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If you had to start over tomorrow...

fritzl

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
F., bespoke shoes are a bit more financially accessible where you live than they are in, say, the United States.

Would you still start with shoes if you had to pay for Cleverleys?


- B


Ok, after a cap of sleep.

I went to Scheer, Vienna in 1992, shortly before I ordered my first pair of entirely handmade shoes.

I was not willing to justify their prices(comparable to the English firms) and started looking for alternatives.

I regret, that I didn't walk in the steps of my grandfather and became a shoemaker.
 

Christofuh

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
F., bespoke shoes are a bit more financially accessible where you live than they are in, say, the United States.

Would you still start with shoes if you had to pay for Cleverleys?


- B



You can spare yourself the extra financial hit (stronger euro, duties and all that other related nonsense) by hiring a domestic shop of Perry Ercolino who'd charge you a highly reasonable $3800 per bespoke pair
devil.gif
 

koolhistorian

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Frankly, I am doing that! And doing in quality, not quantity)
a) Go bespoke with my suits and coats!
Suits: 2 grays 4 seasons, 1 summer weight (done), 1 navy pinstripe DB 6x4 (for formal occasions, here even a DJ it will look out of the crowd), 2-3 PoW for day wear (1 done, 1 in process),
Jackets and sport coats
1 4 seasons navy blazer, cashmere (done), 1 summer navy blazer (done), 5 sports jackets (2 done, 3 to go) - assortment of tweeds
Pants:
Drop the jeans, take corduroy for lesser temps, linen (or linen-silk) for summer - 6 each
6 gray flannels (different shades)
Shirts 2 dozens (including 12 FC, 12 barrel cuffs)
Buy only Northampton shoes! (and Martegani's when Ron is on sale)
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by fritzl
Ok, after a cap of sleep.

I went to Scheer, Vienna in 1992, shortly before I ordered my first pair of entirely handmade shoes.

I was not willing to justify their prices(comparable to the English firms) and started looking for alternatives.


Oh, come on: doesn't Scheer include lifetime recrafting?

When you wear Scheer, who needs metal toe plates?


- B
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Christofuh
You can spare yourself the extra financial hit (stronger euro, duties and all that other related nonsense) by hiring a domestic shop of Perry Ercolino who'd charge you a highly reasonable $3800 per bespoke pair
devil.gif


I'm counting on a global financial meltdown to lower the euro.


- B
 

Douglas

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Well, I think that all of us are converging on the point that George Frazier was making with the Tony Biddle example.

Very much agreed.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria
So, let me know ask a slightly different question: if we confined ourselves to RTW, we would probably come up with many different answers about what we would each choose if starting from scratch.

If you were to choose one class of item to start as a bespoke garment, however, what would that be?


Quoted since we took a bit of a detour there - wanted to be clear which question I was answering.

If I had to confine myself to RTW at this point, I think I would probably choose either Zegna, Isaia, or Pal Zileri for myself, as they make the jackets that seem to fit me best off the rack. However, the question is a good one, since if I really were starting all over again, and had to pick just 1 RTW maker for suits and sportcoats, I would probably take it upon myself to do a detailed study of a number of others. I have never even had the opportunity to try on a Caruso, or Borelli, or Sartoria, or really any of the brands I see on many of you guys. I've never felt a Kiton around my shoulders. Tried on a Brioni once, and it looked awful on me, but the sizing may have been wrong. In any event, I'd want to do a lot of work before deciding with whom I would cast my lot.

For my first bespoke garment, I'd do exactly what I have already done - start with shirts. Mainly because my neck size (18+) is just too damned hard to find off the rack, and impossible to find in any kind of fitted fashion.
 

Metlin

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Trousers are an interesting starting choice for bespoke, and I welcome comments from those of you have done this.

Let's say that a good pair of Valentini, Kiton or Borrelli are in the $400 to $700 range, but the basics are easy to find at sale.

Trousers from my trans-Atlantic tailor, who would cut them and have his tailor make it up, would be, oh, $1100 or so without VAT or import duties. Ambrosi might be a bit less.

I know of at least two American tailors who hate getting trouser commissions.

I am intrigued by this as a first choice in moving beyond RTW.


- B


Well, my problem is that I'm skinny but quite athletic, so finding clothes in which I don't look awkward is rare.

But not all of us would get bespoke at those price points, of course. My local tailor in Cincinnati can get me a good pair of trousers that look very flattering on me for about 200-300, with some very good fabric.

That said, I do find that as far as bang for buck is concerned, MTM kicks RTW's ass (i.e. cost-to-benefit ratio).
 

mkarim

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Originally Posted by Metlin
Well, my problem is that I'm skinny but quite athletic, so finding clothes in which I don't look awkward is rare.


I am the same way - skinny but athletic. Where do you get your shirts, casual and dress? I find that most are too generous for my (34") waist.

Thanks.
 

fritzl

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Oh, come on...

Exactly, what Mr. Scheer said...


Originally Posted by voxsartoria
doesn't Scheer include lifetime recrafting?

Yes. It's like owning an old Jag. One for driving and one for the repair shop...

@Vox
When you wear Scheer, who needs metal toe plates?


Nobody needs toe plates. I'm used to and I like them. Flushed or not.

Btw and in general: Never had problems with scratching wooden floors. Just don't happen(see exception). Slipping on the toe i.e. on marble floors should be the exception to the rule. Otherwise one should learn walk from scratch and rush to his orthopedist to correct his gait. Tongue in cheek is given.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
I would like to get rid of most of my ties (I have a lot of ties) and get a small selection of ones woven and made just for me.

Who would you use?

- B
 

voxsartoria

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^^^^ Good choice.

Here's DH with a couple of downtown hotties:

David%20Hasselhoff%20Coachelle.jpg


"You can ask...but you can't touch." Signed, Hasselhoff.


- B
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by R-H
I started building my business wardrobe a year ago.

What I would change:

3) More conservative classic clothing, less flashy items


Originally Posted by DocHolliday
Skip 90 percent of the tie purchases. At this point, I'd be happy sticking to knits and grenadines. I have boxes upon boxes of unloved ties, and each year they cross their fingers and hope Sartorial Santa will take them to a better home. But he never does. Sometimes, at night, I think I can hear them sobbing.

Originally Posted by Douglas
- Simple, classic ties. Solids, spots, no more loud colors (I'm embarrassed by how many Robert Talbotts I've bought). Add a few with texture, woolens, grenadines, and maybe 2 knits. Almost no stripes; I just don't like them. No prints. I think I could confine my tie rotation to 15.

Originally Posted by whnay.
If only RTW.

Ties: Rubinacci, Borrelli, and Drakes


Originally Posted by bmulford
RTW only - here's how I'd go...

Barba Black Label Ties


Originally Posted by Ed13
Things I would do if starting again.

1. Less patterns in ties and dress shirts. I find I prefer textures with solid colours better.


Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
I would like to get rid of most of my ties (I have a lot of ties) and get a small selection of ones woven and made just for me.

The common necktie is the most dangerous item of clothing. So seemingly inexpensive. Such a wide variety in sales and in the discount chains. So many colors, fabrics, patterns.

And yet, there is near unanimity that one thing learned...to be applied if one started over...is that basic is better, and to trade the number of neckties for the quality of each tie.

Does anyone feel differently?


- B
 

mdg137

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Im onboard with many of the sentiments expressed so far--

1. Fewer, better pieces.

2. Find a good tailor-- many very good RTW pieces can be made much better with the right tailoring.
 

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