If price is equal, always go custom/mtm V. OTR for suiting?? also is there a combo custom/mtm?

[pg600rr]

I am looking to revamp my suiting collection, I have a fairly normal body (6' 180 lbs. athletic) so have always gone OTR with minor alterations (zegna and isaia while on sale). I am exploring what I would consider semi-custom as an option, the tailor travels to you, presents their various fabrics and options, does your measurements onsite, then sends out for the suit to be made. You then have a fitting, again with him in person and alterations are made if needed. While not exactly custom, it also seems a bit more involved then the mail in 'mtm' many are providing now online.

I was curious to get opinions as to if this would likely be better than going OTR? I cannot afford full custom, these suits would likely run me around $1500 (maybe slightly less depending on materials), and anything specific to ask this tailor in terms of the manufacturing?

Thanks much

 

[classicalthunde]

I am looking to revamp my suiting collection, I have a fairly normal body (6' 180 lbs. athletic) so have always gone OTR with minor alterations (zegna and isaia while on sale). I am exploring what I would consider semi-custom as an option, the tailor travels to you, presents their various fabrics and options, does your measurements onsite, then sends out for the suit to be made. You then have a fitting, again with him in person and alterations are made if needed. While not exactly custom, it also seems a bit more involved then the mail in 'mtm' many are providing now online.

I was curious to get opinions as to if this would likely be better than going OTR? I cannot afford full custom, these suits would likely run me around $1500 (maybe slightly less depending on materials), and anything specific to ask this tailor in terms of the manufacturing?

Thanks much

Will things being equal, with OTR you loose some agency in fabrics/details but know exactly what you are going to get. With semi-bespoke (MTM with an intermittent forward fitting like you've described) you gain the ability to customize but it the end product is largely an unknown

If you have a standard frame, and don't want anything too wild or out of the ordinary I would suggest OTR. Depending on the maker/retailer I think you would gain a bit more for your money due to economies of scale. If you have odd proportions (like me) or have a very specific vision in mind then you might want to explore the semi-bespoke route

I have done this sort of semi-bespoke before and it worked out well, I think you need to inquire if it is a 'forward fitting' which is a partially constructed item where you can still make the vast majority of changes (like button stance, lapel width, shoulders, sleeve pitch etc.) or if the garment is completely finished and you can only make the standard 'aftermarket' alterations.

What maker/tailor were you considering?

 

[pg600rr]

Will things being equal, with OTR you loose some agency in fabrics/details but know exactly what you are going to get. With semi-bespoke (MTM with an intermittent forward fitting like you've described) you gain the ability to customize but it the end product is largely an unknown

If you have a standard frame, and don't want anything too wild or out of the ordinary I would suggest OTR. Depending on the maker/retailer I think you would gain a bit more for your money due to economies of scale. If you have odd proportions (like me) or have a very specific vision in mind then you might want to explore the semi-bespoke route

I have done this sort of semi-bespoke before and it worked out well, I think you need to inquire if it is a 'forward fitting' which is a partially constructed item where you can still make the vast majority of changes (like button stance, lapel width, shoulders, sleeve pitch etc.) or if the garment is completely finished and you can only make the standard 'aftermarket' alterations.

What maker/tailor were you considering?

Thank you for the thorough reply, the name of the maker is Amin Standard, I do not know a whole lot about them other then he tends to travel to Philly, NYC, Miami and Boston every few weeks and I would be trying to catch him in Boston. I think he does suiting for a number of professional football/basketball players and some faux celebrities' like the recent Bachelor contestant etc. but several real estate agents here in Boston I know use his services. I am certainly open to other semi-bespoke providers, but would need to find one who makes trips to Boston for fittings.

 

[classicalthunde]

I have not heard of them before, so cannot comment on their work. I would ask if they own their own factories or if they use one of the major ones (Trands, Kutesmart/RedCollar, Munro, etc.)

I've used Hemrajani Bros before (they recently re-branded as Divij Bespoke) and they were the best of the MTM tailors I've tried (3 in total). Several people on the forum have used them before and they generally have a good reputation. They have their own tailors in HK that make their garments, so a lot of flexibility. I'm fairly sure they travel to Boston, but they are just starting to travel again post pandemic so can't be 100% sure.

