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If you had to start over tomorrow...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Sep 29, 2008.



  1. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    If you were to choose one class of item to start as a bespoke garment, however, what would that be? My answer: shirts.
    I would say both shirts and trousers. Most RTW shirts fit me like a tent or have long sleeves, and RTW pants tend to have too many breaks for my liking. And RTW clothes in general seem to be made for folks built like spheres and diamonds (at least in the US). That said, I just wish that when it comes to bespoke (and MTM) apparel/fabric, there was more variety. I like colors and patterns that are a bit... spry, for lack of a better word, when it comes to my shirts. Given my complexion, most "classic" colors do not particularly look flattering on me, either. So, I end up getting RTW shirts and having a tailor alter them to fit me well.
     


  2. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why did (and would) you start with suits, B.?

    If I did things over, I would start with shirts because it is...well...the first layer, and would help the fit of jackets.

    Do the RTW shirt brands you list fit you well already, or do you get them retailored?


    - B


    A suit is to clothing as a house is to living. In my mind a well fitted suit is the cornerstone to any well dressed man. Plus, so long as you control your eating behavior they should last longer than shirts and ties.

    The shirts brands I listed fit well, Truzzi fits as good as my MTM from Charvet in Paris. Just wish they had better fabric choices...
     


  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I would say both shirts and trousers.

    Trousers are an interesting starting choice for bespoke, and I welcome comments from those of you have done this.

    Let's say that a good pair of Valentini, Kiton or Borrelli are in the $400 to $700 range, but the basics are easy to find at sale.

    Trousers from my trans-Atlantic tailor, who would cut them and have his tailor make it up, would be, oh, $1100 or so without VAT or import duties. Ambrosi might be a bit less.

    I know of at least two American tailors who hate getting trouser commissions.

    I am intrigued by this as a first choice in moving beyond RTW.


    - B
     


  4. bmulford

    bmulford Senior member

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    Trousers are an interesting starting choice for bespoke, and I welcome comments from those of you have done this.

    Let's say that a good pair of Valentini, Kiton or Borrelli are in the $400 to $700 range, but the basics are easy to find at sale.

    Trousers from my trans-Atlantic tailor, who would cut them and have his tailor make it up, would be, oh, $1100 or so without VAT or import duties. Ambrosi might be a bit less.

    I know of at least two American tailors who hate getting trouser commissions.

    I am intrigued by this as a first choice in moving beyond RTW.


    - B


    Trousers were the first bespoke thing I did. I brought in a few Valentini pants for alterations and saw some of the work-in-progress trousers that were making for another customer. I asked to compare the Valentini and bespoke.

    As it turns out the bespoke were just as well constructed. Looking around their shop, I saw they had 1000's of bolts from which to choose from. So I randomly picked out a few fabrics and asked them to give it shot. At $295 a pair it wasn't far from RTW prices.

    Upon receiving them, I liked them so much I gave them an order for 5 more, and have been using them since. Trousers are pretty easy, because there are limited options. Shirts and of course suits require more planning in my opinion.
     


  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    A suit is to clothing as a house is to living. In my mind a well fitted suit is the cornerstone to any well dressed man. Plus, so long as you control your eating behavior they should last longer than shirts and ties.

    The shirts brands I listed fit well, Truzzi fits as good as my MTM from Charvet in Paris. Just wish they had better fabric choices...



    I did the same thing as you: suit first.

    Part of the problem is that in Boston, at least, there are plenty of travelling Savile Row firms, but few shirtmakers who are here or travel here of any note (I guess Whitaker with Dege would be it). It is easy to get started in indivdualized suits and jackets, but hard with shirts. I imagine it is a bit worse in Atlanta.

    Obviously, if your life or work involves travelling often to a where the situation is better, it would be different.

    I know the New Yorkers are saying to themselves, "Why doesn't that idiot B. just hop on the Fung Wah bus and get his ass to Paris, Geneva or CEGO." I have no good response to that.


    - B
     


  6. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Trousers were the first bespoke thing I did. I brought in a few Valentini pants for alterations and saw some of the work-in-progress trousers that were making for another customer. I asked to compare the Valentini and bespoke.

    As it turns out the bespoke were just as well constructed. Looking around their shop, I saw they had 1000's of bolts from which to choose from. So I randomly picked out a few fabrics and asked them to give it shot. At $295 a pair it wasn't far from RTW prices.

    Upon receiving them, I liked them so much I gave them an order for 5 more, and have been using them since. Trousers are pretty easy, because there are limited options. Shirts and of course suits require more planning in my opinion.


    $295 is a no brainer...that rocks.


    - B
     


  7. nmoraitis

    nmoraitis Senior member

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    ...I would buy everything made of tortoiseshell!! No wait, that's LK.
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    ...I would buy everything made of tortoiseshell!! No wait, that's LK.

    [​IMG]

    - B
     


  9. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Trousers are an interesting starting choice for bespoke, and I welcome comments from those of you have done this.
    - B


    Trousers/shorts to me are the foundation of non-footwear clothing (jackets = roofs, shirts/socks = interiors), and so are very important to get well done (color, fabric, fit).

    I have 3 pairs of trousers and 4 pairs of shorts in the works by my bespoke tailor.

    - M
     


  10. NorCal_1

    NorCal_1 Senior member

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    Trousers were the first bespoke thing I did. I brought in a few Valentini pants for alterations and saw some of the work-in-progress trousers that were making for another customer. I asked to compare the Valentini and bespoke.

    As it turns out the bespoke were just as well constructed. Looking around their shop, I saw they had 1000's of bolts from which to choose from. So I randomly picked out a few fabrics and asked them to give it shot. At $295 a pair it wasn't far from RTW prices.

    Upon receiving them, I liked them so much I gave them an order for 5 more, and have been using them since. Trousers are pretty easy, because there are limited options. Shirts and of course suits require more planning in my opinion.




    who did you use in SF?
     


  11. bmulford

    bmulford Senior member

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    who did you use in SF?

    PM'd
     


  12. ginger84

    ginger84 Active Member

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    1) I would find this website

    2) I would be very, very intense about finding the right people to take care of my clothes. Tailors, drycleaners, shoe care, etc. I would scour citysearch and yelp for however long it took. Bad tailors = evil.

    3) I'd get my f---ing shoe size figured out.

    4) The lowest quality jeans I'd buy would be from Diesel

    5) I would not buy ties that are 15 inches wide. For that matter, I wouldn't buy ties that are more than 3.25.

    6) I wouldn't buy 2 black suits. Hugo ones at that. Sigh.

    7) I would walk away from any suit that wasn't vented/notch lapel/no pleats/2 button, with a slim cut, and navy or gray.

    8) I'd have CEGO make every shirt I own.

    9) I would never buy anything I kind-of-sort-of-liked.

    10) I would buy anything I loved and thought I would wear often, regardless of price.

    11) When something went wrong with my clothes, I'd point fingers. If something wasn't tailored right I'd take it back. If the buttons on my shirt were cracked post-cleaning, those guys would hear about it.
     


  13. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    - B


    I'd love to eat her turtle.
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I'd love to eat her turtle.

    How about her melons? She's vegetarian.

    - B
     


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