If I ran Oxxford . . .

[TheFoo]

A recent thread on AAAC got me thinking about Oxxford. I really want the brand to succeed into the future: nobody else in the U.S. makes a RTW/MTM suit even remotely close in quality. I just hate the confusing plethora of models. Many of them are unsuccessful attempts to mimic competitors and the sheer variety prevents the brand from establishing a strong aesthetic identity.

I would love to see Oxxford consolidate their offerings, reducing the available models to four or five, all sharing a consistent design language. They should promoting the American suit, not the American suit trying to look Italian or English. I wouldn't mind a revisionist interpretation of what it means for a suit to look 'American', so long as they establish a coherent, recognizable style that the label can be meaningfully attached to.

If you were running Oxxford and had the chance to craft a new American look for the brand, what would you do?

 

[Film Noir Buff]

I would rock it out with good, old fashioned mid-western quality.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I would rock it out with good, old fashioned mid-western quality.

Thank you for pre-******* my thread. But okay, I'll start:

1. Lightly padded, natural shoulders
2. Medium height gorge, medium width lapels
3. Dartless front.
4. Shorter double vents
5. Slightly extended shoulders
6. No spalla camicia attempts
7. Clean chest
8. Straight, narrow skirt
9. Open quarters
10. Shorter length

Think luxe J. Press.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Thank you for pre-******* my thread. But okay, I'll start: 1. Lightly padded, natural shoulders 2. Medium height gorge, medium width lapels 3. Dartless front. 4. Shorter double vents 5. Slightly extended shoulders 6. No spalla camicia attempts 7. Clean chest 8. Straight, narrow skirt 9. Open quarters 10. Shorter length Think luxe J. Press.
Are you trying to kill the brand right out of the gate?

Is this description, what Oxxford does today? If not then I think you're going about it backwards. If you're adding lines you do it with new designs. If you are consolidating lines, as you propose, you find out what you're good at; what you sell a lot of already and you chop everything else. You're already eliminating some customers, no need to confuse the ones you want to keep. I don't know what the stylistic parameters are for the main line Oxxford suits, but in all likelihood that's your starting point. Find out what your customers want and give it to them. I don't think that means undarted. Retrenching and reinventing at the same time is an ultrahigh risk strategy that will put you in bankruptcy 90 times out of 100.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Mark from Plano

Retrenching and reinventing at the same time is an ultrahigh risk strategy that will put you in bankruptcy 90 times out of 100.

I can't imagine that the current strategy of trying to do everything for everybody, but not particularly well, best serves the company's long-term interests. But you're right, the smart money would probably be on picking a few classic models that are popular with existing customers. My only concern with that approach is that those models, although popular, may fail to establish a coherent brand identity and capture new customers.

What I specifically suggested is really just fantasy.

 

[DocHolliday]

They're in a tough spot. They've really missed out on the '60s revival and Americana trends, in favor of chasing flashier Italian styling and the like. I tend to think they need to pull a Brooks Brothers and focus on their core strengths -- really mine the traditional catalog -- and maybe offer a retro, Mad Men-style model. But I'm afraid the moment for that is passing already.

I'd be curious to see who's buying Oxxford and what models sell well. I'd guess their core clientele is a rapidly dwindling demographic, so focusing on them might not be the best long-term strategy. But Oxxford can't afford to alienate them, either.

 

[Mark from Plano]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I can't imagine that the current strategy of trying to do everything for everybody, but not particularly well, best serves the company's long-term interests. But you're right, the smart money would probably be on picking a few classic models that are popular with existing customers. My only concern with that approach is that those models, although popular, may fail to establish a coherent brand identity and capture new customers.

What I specifically suggested is really just fantasy.

Well, I think it's more than a one step process. I really have no idea what their financial picture is, but if we start from your assumption that they have over-reached and need refocus the brand, then the way to do that is to reestablish your core. Once that's done and you've rebuilt the model, you can begin to refine it a bit more judiciously to gain more/new customers.

