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I'm having sb, peak lapel suit made, and tailor suggested no lapel button hole

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ChazzR, Jul 23, 2006.

  1. ChazzR

    ChazzR Active Member

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    Is it standard to forgo the lapel button hole on a single-breasted, peak lapel suit jacket? He suprised me when he said it was. Thanks for the input, as usual.
     
  2. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No. Who is your tailor?
     
  3. ChazzR

    ChazzR Active Member

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    Mr. Ned. It was the son who said it to me. And I wasn't sure. I'm assuming it could still be added, is that right?
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm assuming it could still be added, is that right?
    Yes, very simple. The only possible complication -- and it is a small one -- is that somehow they have ran out of the thread in which the other buttonholes were sewn, and you can't find the same stuff or something close enough anywhere. This is not likely.
     
  5. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Absolutely not - tell him to put one in forthwith and cease talking nonsense.

    If he continues to refuse reject the suit.
     
  6. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    I agree. A lapel without a real buttonhole always looks unfinished. The buttonhole is one of the great stylistic details on a jacket (signifying, possibly, just about everything) and, at the very least, the absence of one makes me wonder about the tailor's eye (if not skill or work ethic).
    Of course, there are other options. I quite like this sb peak-label jacket with a simple hole for a pin (the site shows some nice sterling silver butterflies and flowers):

    http://www.sinner.jp/sample/bespoke-...9/img/01_l.jpg
     
  7. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    There is a viewpoint that a buttoniere spoils the fluidity of a jacket's peak lapels. My own tailor feels this way and I have had DOW/Scholtean style discussions with him over the inclusion of a buttoniere. I agree that it looks unfinished to me, but that doesnt necessarily mean it isnt an elegant look. All part of the Italian drive towards minimalism.

    He did manage to talk me into not putting the buttonholes into two DJs with a flat satin facing to see if I liked it with the caveat that he could insert the buttoniere later. I still would prefer the buttoniere but it's not worth it to have the lapel re-cut. Theres always a danger something will go wrong.

    One thing. I like the buttoniere because that's the way I am. There is the danger that multiplied 1000 times you get people mired in what's "traditional" over what looks great. I didnt like these flat buttons my tailor used on my sports jackets, but he sneaked a set onto one and everyone loves those buttons including some incredibly hidebound types. I was wrong because they werent the buttons I was used to, not because they were or werent intrinsically handsome. Be careful about letting rules trump positive or beautiful improvements.
     
  8. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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  9. pkincy

    pkincy Senior member

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    In accessible closets I have 7 peak lapel SCs or Suits. All have a buttonhole. 5 are DB and 2 are SB. One purchased last month.

    I also recall giving my Dad 2 single button peak lapel Canali's I bought in the mid 90's and recall both had buttonholes.

    However, it does peak my interest to own one without. As often as I wear a bouttonier it seems interesting to think of a coat with clean lapels.

    Perry
     
  10. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Just tell the tailor to put the buttonhole on the lapel. What an odd sense of cosumer service is being presented.
     
  11. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

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    i can see the points for and against the presence of the buttonhole. what about a single breast peak label, with lapel button-holes on both lapels (as in the double breasted)?
     
  12. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    what about a single breast peak label

    Oxxford does their SB PL with just one buttonhole.


    [​IMG]
     
  13. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    What does the suit look like? Is it very modern or very trad otherwise?
     
  14. ChazzR

    ChazzR Active Member

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    It's a bit lighter than the typical dark blue suit, with pin-stripes, fairly suppressed waist, double vents, not too much shoulder padding, flat front trousers, and slightly narrower-than-standard trouser bottoms. When he told me that no button hole was more typical, I was surprised but agreed to it. I think I will ask him to put one on though. I appreciate all the feedback thus far, the forum is always a tremendous help to me.
     
  15. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    It's a bit lighter than the typical dark blue suit, with pin-stripes, fairly suppressed waist, double vents, not too much shoulder padding, flat front trousers, and slightly narrower-than-standard trouser bottoms. When he told me that no button hole was more typical, I was surprised but agreed to it. I think I will ask him to put one on though. I appreciate all the feedback thus far, the forum is always a tremendous help to me.


    Yeah, on a blue pinstripe, that's probably the way to go. I've seen some more "fashion" suits in SB, with a peak, sometimes in more shiny fabrics, and I think those might look good w/o the button hole, but with a more traditional fabric, even with a modern cut, I couldn't imagine no hole.
     
  16. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    FWIW, I have two older suits w/o buttonholes and regret that decision. I thought it would result in a cleaner line and, to be fair, it does. But the eye still notices the absence of the buttonhole.

    I had SB peak lapel suit made earlier this year and had a buttonhole (and flower loop) placed and think it works very well.
     
  17. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I agree. A lapel without a real buttonhole always looks unfinished. The buttonhole is one of the great stylistic details on a jacket (signifying, possibly, just about everything) and, at the very least, the absence of one makes me wonder about the tailor's eye (if not skill or work ethic).
    Of course, there are other options. I quite like this sb peak-label jacket with a simple hole for a pin (the site shows some nice sterling silver butterflies and flowers):

    http://www.sinner.jp/sample/bespoke-...9/img/01_l.jpg


    What's with the jacket's fastening? It looks like two buttons roped together- or is that just for the photo?[​IMG]
     
  18. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    What's with the jacket's fastening? It looks like two buttons roped together- or is that just for the photo?[​IMG]

    You get that fastening more commonly on a 1BSBPL dinner jacket (my own dinner jacket has the same). It's traditional in that context... though obviously, not in the context of a pink jacket! Though the lineage is clear in some of other styling cues that are present.

    Whoever designed that pink jacket clearly had some fun and it's certainly an interesting item. I like it, though can't think of too many occasions I'd wear it!
     

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