If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

[FlyingMonkey]

-a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
-mid gray flannel pants
-decent, non-chino khakis
-at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
-a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit
-a navy worsted single breasted suit
-a white FC shirt
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
-black stitch caps
-some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
-loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell
-a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
-a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
-a plain white linen hanky

For the "more advanced" players:
-at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)
-at least one linen suit
-at least one pair of brown suede shoes
-at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check
-at least one wool or cashmere tie
-at least one linen or linen blend tie

If necessary
-A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes
-An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel

Generally, this is good start as a list. It is of course subject to personal preference - for example, I don't do loafers, I think they are universally hideous. I'm also not a particular fan of blue shirts: I have one, but on the whole I prefer either white / cream (either plain or with subtle striping or grid) or pink / lavender. Unfortunately I have no need for a formal black tie rig, much as I would like to have the excuse the have it, and living in a very informal country like Canada, a solid black tie is almost never required. People round here go to funerals etc. in whatever they feel like.

I also have an extensive wardrobe of SW&D essentials as I am very much not an MC casual person. So khakis - no thanks. Usually, i's either suit (or at least jacket) and tie, or SW&D for me.

What's missing? I would also regard a country suit of some kind as essential in the advanced category - something in rustic colours, probably in a plaid or check. Plus a solid country boot of some kind. In fact, for me a brown brogue boot is perhaps the most versatile essential item, as it can be worn in several contexts.

 

[thinman]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I happened to stumble upon this thread again in a Google search. Let's bump it and ask a question on the way.

-a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold Check

-mid gray flannel pants Check
-decent, non-chino khakis Check

-at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket Check

-a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit No

-a navy worsted single breasted suit No, unless pinstripes count

-a white FC shirt Check
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD BIGCHECK, all of my current solid shirts except a single white one are blue
-black stitch caps Check

-some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you) Check

-loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell No

-a solid black tie, knit or grenadine No

-a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine Check

-a plain white linen hanky Check

10/14, not bad I guess 


For the "more advanced" players:

-at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both) Check, but it's a worsted flannel pinstripe

-at least one linen suit No

-at least one pair of brown suede shoes No, but is next on my shoe purchase list.

-at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check Check

-at least one wool or cashmere tie Check

-at least one linen or linen blend tie No, but will have soon


If necessary

-A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes No need

-An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel Check

Now for the question... I'm obviously lacking in the suit department. I only have a worsted navy pinstripe, a DB medium dark grey worsted flannel pinstripe, and a green with tan windowpane tweed. But most of the time, odd jacket or casual suits are more appropiate for me. Obviously, a grey suit is a staple and everyone should have one; but when money can't be spent carelessly and a more casual coat and tie approach is more coherent, shouldn't one prioritize what to get based on what he's going to wear most?

I'm just wondering because I still don't know if I should start my bespoke "journey" with a casual suit, a nice odd jacket, or a staple grey worsted suit (that I won't wear that often). Can't make up my damn mind...

The lack of a solid suit is a serious hole -- eventually you will need it, and that moment may arrive unexpectedly. You should rectify that immediately.

That said, it doesn't need to be bespoke if you'll wear it rarely.

+1. It's surprising how often I wear my charcoal gray suit and I'm an odd enough size that I can't just pop into the local menswear store and buy a suit whenever I need it. Every time I go to a funeral, or simply need a conservative suit, I'm grateful to to have found a well-fitting, charcoal gray suit at a Saks Off Fifth (by stopping in regularly and pouncing when I saw it). Buying it well in advance of the need has undoubtedly saved me money.

 

[archibaldleach]



-
-several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
-loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell

For the "more advanced" players:
-at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)
-at least one linen suit
-at least one pair of brown suede shoes
-at least one wool or cashmere tie

Basic: No blue OCBD but plenty of blue shirts. Brown monks, yes, loafers no. Everything else, yes.

Advanced: I definitely fail here, for now. All of these things are on my list, especially a light grey linen suit.

 

[HughJ]

I am missing one of the most ubiquitous items on the entire list: a white fc shirt. I had one from Brooks Brothers that I hated the fabric of so much that I only ever wore it once. I really should get around to replacing it.

 

[edmorel]



Here's what I have so far. Funny though, I still don't feel well dressed.

In the context of this threak, this is probably one of the most important comments ever made on this forum. I may expand as to why I feel that way, but I'm a bit busy right now. Anyone else, please feel free to say why I feel that way.

 

[Claghorn]

In the context of this threak, this is probably one of the most important comments ever made on this forum. I may expand as to why I feel that way, but I'm a bit busy right now. Anyone else, please feel free to say why I feel that way.

In life, the only people who ever truly feel well dressed are nudists.

 

[RDiaz]

In the context of this threak, this is probably one of the most important comments ever made on this forum. I may expand as to why I feel that way, but I'm a bit busy right now. Anyone else, please feel free to say why I feel that way.

Because what "being well dressed" means varies immensely depending on what each person does, how clothing blends with his own personality, and depending on the moment?

Plus, you could own everyting in that list and still put it together poorly, sloppily, or look like you are trying too hard, or a plethora of other things that would keep you from being "well dressed".

 

[Fuuma]



Basic: No blue OCBD but plenty of blue shirts. Brown monks, yes, loafers no. Everything else, yes.

Advanced: I definitely fail here, for now. All of these things are on my list, especially a light grey linen suit.

Heathen view:

I prefer keeping linen for sportscoats only and cotton for suits and/or SC. There's no way it is in line with any sort of norm and the only linen jacket I have is a wool-linen shawl collar dinner jacket so...

 

[YRR92]

Heathen view:

I prefer keeping linen for sportscoats only and cotton for suits and/or SC. There's no way it is in line with any sort of norm and the only linen jacket I have is a wool-linen shawl collar dinner jacket so...

Out of curiosity, what's your gut feeling on linen trousers?

edmorel, I think you've got something there. I have an idea of where you're going, but if you took the time to put down your thoughts, I know I'd appreciate it.

 

[Ianiceman]

What exactly are non-chino khakis? I thought chinos don't have to be khaki in colour, but thought that most/all khakis as the word is generally understood are chinos.

Also re blue odd jackets - one for warmth and one for the cold seems tautological to me. Do you really mean one for warm weather and one for cold?

 

[RDiaz]

What exactly are non-chino khakis? I thought chinos don't have to be khaki in colour, but thought that most/all khakis as the word is generally understood are chinos.

I think he's talking about cotton trousers cut like dress trousers.

 

[aravenel]

I believe there is a discussion on the khakis on the first page of the thread.

 

[Ianiceman]

Ah thanks R and A. I remember this thread when it started. Some interesting points and discussion. Was too lazy to check the first page. Cheers!

 

[aravenel]

No worries, several others had the same exact question.

 

[Caustic Man]

In the context of this threak, this is probably one of the most important comments ever made on this forum. I may expand as to why I feel that way, but I'm a bit busy right now. Anyone else, please feel free to say why I feel that way.

I can say that for me I am still in the emulation stage of dressing. I see things I like and I try to make pairings that are similar but have more elements that I personally like. Because I don't always know what works I sometimes hit home runs, sometimes I strike out on three pitches. But I do feel that I am getting better, generally speaking.