I wonder what the market is for a $4000 sack suit?

 

[instep]

Originally Posted by Mark from Plano

I wonder what the market is for a $4000 sack suit?
In a nutshell:

EDIT: actually, I think I am mistaken - think Thom Browne and BBBF.

 

[comrade]

I recall that when I lived in Chicago twenty years ago, the Oxxford
Onwentsia model was sold in the better shops. Not that I could
afford it at the time, but if I remember correctly, it was a very
high quality boring garment. I wore Chipp and Norman
Hilton then... traditional but with some flair, eg side vents,
nipped waist, but basically very natural shoulder. The
Onwentsia epitomized the Midwestern corporate boardroom:
boxy and bland. I am not sure getting back to this look
would work for them

 

[Xiaogou]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Thank you for pre-******* my thread. But okay, I'll start:

1. Lightly padded, natural shoulders
2. Medium height gorge, medium width lapels
3. Dartless front.
4. Shorter double vents
5. Slightly extended shoulders
6. No spalla camicia attempts
7. Clean chest
8. Straight, narrow skirt
9. Open quarters
10. Shorter length

Think luxe J. Press.


So, would this be American Rubinacci

 

[voxsartoria]

There was about a decade where I was a relatively active Oxxford RTW and MTM customer. Here's what I think:

Process:

I would focus on marketing MTM with the objectives of (1) keeping to price points lower than the retail for Italian high end RTW, (2) developing a regional sales force that would work with retail stores to ensure consistent and relatively high levels of training in measurement and fitting, and (3) modernizing the experience of purchasing MTM with things like online accounts for customers where they could track and perhaps even see the progress of their MTM garments. A lot of this might require investing your way out of a shrinking cul de sac. I would make personalized fit and construction both a brand identifier. In fact, I am unaware of any of the high end retail makers who make the concept of fit a brand identifier...I believe MTM can work much better than is typically the case, and that would be an excellent way for Oxxford to pull ahead, particularly in the North American market.

Product:

I would begin first with a line of odd trousers, which I feel are about the worst served segment of retail clothing. I would anticipate the inevitable turn away from lowish rise trousers and develop a distintive line of higher waisted MTM trousers, again with the presumption that there is investment in offering consistency of measurement and fitting and also transparency of process (even if only to enhance the enterainment value of being a client.) I would use the new MTM odd trouser line to work out and experiment with processes, and then move on to suits, jackets, etc.

Style and marketing:

What is the Oxxford look? That question has to be answered first. It is a question that cannot be answered today. I don't have the answer, nor do I find what I've read in this thread so far convincing. It might require fashion designer help. I have no idea. But, I do think there has to be a core look established on which there are the usual variations...much as was the case with Brooks Brothers until the late eighties. In fact, I believe there remains a big crater in the American clothing landscape left by the diminution of the Brothers Brooks which they have not filled themselves...nor will they given their price points. I believe that Oxxford and its parent company could make a decent run at this if they simply had the will and vision.

Do they have the balance sheet to make such an aggressive move? Maybe not.


- B

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Thank you for pre-******* my thread. But okay, I'll start: 1. Lightly padded, natural shoulders 2. Medium height gorge, medium width lapels 3. Dartless front. 4. Shorter double vents 5. Slightly extended shoulders 6. No spalla camicia attempts 7. Clean chest 8. Straight, narrow skirt 9. Open quarters 10. Shorter length Think luxe J. Press.
Rather think you did a pretty good job yourself. What do you have against KISS? Anyway, I was trying to make the thread cooler. Sorry if you feel all your hard work and research was derailed. One qualification for running Oxxford might be the capability to select more than one suit and sports jacket fabric.

 

[Cary Grant]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

There was about a decade where I was a relatively active Oxxford RTW and MTM customer. Here's what I think:

Process:

I would focus on marketing MTM with the objectives of (1) keeping to price points lower than the retail for Italian high end RTW


- B

What price-point are you suggesting? $2k? $3?

