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If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Aug 1, 2012.

  1. Jackie Treehorn

    Jackie Treehorn Senior member

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    Make sure it's an evening wedding, then. There's nothing more gauche, IMO, than a daytime wedding calling for black tie. I've been to a few recently, and the grouchy, SF-influenced curmudgeon in me wants to assert that tuxes before 6pm are in almost equally poor taste as daywear after 6.

    W/r/t Manton's inventory, I want to second the motion that tweed be struck from the list for those who just can't justify it in their climates. I live in LA proper, and I can get away with true, fully lined, heavyweight tweed maybe once a year. The season for it is maybe a half month out of twelve, and with the way things are going, the window be shrunk eventually to about 3 or 4 days. We do have some cool nights every now and then, but tweed is such an oddity here that the occasion to wear it would seldom present itself, even if the weather momentarily permitted.

    I will add tweed to my "Things I Can Get Away With When I Become a Bestselling Novelist" list, alongside casual bowties, detachable-collared shirts, and spectators.

    I do own a few sportcoats that I would call pseudo-tweed, such as a linen jacket in outsized herringbone pattern, and a beautiful brown lightweight "tweed" by Partenopea that is sort of the fairweather, Italian approximation of the real deal. But I would boil alive in genuine Harris.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  2. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    but why not have both?


    +1 exactly. SAME AGE ZOMG!!



    pls to invite me to the first black tie wedding you make.



    i only have punch, but i would like to say it counts for your list, it raises my score.
     


  3. Jackie Treehorn

    Jackie Treehorn Senior member

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    True blazers -- the real deal, with the brass buttons and all -- feel like one of those WASPy, to-the-manner-born choices that only seem to look at home on those who've grown up in them. I mean, a good litmus test is this: did your parents drag you to a lot of events, as a kid, in which they dressed you up in a navy blazer? Did you have a club you attended in college or prep school, in which everyone wore blue blazers? Have you ever used the word "regatta" in an earnest, non-ironic context? If so, you're probably comfortable and confident enough in a blazer that nobody will notice, and it won't seem like a costume on you.

    Conversely, if you have never owned a blue blazer, and are contemplating one for the first time in your late 20s or early 30s, you'll probably never be fully comfortable with the look. It'll seem too fuddy-duddy and old mannish.

    I am speaking, of course, from the American perspective. I have no idea how commonplace they actually are in England, or Continental Europe, or Asia.

    In retrospect, this is probably the most FNB-ish post I've ever written. Ugh.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  4. JohnnyLaw

    JohnnyLaw Senior member

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    I'm going to dare suggest that the list should include a pair of good quality jeans. For younger guys (let's say under 40), there are many occasions where denim is the most appropriate thing to wear. I'd add a casual jacket to the list too (something military-inspired like a peacoat would work).
     


  5. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    This is opens up an entirely different can of worms: what is the list for 'well dressed MC Casual'? Obviously it starts with a faded Cal t-shirt and a pair of wine stained khakis, but what else?

    Here is my own list for summer wear:

    (2) Dark rinse denim, slim fit but not pipestem tight, minimal pocket stitching

    (2) White OCBD

    (1) Madras short sleeve shirt

    (1) Check or madras shorts (never worn with the above!)

    (1) casual khakis (think Billy Reid vs. Incotex)

    (1 pair) suede derbies (I can't do loafers) aka Dirty Bucks.
     


  6. Shod

    Shod Member

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    I score 5 out of these 14 as being genuinely required to be well dressed, 7 as useful but unessential, and 2 as "to be avoided".
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    You never think you'll need a dinner suit until you need one. When that happens, there is no halfway or make-do solution. It's either a dinner suit, or it isn't. So, yes, I think it is a must on the list.
     


  8. forex

    forex Senior member

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    What if one had everything on the list but chose to get rid of things that are not worn? For example FC shirts, I can't stand them and will never wear them.
     


  9. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

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    The things I don't have:


    My next big purchase is going to be a blue flannel jacket. I haven't decided whether to get a BlazerSuit or mid-gray pants for it. I will be wearing it to the office (argument for BlazerSuit) but think it's likely within 2,3 years I'll be in a business-casual job (argument for the gray trousers).
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  10. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

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    Manton's list is good. I think he's right.
     


  11. Mute

    Mute Senior member

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    I'm about 75% there, but then, I live in L.A. Not an excuse. Just the state of things.
     


  12. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    I hope this would be enough to earn me at least a grade of "B."
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  13. CYstyle

    CYstyle Senior member

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    -a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the coldcheck
    -mid gray flannel pantscheck
    -decent, non-chino khakischeck
    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacketTweedless, but San Diego :eek:
    -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suitcheck
    -a navy worsted single breasted suitcheck
    -a white FC shirtcheck
    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BDcheck
    -black stitch capscheck
    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)check
    -loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shellLoafer Hater
    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadinecheck
    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadinecheck
    -a plain white linen hankycheck

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)Got a blue one today
    -at least one linen suitcheck
    -at least one pair of brown suede shoescheck
    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's checkDon't even know what this is =\
    -at least one wool or cashmere tiecheck
    -at least one linen or linen blend tieneed some

    If necessary
    -A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoesNo black tie events
    -An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camelcheck
     


  14. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Given Manton's list, I think brown PTBs or captoe derbys should be included. IMO, people would often be better off wearing some kind of derby with their outfits than being forced to choose between the super causal (e.g. loafers) and considerably more dressy (e.g. brown or black oxfords). Consider some of the items already on the list - odd jackets, odd trousers, khakis, etc. Wouldn't these all be often better served with (non brogued) derbys in most social situations?
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  15. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm pretty well supplied on that list except for a navy worsted suit, and my grey worsted suit is on the light side to be a good funeral suit. So in reality, those are pretty big gaps, maybe the worst two things to be without on the whole list.
     


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