem them with too much break? He seems kinda old-fashioned, so I'm wagering it's the former. Final verdict. Lose some from the sleeves, address the trouser situation, take in the waist a bit and try to reshape the shoulder a bit if possible. It's never gonna be a slim-fit suit, but you might get it to something more like Mbreinan wears. EDIT: In defense of the naysayers, the first set of pics were horrible.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by