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Style and marketing:

What is the Oxxford look? That question has to be answered first. It is a question that cannot be answered today. I don't have the answer, nor do I find what I've read in this thread so far convincing. It might require fashion designer help. I have no idea. But, I do think there has to be a core look established on which there are the usual variations...much as was the case with Brooks Brothers until the late eighties. In fact, I believe there remains a big crater in the American clothing landscape left by the diminution of the Brothers Brooks which they have not filled themselves...nor will they given their price points. I believe that Oxxford and its parent company could make a decent run at this if they simply had the will and vision.

It's a good point - but I am concerned daily with whether or not this (filling the crater) can be achieved by a "national" firm without enormous investment. I do thing they'd need designer expertise to kick start it ala BB and Browne. But please, somebody who can define and sell a new classic america aesthetic and not something that might be forgotten as a fashion one-off.

I -DO- think this is achievable on a store by store basis. Meaning, create all the above in one store ala Saville row but then surround yourself with the talent to slowly expand into just key markets. A private brand that restricts itself to just a handful of key markets could do much to lay claim to a new American style given the shrinking clientele.

 

[AndrewRogers]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

There was about a decade where I was a relatively active Oxxford RTW and MTM customer. Here's what I think:

Process:

I would focus on marketing MTM with the objectives of (1) keeping to price points lower than the retail for Italian high end RTW, (2) developing a regional sales force that would work with retail stores to ensure consistent and relatively high levels of training in measurement and fitting, and (3) modernizing the experience of purchasing MTM with things like online accounts for customers where they could track and perhaps even see the progress of their MTM garments. A lot of this might require investing your way out of a shrinking cul de sac. I would make personalized fit and construction both a brand identifier. In fact, I am unaware of any of the high end retail makers who make the concept of fit a brand identifier...I believe MTM can work much better than is typically the case, and that would be an excellent way for Oxxford to pull ahead, particularly in the North American market.

Product:

I would begin first with a line of odd trousers, which I feel are about the worst served segment of retail clothing. I would anticipate the inevitable turn away from lowish rise trousers and develop a distintive line of higher waisted MTM trousers, again with the presumption that there is investment in offering consistency of measurement and fitting and also transparency of process (even if only to enhance the enterainment value of being a client.) I would use the new MTM odd trouser line to work out and experiment with processes, and then move on to suits, jackets, etc.

Style and marketing:

What is the Oxxford look? That question has to be answered first. It is a question that cannot be answered today. I don't have the answer, nor do I find what I've read in this thread so far convincing. It might require fashion designer help. I have no idea. But, I do think there has to be a core look established on which there are the usual variations...much as was the case with Brooks Brothers until the late eighties. In fact, I believe there remains a big crater in the American clothing landscape left by the diminution of the Brothers Brooks which they have not filled themselves...nor will they given their price points. I believe that Oxxford and its parent company could make a decent run at this if they simply had the will and vision.

Do they have the balance sheet to make such an aggressive move? Maybe not.


- B

I really like some of your old Oxxford stuff, but I'm not sure it would survive outside these forums or even this thread, which is why I suppose you are right when you say the question has no answer today

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Style and marketing:

What is the Oxxford look? That question has to be answered first. It is a question that cannot be answered today. I don't have the answer, nor do I find what I've read in this thread so far convincing. It might require fashion designer help. I have no idea. But, I do think there has to be a core look established on which there are the usual variations...much as was the case with Brooks Brothers until the late eighties. In fact, I believe there remains a big crater in the American clothing landscape left by the diminution of the Brothers Brooks which they have not filled themselves...nor will they given their price points. I believe that Oxxford and its parent company could make a decent run at this if they simply had the will and vision.

I might've missed the generational boat on this one but I never knew Oxxford existed before SF.