1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Aug 1, 2012.

  1. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    19,128
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    I've enjoyed reading and revisiting Manton's excellent list.

    I've seen some guys in more casual settings get by with even a stripped down version of this list and look great. When all the items fit well and coordinate it isn't that hard to do.
     
  2. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    

    I guess I have a decent wardrobe then.

    Missing:
    - Black cap toe. I really have no need for it but will eventually get it.
    - DB suit. Sold
    - linen suit. Not needed
    - wool tie
    - black tie rig. Not needed
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2014
  3. 89826

    89826 Senior member

    Messages:
    578
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2006
    Location:
    Santa Monica
    Self-serving drivel
     
  4. bha

    bha Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Location:
    Toronto, Canada
    -a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
    Blazer, sportcoat, or outerwear? What jacket does this refer to? I have the first two
    -mid gray flannel pants
    Can't see myself ever wearing these. Non-chino kakhis, colored denim and dark denim take the place of these. I find that anywhere mid-gray flannel will go, you can substitute a nice pair of dark grey denim, with only one exception: a navy blazer requires the flannel for sure. I have been able to pull of pretty much else with the nice (key word: nice) denim.
    -decent, non-chino khakis
    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
    Tweed looks horrible on me. Can't wear it at all. So have a few funky jackets but nothing tweed.
    -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit
    -a navy worsted single breasted suit
    -a white FC shirt
    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
    -black stitch caps
    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
    -loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell
    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
    -a plain white linen hanky

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)
    Have a DB suit, haven't worn it in years. The look in downtown Toronto really hasn't come back from what I can tell.. it's rare to see someone wearing a DB suit (although becoming slightly more common than a year or two ago)
    -at least one linen suit
    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes
    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check
    Does this include bowties? I have 'regular' ties in formal patterns/colours
    -at least one wool or cashmere tie
    Wool ties make me look like a hipster.. see tweed jacket above... can't pull off this look.
    -at least one linen or linen blend tie
    Same as above, although I honestly haven't looked around too much. Could possibly find something to fit this category.

    If necessary
    -A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes
    Will rent if needed. I hate buying clothes that I'll wear once every few years...
    -An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel
    Not black? I have a black one and it seems to suit most needs. I know it's not the best choice but seems odd to exclude it...

    Always thought I was pretty well dressed (and I get compliments often..) but do I really need the other items above that badly??
     
  5. Shpirt

    Shpirt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    81
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2014
    I live in a climate that does not allow for an over coat or a lot of tweeds...

    I wear suits and ties during the week - so I have a healthy collection of custom suiting in every color/fabric, as well as multiple black tie rigs.

    However, I don't have any DB suits - they just don't look good on me (so I guess I am not very advanced)

    I also don't know how a BD collar made it on a "must own to be well-dressed" list....I am very confused about that. I know that some BD shirts are decent looking and don't remind you of a Sears fire sale rack - but for the most part i detest BD collars and rarely see them worn in a professional or well-dressed causal setting. Am I way off base here?
     
  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    @bha, only you can tell what you need. The idea of this list is that you can always have what you need for pretty much any circumstance that requires classic menswear. Lacking something isn't meant to suggest you don't dress well, just that there are certain things your wardrobe can't do. Also keep in mind this is a classic menswear list so denim wouldn't come into play here.

    Mid grey flannels are key IMO for events that require a jacket and tie or even just a jacket but where a suit would be too much. You can wear denim with an odd jacket, but it does not have the same formality.

    I'm surprised you think tweet does not work on you; would be curious to hear more on this.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    @Shpirt, button down collars are on the list for times one is not wearing a tie. I think it is largely an American thing. I don't care for them either and think a moderate spread collar looks fine without a tie.
     
  8. Shpirt

    Shpirt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    81
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2014
    OK thank you - I thought I was missing something. I agree on the moderate spread collar too.
     
  9. Spark

    Spark Senior member

    Messages:
    444
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2009
    Location:
    Thereabouts
    Just saw this and remembered it from the first time around… I'll take a swing

    - a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold: 3 worsted 150s, hopsack, and linen with patch pockets
    -mid gray flannel pants: 3 pair, plus a pair of slightly lighter gray flannel jeans (surprisingly versatile!) and a pair in dark charcoal
    -decent, non-chino khakis: Yep, pile of incotexes in varying weights and shades of tan
    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket: Couple in brown,one in tan cashmere, plus two in different shades of gray
    -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit Bunch of these in solids (dark, mid and light for summer), plus a range of ones with stripes (pin, chalk, track)
    -a navy worsted single breasted suit: Yeah, one solid navy and a few in pins and chalks
    -a white FC shirt: Couple of these in Royal Oxford, plus a few light blue ones. Used to wear FCs a lot more than I do these days.
    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD: A pile of these in varying shades and materials and one BD. Not that big of a BD guy these days even though I grew up in them at prep school
    -black stitch caps: Absolutely. Don't wear black shoes that often, but these are "a mandatory"
    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you): Bunch of these: straight cap, perforated cap, stitch cap in shades that range from dark to mid-brown, but I generally prefer suede…
    -loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell: 2 in suede (different shades)
    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine: Yep, knit square end, knit pointed end, grenadine, wool, and satin
    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine: Both plus a pile of variations like the black version
    -a plain white linen hanky: Yeah… sort of falls in the Black Captoe category

