If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

[patrickBOOTH]



I really don't. I had a DB Huntsman, but it was never right on me and I sold it. I like the way I look in one, and I wouldn't have a problem owning one - the right one just hasn't shown its face yet.

I don't usually lurk B&S too often, but had I known at the time that went on there I probably would have gotten it.

Very good list. Did pretty well on Manton's list except:
No SB gray or DB suits. The last ones were maybe '93. Ready for a DB, but not gray.
No solid black or solid navy ties. Solid ties are against my religion with the exception of solid silk knits and even then I only have a solid in olive currently.

Really, psg? No gray? You are an all navy man, huh?

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Im shocked you don't have a white FC shirt, a white PS, or a pair of black captoe shoes.

I am Mr. Black Shoes and I don't have a pair of black stitch caps. Next on the list. I do, however have black punch caps.

 

[TheFoo]



I really don't. I had a DB Huntsman, but it was never right on me and I sold it. I like the way I look in one, and I wouldn't have a problem owning one - the right one just hasn't shown its face yet.

Was the Huntsman made for you or picked up from someone else? In my opinion, DBs pretty much need to be bespoke to be right. They are just that much harder to fit than SB.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I think I remember him saying that it retailed at something crazy like $8,000.

 

[TheFoo]



I think I remember him saying that it retailed at something crazy like $8,000.

Wait, what? This was RTW Huntsman?

 

[dopey]



I think I remember him saying that it retailed at something crazy like $8,000.

Huntsman bespoke is in that ballpark, but a bit less.

 

[patrickBOOTH]



Wait, what? This was RTW Huntsman?

Huntsman bespoke is in that ballpark, but a bit less.

I could be wrong, but I thought it was RTW and that much. Crazy, I know.

 

[Threadbearer]



Spoiler

The discussion of black tie attire earlier started me thinking (always dangerous): for a majority of men in present day America, it is likely equally true that, as with black tie, they have no occasion day-to-day, week-to-week, or maybe even month-to-month to wear most of what we put on our well-dressed lists. The best personal example I have of this sad phenomenon is my friend who, at his father’s funeral, wore a seen-better-days sport coat, too tight trousers, and casual shoes because that was the best he could do on short notice. This gentleman, and he is a gentleman in every meaningful sense of the word, is a senior level Ph.D. scientist who, among other thngs, travels the world making presentations on behalf of the government of this country. He has a good income, as does his wife who also holds a post-graduate professional degree, a lovely home, two fine European automobiles and an envirobox, and insignificant debt. His wardrobe circumstances, he told me, were attributable to the fact that “scientists just don’t dress up.” In light of his funeral experience, however, he decided that he wanted some wardrobe basics and asked me to help. It was sale time at Brooks Brothers, and he said he liked their shirts, so I arranged to meet him there. I went early and picked out, with his personality and life in mind, the following from the upper end of the offerings on hand:
-one navy suit, 10 oz. worsted
-one medium-dark gray suit, 10 oz. worsted
-one navy blazer, 9 oz. tight weave hopsack
-one wool sportcoat, brown/black/gray check 10/11 oz. open weave
-two pair medium gray trousers, 9/10 oz. worsted
-one pair black calf punch cap oxfords
-one pair brown grain calf, split toe bluchers
The total cost, with sale discounts where applicable, allowing for the inclusion of several shirts and ties, would have been less that $5,000. I told my friend, and I submit to you, that with this “wardrobe” he could travel anywhere and do anything he might need/want to do, short of black tie, and always be well and properly attired. I gave him examples of life events that most every man in his position faces and explained the options he would have from the clothing I suggested. He understood everything and did not dispute anything I was saying. He expressed admiration for each of the items I had picked out, though I made clear that there were other choices available within the same guidelines. He then bought the sportcoat, two pair of trousers (one of the gray I had suggested and one pair of brown), and the black oxfords. He said that was more than he had ever spent on clothing but that he understood the gaps he was leaving and would think about the other items. That was about a year ago, and he’s still thinking. And he is still a gentleman. And I am still crying.

Terrific post. Useful real-world advice, such as this, is often lacking on these boards.

Incidentally, I notice that you did not include socks on your list. This does not surprise me.

 

[sugarbutch]



I presume the OP is assuming that one has a white-collar job and lives in a large metropolitan US city. like New York or Washington DC.

I don't know that you can make this presumption about the OP.

 

[in stitches]



has anyone mentioned
eggshell colour shirts yet?

not as far
as i recall

Was the Huntsman made for you or picked up from someone else? In my opinion, DBs pretty much need to be bespoke to be right. They are just that much harder to fit than SB.

Wait, what? This was RTW Huntsman?

i believe spoo has posted a few times, that he has never done bespoke before. so it was either RTW, or an ebay type kop or swap. there is a pic of it posted within the past 24 hours. happy hunting.

 

[MikeDT]



I don't know that you can make this presumption about the OP.

Don't tell me, you live in a large metropolitan city and you have a job that requires that you wear a suit and tie?

TBH most of the things that the OP suggests are completely irrelevant here, or can't even get them locally. FYI I'm a teacher in a rural Chinese state middle school, not even the headmaster wears a suit.

...but this is MC StyleForvm. not the real world. There's probably some peeps that would suggest that $5000 handmade shoes should be an essential part of every gentleman's wardrobe, and you're not properly dressed without them.

 

[Manton]



I'm in the "not gonna happen" camp for the loafers. Really, that's the only truly surprising requirement in that list. If anything, I'd venture to say that, were someone to ask me for a list of things defining the poorly dressed, loafers would come out right at the top.

Couldn't agree more. I pretty much think there is always a better looking option than a loafer. They just come across as somebody lazy who wants to look stylish.

OK, what do we replace it with, then? The black oxford is not negotiable. Since I have three shoes on the list, that leaves two slots. Or if you can think of One Shoe that does everything the black osxford does not, i am all ears. Brown bluchers are the closest thing I guess. The thing is, those are versatile, but not essential IMO. I still think the loafer, which goes from summer to winter and with tie to without tie, is a staple shoe.

 

[NakedYoga]



We have a ball season here, which is not nearly as lewd as it sounds. The largest and most glamorous are in Vienna (such as the Wiener Opernball and the Kaiserball). We have several here ranging from very elegant to hunter's ball, where traditional dress is needed.

Are you talking about an equestrian or foxhunting ball? I went to one recently with my girlfriend, and it was terrific.

I own a proper black tie rig, though not bespoke. I actually have two jackets for it -- a one-button, no vent, with shawl collar; and another double breasted with peak lapels. I'm pretty sure that I'm the only one of my friends who owns my own. Unfortunately I don't get to wear it nearly as much as I'd like to. The last time I wore it was last year to a good friend's nonprofit annual ball/fundraiser. I was one of probably 10 men out of several hundred attendees who was wearing black tie. I got several good uses out of it during law school, but lately it's just been collecting dust. You'd think that the industry I work in (legal) would have many events calling for black tie, but sadly we do not. I do anticipate wearing the rig on New Year's this year, though.

 

[NakedYoga]



I still think the loafer, which goes from summer to winter and with tie to without tie, is a staple shoe.

What about black loafers?

 

[Manton]



I presume the OP is assuming that one has a white-collar job and lives in a large metropolitan US city. like New York or Washington DC.

No, I am saying that if you don't have these things, you can't be well dressed in the tradition of classic men's tailored clothing, no matter where you live. If you have no need or no desire to be well dressed in the tradition of classic men's tailored clothing, then obviously you don't need any of these things.