I'm going to try Redmayne 1860 in the next year or two, they are run by Tom Mahon who is a former Anderson and Sheppard cutter. They travel to Boston and have a MTM+forward fitting option (I believe it is called the 'acclaim' service).

Both of those would be within your price point

 

[pg600rr]

Thank you for the suggestions, i will certainly check them out. I am not in any huge rush so can take the time to explore the options. I tend to be very picky about fit, and not being able to try on the garment prior to buying makes me quite nervous...even though I can certainly have further alterations done once it arrives, I am concerned about getting something I am not happy with and having no recourse (with OTR being able to try on first and get a general sense). Flipside is, I am very curious to see how much better semi custom would fit and feel, so need to make a decision.

 

[papado]

Thank you for the suggestions, i will certainly check them out. I am not in any huge rush so can take the time to explore the options. I tend to be very picky about fit, and not being able to try on the garment prior to buying makes me quite nervous...even though I can certainly have further alterations done once it arrives, I am concerned about getting something I am not happy with and having no recourse (with OTR being able to try on first and get a general sense). Flipside is, I am very curious to see how much better semi custom would fit and feel, so need to make a decision.

I'd be careful of places that clothe 'celebrities/athletes' as you'd be surprised how little those folks actually know about what they're getting!

As already mentioned, the tradeoff you have (which I'm dealing with now) is though RTW may fit well, you're limited in your fabric/deatils as to what is on discount for you to buy This is why all my blue suits have stripes...

If you fit into Zegna/Isaia then you'll probably also fit into something like SuitSupply which you can do a custom/made-to-measure program based on their RTW models you can try-on and get more exacting details to what you want. It won't be to the same level of handwork/finish as Isaia+Zegna but I highly doubt any of these other 'custom' places you're looking at can really replicate that for ~1500.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I am looking to revamp my suiting collection, I have a fairly normal body (6' 180 lbs. athletic) so have always gone OTR with minor alterations (zegna and isaia while on sale). I am exploring what I would consider semi-custom as an option, the tailor travels to you, presents their various fabrics and options, does your measurements onsite, then sends out for the suit to be made. You then have a fitting, again with him in person and alterations are made if needed. While not exactly custom, it also seems a bit more involved then the mail in 'mtm' many are providing now online.

I was curious to get opinions as to if this would likely be better than going OTR? I cannot afford full custom, these suits would likely run me around $1500 (maybe slightly less depending on materials), and anything specific to ask this tailor in terms of the manufacturing?

Thanks much

All made to measure qualifies as custom but not all custom is made to measure (Venn diagram time). Made to measure uses an already existing pattern and then tweaks it, within reason, to your specifications along with fabric selection, lining, etc. you can opt for something like a peak vs. notch lapel for example.

Bespoke, or what you may be calling custom, is an entirely different animal. The suit if tailored to your specifications and to your measurements. You define it from the ground up and the pattern is unique to you.

Obviously, you can imagine there is a significant price differential.

Honestly, I wouldn’t do the traveling tailor thing. Nothing against them and it sounds like some have had a good experience with a select few, but it’s not how I roll. Take that for what it’s worth. Just another opinion to offer.

I would ask the salesman:
1) where is the garment made
2) do you work with a particular tailor exclusively
3) what is your role other than taking measurements (I doubt he’s the tailor unless he actually is)
4) where is the suit manufactured.
5) what about future alterations? (Weight loss/gain
6) recourse should the suit come back looking like ****.

$1500 sounds like a bargain but you also get what you pay for.

 

[pg600rr]

thank you this is all very good information

 

[bdavro23]

All made to measure qualifies as custom but not all custom is made to measure (Venn diagram time). Made to measure uses an already existing pattern and then tweaks it, within reason, to your specifications along with fabric selection, lining, etc. you can opt for something like a peak vs. notch lapel for example.

Bespoke, or what you may be calling custom, is an entirely different animal. The suit if tailored to your specifications and to your measurements. You define it from the ground up and the pattern is unique to you.

Obviously, you can imagine there is a significant price differential.

Honestly, I wouldn’t do the traveling tailor thing. Nothing against them and it sounds like some have had a good experience with a select few, but it’s not how I roll. Take that for what it’s worth. Just another opinion to offer.

I would ask the salesman:
1) where is the garment made
2) do you work with a particular tailor exclusively
3) what is your role other than taking measurements (I doubt he’s the tailor unless he actually is)
4) where is the suit manufactured.
5) what about future alterations? (Weight loss/gain
6) recourse should the suit come back looking like ****.

