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If you could only have ONE brown tweed'ish sport coat...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kaplan, Sep 26, 2012.

  1. inimitable

    inimitable Senior member

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    Nicest thing i've seen in a while on this forum
     
  2. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't. The pic I took of the fabric swatch didn't have that info. But, it is a heavy wool cashmere blend. Similar to a weight you might choose for a winter top coat/ overcoat. I was looking for something to wear on cold days in the fall/winter with a scarf and jeans or flannels. I was inspired by fabrics found on an Arny's of Paris Forester and some old Hollywood pics of David Niven but in a trimmer cut with odd jacket proportions.
     
  3. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I have a jacket made of a medium brown, herringbone donegal from a W. Bill book. I really enjoy it. Got it in the config Trini suggested.

    The fabric's lighter in color than the pic in the OP and very soft. I thought it was lambswool. The weight was 14 oz iirc. The book has many shades and is well worth a look imho. I think Slewfoot has a suit made in a dark brown tweed from that book.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2012
  4. sullivan025

    sullivan025 Senior member

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    If ypur're patient enough to shop around ebay you'll find some nice items there, I bought a vintage grey harris tweed for about $30 dollars
     
  5. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Ah, ok. That sounds too heavy for what I want. From talking to Parker about his experience with Glenroyal (430g) I'll be wanting something lighter. From what I've seen of your coat so far it does look great though.


    Sounds nice. Are there any pics of this floating around?
     
  6. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ^Yep. They were posted in the Chan thread and the Tailors' Thread, but here they are too: Full body shots of the brown/tan one:
    Closeup of the fabric:
    [​IMG]
    Here's a green herringbone Donegal from the same W. Bill book:
    [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]
    Here's Slewfoot's dark brown one. Hope he doesn't mind my posting it:
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  7. mercretas

    mercretas Well-Known Member

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    It's been said before, but bears repeating - this is a fantastic look. Everything about it is great. I appreciate all the detail shots.
     
  8. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Thanks for posting those. Are you happy with the fabric or would you choose differently given your experience with these?
     
  9. forex

    forex Senior member

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    I have the brown herringbone emptym has and while I like it a lot, I would not choose it as my only brown tweed sport coat. Maybe you should look into Moonbeam or Breanish to get something lighter so that you can wear it 6-7 months a year.
     
  10. Kaplan

    Kaplan Senior member

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    Isn't 14 oz at the lighter end of tweed? I'm certainly after something that's not too heavy or warm wearing; interested in how low you can go, while still resembling some guts and 'tweediness' to the cloth. I'll have to look at samples eventually, but it's very educational to hear about peoples experiences here as well. Thanks all!

    Btw, I considered a donegal herringbone for a while, but I feel a basic plain herringbone is more what I'm looking for.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2012
  11. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Well,you also need to take into consideration the type of weave. Shetlands are different from cheviots, I have a 22 oz cheviot that wears just as warm as the 14 oz shetland. Moonbeam and lambswool have softer hand if that's what you are after, they are both under 14 oz (think around 12-13 oz).
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I love the fabric. I have two and would get all the colors they had if finances permitted and I lived somewhere colder.

    The weight is perfect to me, living in SF, great for anything below 60 F or so, depending on wind, etc.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Stay tuned for a definitive brown herringbone tweed showdown.

    I have these swatches coming. Will take a matchup picture in natural lighting


    -Abraham Moon
    -Lovat x London Lounge
    -Harrisons Moonbeam
    -Harrisons Saltire
    -Porter & Harding Glenroyal
    -Porter & Harding Hartwist
    -Bateman & Ogden Glenhunt
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Brown herringbone shootout:


    First column: Moon lambswool, Moon lambswool, Moon lambswool, Marling & Evans lambswool (all way too soft for my tastes)
    Second column: Moon shetland, Moon shetland, Moon shetland, Moon shetland, Moon shetland, P&H Hartwist
    Third column: Harrisons Moonbeam, Harrisons Saltire, P&H Glenroyal



    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Semi-Finalists (clockwise):

    P&H Glenroyal, P&H Hartwist, Abraham Moon shetland, Abraham Moon shetland (laid on top of the London Lounge shetland I already own)

    [​IMG]



    Finalists (clockwise):

    P&H Glenroyal, P&H Hartwist, Abraham Moon shetland (laid on top of the London Lounge shetland I already own)


    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  15. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I like the AM shetland best
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Same here.
     
  17. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Interesting that you say that. It's also the most cost effective cloth at $15/yard. :slayer:

    I got my final package of brown tweed samples in today. Took forever.

    I'll reshoot tomorrow afternoon. A nice Harris tweed and Alsport tweed in there that are the same color as the AM shetland.



     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2014
  18. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    SOLD.
     
  19. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

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    I like the P&H Hartwist much more than the others.
     

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