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If you do not own the following things, you are not well dressed

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Aug 1, 2012.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    -a blue odd jacket. If you live in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold
    -mid gray flannel pants
    -decent, non-chino khakis
    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket
    -a mid to dark gray worsted single-breasted suit
    -a navy worsted single breasted suit
    -a white FC shirt
    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD
    -black stitch caps
    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you)
    -loafers in medium brown calf, suede or shell or else burg shell
    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine
    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine
    -a plain white linen hanky

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy worsted or medium gray flannel (the best dressers will have both)
    -at least one linen suit
    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes
    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check
    -at least one wool or cashmere tie
    -at least one linen or linen blend tie

    If necessary
    -A complete, well-fitting, correct black tie rig, including shoes
    -An overcoat in navy, charcoal or camel
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  2. porcelain monkey

    porcelain monkey Senior member

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    Rock on, Manton! SF has been great for the last week!

    I have struggled finding "decent non-chino khakis." Could you be more specific about what you think is best in this area?
     


  3. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I am a bespoke customer so obviously I am going to say that. In the past I have really liked Polo RL ready to wear pants. I have not bought any new ones in ages but I still wear several very old pairs. I think they are decently made and very well styled.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I so fail.
     


  5. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

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    Are flannel pants really necessary? I bought a couple from Howard Yount and realized that I much prefer the smooth finish of a worsted wool that can also hold a crease. What are "non-chino" khakis?
     


  6. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    everything but the tweed and the brown shoes. unfortunatly, I think this is not suffietient to make me well dressed. just to check off the list.

    I do have a gumby tie, though, which somehow you forgot to put on your list.

    keep the good stuff coming, Manton.
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Gray flannels are absolutely necessary. They look infinitely better than worsted with most odd jackets. Worsteds have a business connotation.

    Non chino just means, not like those sweatshop-made wrinkly things i wear on weekends and that I would never wear with a tie.
     


  8. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    If it helps, you are the best dressed person I know who does not own everything on this list.
     


  9. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thread title makes no sense. The contents of your closet are a state of being while being well-dressed or not captures a moment in time. I think this is meant to be a list of must-haves for the 'advanced".
    Comments below:

    -a blue odd jacket. If you iive in a two-season climate, then two, one for warmth and one for the cold: Got these, but I never wear the winter one (but I have two different summer ones)

    -mid gray flannel pants: Check

    -decent, non-chino khakis: I don't understand what this means - do you mean non-cotton; I do have a pair of tan whipcords so I will assume I can check this.

    -at least one funky (but tasteful!) non-blue tweed jacket: I am sure I have enough non-tweed jackets that one of them would be considered tasteful

    -a mid to dark gray single-breasted suit: yes if you count flannel

    -a navy single breasted suit: Yes if you count rough hopsack (dormeuil sportex) with patch pockets and brown buttons; may not be what you had in mind. I have an older one that is a bit shiny but it has peak lapels and hacking pockets and is probably not what you had in mind.

    -a white FC shirt: Check

    -several blue BC shirts, at least one BD: partial credit - plenty of blue, but no bluc OCBD

    -black stitch caps: partial credit. Mine are blucher (sorry, but that is all Alden makes on the modified last). On the other hand, I have bespoke stitch cap balmoral boots

    -some tasteful brown oxfords (exact configuration up to you): Check

    -loafers in medium brown or burg shell: both

    -a solid black tie, knit or grenadine: grenadine

    -a solid navy tie, knit or grenadine: grenadine

    -a plain white linen hanky: check

    For the "more advanced" players:
    -at least one DB suit, navy is best; medium gray flannel is next: Both, but I shouldn't double count my gray flannel, right?

    -at least one linen suit; check

    -at least one pair of brown suede shoes: check

    -at least one formal tie, e.g., a B&W shepherd's check: plenty of formal ties, but not sure if I have this exact one

    -at least one wool or cashmere tie: check

    -at least one linen or linen blend tie: check

    Here is what I would add.
    Overcoat in blue, black or camel.
    topcoat in tweed
    raincoat - SB or trench
    one chalkstripe suit - navy or gray; bonus points for DB
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  10. bellyhungry

    bellyhungry Senior member

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    My tally is above...
     


  11. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    again, everything but the tweed. I guess I need some tweed
     


  12. Jackie Treehorn

    Jackie Treehorn Senior member

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    This is a good threak, Manton.

    That said, the well-dressed man should own a bespoke codpiece, custom-fitted by a master codpiecesman. Its absence from your list is troubling, to say the least. Shall I assume you walk the streets unbecodpieced? I shudder at the thought.
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Foo, you probably come out OK:

    You don't have a blazer but you do that have blue donegal which is close enough.
    Maybe you don't have khakis?
    Shoes of course are another matter but you have black oxfords, though punch cap, which is close enough.
    The one shoe can do the work of the loafters, though your lack of any summer shoe is a problem
    Ditto re: the brown oxfords
    You must have a solid navy tie???
    probably no black tie and no white hank, though

    The rest of the top list you have.

    As to the bottom, check on the DB gray flannel
    No on the linen suit but that's just because you haven't gotten around to it yet
    I realize brown suede shoes will never happen
    I know you have a formal tie
    Surely you have at least one wool/cash and one linen tie?
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2012


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    1) Scrub black and I agree
    2) Really, not even necssary for the advanced. Purely discretionary.
    3) yes
    4) I think this one is discretionary too.
     


  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You are right on (1), probably should have written charcoal instead of black. In any event, I don't have black or gray - mine are blue and camel.
     


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