$1500 sounds like a bargain but you also get what you pay for.

Not to split hairs, but your definitions are a bit off. A lot of "bespoke" is done using block patterns. When people talk about a "house style", there is something consistent in the patterns that creates that shape. Measurement/ cutting systems demand that there be some rules.

The biggest difference between MTM and Bespoke is the limitations in the design phase and what can be changed. For example, if you have a low left shoulder, the best MTM can do is to adjust the slope of the jacket shoulder. Thats different than how a bespoke tailor would address a low shoulder. Smaller things too can be unavailable in MTM. Want a Smalto fishmouth lapel? Probably not getting that in MTM.

Anyway, sorry to be pedantic, carry on.

 

[bdavro23]

Will things being equal, with OTR you loose some agency in fabrics/details but know exactly what you are going to get. With semi-bespoke (MTM with an intermittent forward fitting like you've described) you gain the ability to customize but it the end product is largely an unknown

If you have a standard frame, and don't want anything too wild or out of the ordinary I would suggest OTR. Depending on the maker/retailer I think you would gain a bit more for your money due to economies of scale. If you have odd proportions (like me) or have a very specific vision in mind then you might want to explore the semi-bespoke route

I have done this sort of semi-bespoke before and it worked out well, I think you need to inquire if it is a 'forward fitting' which is a partially constructed item where you can still make the vast majority of changes (like button stance, lapel width, shoulders, sleeve pitch etc.) or if the garment is completely finished and you can only make the standard 'aftermarket' alterations.

What maker/tailor were you considering?

I have a MTM company, and this is the best advice. If you can find what you want OTR and it fits well, thats probably your best option. There are fewer things that can go wrong, and less ambiguity about what it will look like as a finished product. Its also usually cheaper.

If you decide to go with MTM, I would try to find someone who uses fitting garments. Basically, these are a size run of the base pattern in each of their fits that they use to fit someone. The idea is that you try on the jacket and trousers that come closest to fitting you and then observe what needs to be adjusted. Sleeve length, waist, etc are pretty easy to adjust for, but things like posture, balance, shoulder slope, etc are very difficult to alter once a garment has been finished. By using a fit garment you should be able to see these issues right away and adjust for them.

A final thought: you are always, ALWAYS buying the fitter. No amount of handwork in the stitching will make up for a fucked pattern.

 

[comrade]

I am looking to revamp my suiting collection, I have a fairly normal body (6' 180 lbs. athletic) so have always gone OTR with minor alterations (zegna and isaia while on sale). I am exploring what I would consider semi-custom as an option, the tailor travels to you, presents their various fabrics and options, does your measurements onsite, then sends out for the suit to be made. You then have a fitting, again with him in person and alterations are made if needed. While not exactly custom, it also seems a bit more involved then the mail in 'mtm' many are providing now online.

I was curious to get opinions as to if this would likely be better than going OTR? I cannot afford full custom, these suits would likely run me around $1500 (maybe slightly less depending on materials), and anything specific to ask this tailor in terms of the manufacturing?

Thanks much

You are in Boston. Have you considered The Andover Shop in Cambridge and Andover?
They are very trad in style. However, they are local and have being doing MTM ,and I believe
bespoke for a fairly demanding clientele for decades. There are great advantages to working
locally, I know from experience. Things don't always come out as expected.

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www.theandovershop.com

 

[taxgenius]

I have a MTM company, and this is the best advice. If you can find what you want OTR and it fits well, thats probably your best option. There are fewer things that can go wrong, and less ambiguity about what it will look like as a finished product. Its also usually cheaper.

If you decide to go with MTM, I would try to find someone who uses fitting garments. Basically, these are a size run of the base pattern in each of their fits that they use to fit someone. The idea is that you try on the jacket and trousers that come closest to fitting you and then observe what needs to be adjusted. Sleeve length, waist, etc are pretty easy to adjust for, but things like posture, balance, shoulder slope, etc are very difficult to alter once a garment has been finished. By using a fit garment you should be able to see these issues right away and adjust for them.

A final thought: you are always, ALWAYS buying the fitter. No amount of handwork in the stitching will make up for a fucked pattern.

I wish I could “like” this 100x