Ideal lapel size on a double breasted jacket

[panegyrical]

Another way to look at this is not to approach lapel width as a stying choice or a preference but as architecture. Is the shape, size and width in harmony and balance with the jacket as a whole. Balanced proportions are what create classic looks.
You wouldn’t choose doors or windows that weren’t sized properly to scale of the entire structure.
Have only ever made DB lapels less that 4” a couple times and they were on smaller jackets, 38” chest or smaller. Have gone as wide as 5.5” on a larger size and they looked right in relation to the entire garment.

Great points. I do have relatively broad shoulders and so I can see that it would proportionally look “right” on me. Ok - I’m going to go and try some on and see where I get to.

 

[Andy57]

This is very helpful. Thank you.

Pictures help!

You're welcome. The important thing, I think, it to remember that there is no single, right answer. Personal preference is a big factor, as is the style of suit jacket that you are trying to create. Go with what feels right for you.

 

[Roycru]

Picture taken on November 4th 2022 showing what an old Polo Ralph Lauren double breasted blazer looks like when unbuttoned.

Just took it out of the closet and measured the lapels. They are 14cm (5 1/4"). Try not to get a fabric that is a magnet for dust and lint like this Polo Ralph Lauren jacket is.

Have seen some double breasted jackets where the points of the lapels stick up higher than the shoulders of the jacket. These jackets always remind me of Longhorn cattle.

 

[panegyrical]

This looks like an incredible jacket.

I agree with the earlier comment about personal preference. I just don’t want to look unknowingly dated.

A lot of this is obviously about confidence and that goes a long way to really “owning” an outfit. But I am a bit deaf to those more subtle signals about style and, without overthinking this to the point of removing any enjoyment, I do want to just think it through.

You’ve all been incredibly helpful. Thank you.

I’ll post a picture when I reach my destination.

 

[panegyrical]

Hi all. I wonder if I can bother you again. I have been for a fitting and the suit is being adjusted. Keen to hear everyone’s views please. I’d be grateful for some more of your excellent insights!

 

[Despos]

Would have made the lapels a half inch wider.
Lower the button point. .75” lower.
As it is now it draws focal point to your mid section rather than your upper chest and shoulders.
Collar is falling back and pulling away from your neck.
Fronts are hiking up, need to shift the balance.
Trouser leg is so trim it makes you look top heavy and not balanced proportions.

 

[DorianGreen]

Would have made the lapels a half inch wider.
Lower the button point. .75” lower.
Collar is falling back and pulling away from your neck.
Fronts are hiking up, need to shift the balance.
Trouser leg is so trim it makes you look top heavy and not balanced proportions.

Exactly my thoughts, but was waiting for the knowledgeable opinion of a tailor.

Edit: The lapels are way too narrow, increasing the impression of boxy top, one full inch more would be the minimum in my eyes.

 

[panegyrical]

To what extent do you think that these issues can still be resolved at this stage?

 

[DorianGreen]

To what extent do you think that these issues can still be resolved at this stage?

I think at no extent, at this point, but maybe Despos sees it differently.

 

[Scott_ColmoreTailors]

Echo Despos thoughts. Albeit I would also shift the button point down further, I like a long lapel line on db's

Definitely wider lapels and let out the cuff too. Feels similar to the trouser in being too trim for jacket.

Only the cuff can be let out now.

That said, lapels, button point and to a degree cuffs could be considered a personal choice. If you are happy then be happy and enjoy it.

Regarding lapel width. I've always liked having lapels that are just over halfway of the distance to the shoulder seam when measuring along the gorge. I find it's a better just as it includes the proportions of the jacket. This is mainly for notch lapels however so I use the same rule and add on 3/4" to the peak too.

Hope that makes sense!

 

[Despos]

To what extent do you think that these issues can still be resolved at this stage?

Not sure what can be changed besides the balance issue but I wouldn’t worry about any of this. The suit will look fine when you wear it compared to a static photo. Getting a garment made is a process although a slower process by MTM method than getting a custom garment from a bench tailor. If this is the first suit you have ordered, you’re in the learning stage. Discovering what you like or prefer and what works for you.