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both) Not right now. I've had 4-5 in the past, but DBs can be tricky. Been considering another in one of these two fabrics recently… would probably go navy to start
    -at least one linen suit: Nope. Used to have one, but I really think the application scenarios for these is actually pretty limited. I'd rather wear my Solaro suit instead
    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes: 8 pair..and counting ..my favorite for shoes
    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check: 2 or 3 of these
    -at least one wool or cashmere tie: Around 12 or so in both wool and cashmere…maybe more, I'd have to count
    -at least one linen or linen blend tie: Yeah.. in Navy

    If necessary
    -A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes: But of course! Peak lapel, double vented with the bow tie i got married in years ago
    -An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel: Dark charcoal cashmere single breasted that's cut long, plus a came polo coat that is a seriously badass piece of outerwear but so damn warm its really gotta be freezing for me to reach for it
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2015
  10. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

    Messages:
    3,578
    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2011
    Location:
    Ontario
    Fun to do an update on this:

    Back in late 2012/early 2013:

    -a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
    -mid gray flannel pants
    -decent, non-chino khakis
    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
    -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit
    -a navy worsted single breasted suit
    -a white FC shirt
    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
    -black stitch caps
    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
    -loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell
    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
    -a plain white linen hanky

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)
    -at least one linen suit
    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes
    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check
    -at least one wool or cashmere tie
    -at least one linen or linen blend tie

    If necessary
    -A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes
    -An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel

    As of early 2015, I can now add the peak-lapel black tie rig (which I have actually had cause to wear - and on my rural island too!), the black grenadine, the (several) blue shirts (in both BD and otherwise) - although I still have more non-blue than blue shirts - and even some good non-chino trousers. However, I still have no loafers that I actually wear. I still can't stand them.

    I am will also soon take delivery of my medium grey flannel DB suit, which theoretically at least will put me into Manton's 'best dressers' category... and yes, I know, but allow me my small moment of satisfaction.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    

    Only if you want to be well-dressed. :D
     
  12. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,336
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
  13. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

    Messages:
    5,225
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2006
    Location:
    Chicago, IL
    ^^ Yes. I was being somewhat tongue in cheek in response to seeing a thread bumped after six months for one question. Context matters here and you have to consider the audience that the post was written for and the definition of well-dressed provided later on in the thread. Your wardrobe, while it may be fine for your purposes (and you should not feel pressured to buy things because they are on some list if you know you won't wear them) does not offer this flexibility. You may not need it (in the language of this thread, you may not need to be "well-dressed").

    Honestly the non-advanced stuff is pretty minimalist (2 suits, 2 sport coats, two pairs of pants, a few shirts, 3 pairs of shoes, 2 ties). It's hard for me to see that as excessive.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,336
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    The point has nothing to do with caring for clothes, which I'm sure we all do. With your wardrobe you are essentially required to wear the same thing every time. This is fine if you only wear Classic Menswear once a month or perhaps once a year. This is a Classic Menswear forum, however. They wear CM on a daily, or at least weekly, basis. Your wardrobe is simply not sufficient for people who are required, or choose, to dress in CM on a regular basis. You are simply not prepared to wear CM on anything remotely resembling a regular basis.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    http://www.styleforum.net/t/506804/ive-been-wearing-the-same-thing-for-a-year
     
  16. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,837
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
  17. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,336
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
  18. Thrift Vader

    Thrift Vader Forum Mechanic

    Messages:
    3,230
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2014
    Location:
    The upper east side.
    I get the feeling he is half serious, half testing the limits. which is healthy. only time will tell if he has what it takes to stick around and contribute. because if he does? he will feel good in the real world.

    Poking fun at the yawn inducing norm? i get it.

    rather than shrug him off. i wanna see what he's got. there Might be some unique style behind the fun and games.
     
  19. tdellaringa

    tdellaringa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    71
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2016
    Can someone help with the abbreviations? I'm just getting started.

    FC, BC, BD, DB - please advise.
     
  20. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

    Messages:
    2,467
    Joined:
    May 31, 2009
    Location:
    Frankfurt, Germany
    French cuff.
    Button cuff.
    Button down.
    Double breasted.
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by