I'd appreciate views on partially lined jackets

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by horton, Aug 24, 2006.

  1. horton

    horton Senior member

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    Are they only for warmer weather?

    I've heard people say they get caught on sweaters (if layering); is this true?

    Are they by necessity less formal?

    Do they drape any differently?

    Much thanks
     


  2. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Suitsupply-sider

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    I have a navy pinstripe from Oxxford with a partially lined jacket. It is good for year round wear here in Atlanta, but probably not Boston. I feel the extra handwork and resulting lightness add to the artisan quality and lightness/comfort of the jacket.

    I don't feel they are any less formal since the lining is not really in view. I think draping might be slightly better given the lightness but it really depends on the weight of the fabric.
     


  3. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

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    Love 'em.

    Better for warmer weather.

    Don't get caught in sweaters, but wearing a sweater with an unlined coat seems a bit incongruous, like a 3pc summer suit.

    Not any less formal and drape will depend, as AF suggests, on the fabric and construction. Some fabrics like Cashmere don't work well without a lining. Making an unlined coat is more difficult (and costly) than hiding unfinished seams under a lining so you rarely see cheap suits with unlined jackets.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Works best with heavier, yet porous, cloth. Light cloth will not drape well enough. Heavy, dense cloth will, but it will be hot, so what's the point? Mohair, fresco and linen are the best bets.
     


  5. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I thought linen with half lining was a bad idea? Hmm.
     


  6. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

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    I tried on a couple of partially lined heavier weight wool jackets (not sure why they had them in stock...but thought it would be fun) and didn't see the point.

    On the other hand, I have a mohair zegna that's only partially lined, and it's probably my favorite warm-weather sportcoat. For warm weather fabrics, I think they're great.
     


  7. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

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    I think partially lined is only for summer, I do have a cotton khaki suit partially lined and a blue cotton/linen hopsack blazer...
     


  8. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

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    I think partially lined is only for summer, I do have a cotton khaki suit partially lined and a blue cotton/linen hopsack blazer...

    For Boston (location of the original poster...if memory serves), I think that's true. In warmer climates, at least these days, I think quite a few allowances are made. My east coast wardrobe is quite heavy for Southern California, for instance, and I find myself wearing lighter fabrics and partially lined jackets almost year round (save for the few rainy/cool months of winter). [​IMG]
     


  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I thought linen with half lining was a bad idea? Hmm.
    Italian handkerchief linen maybe. But Irish 10 ounce or above works great unlined.
     


  10. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

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    For Boston (location of the original poster...if memory serves), I think that's true. In warmer climates, at least these days, I think quite a few allowances are made. My east coast wardrobe is quite heavy for Southern California, for instance, and I find myself wearing lighter fabrics and partially lined jackets almost year round (save for the few rainy/cool months of winter). [​IMG]

    You are lucky to have a yearlong summer ! [​IMG]
     


  11. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

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    You are lucky to have a yearlong summer ! [​IMG]

    It has some definite advantages. [​IMG]

    Although I do miss being able to wear heavier fabrics, layers and especially tweeds.
     


  12. AlanC

    AlanC Minister of Trad

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    I have some partially lined tweed sportcoats (Norman Hilton and Brooks Bros.), and I love 'em, although I don't know that there's a particular benefit to it. For summer wear the benefits are obvious.

    As for formality, partial lining is a trademark of Oxxford on even their most formal business dress.
     


  13. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Italian handkerchief linen maybe. But Irish 10 ounce or above works great unlined.


    I have a half-lined linen-cotton blend. It works there.
     


  14. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    When the fabric is heavy enough to drape without a lining (10 oz. fresco or 14 oz. linen), completely unlined jackets are cooler than quarter lined. You need to take more care to put your arms in the sleeves since there is no lining to help you slide through, but there is better air circulation around your arms on very warm days.

    Unlined jackets are probably only available bespoke. MTM tends to stop at quarter lining because no lining at all requires more sewing to finish the seams.
     


  15. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    I have a half-lined linen-cotton blend. It works there.

    Same. I also have navy borrelli half-lined jacket of what I'm guessing to be 7.5oz cashmere that is great. I love it b/c I really can wear it year-round.
     


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