1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

I'd appreciate views on partially lined jackets

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by horton, Aug 24, 2006.

  1. horton

    horton Senior member

    Messages:
    654
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    Boston
    Are they only for warmer weather?

    I've heard people say they get caught on sweaters (if layering); is this true?

    Are they by necessity less formal?

    Do they drape any differently?

    Much thanks
     
  2. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Senior member

    Messages:
    32,345
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2006
    I have a navy pinstripe from Oxxford with a partially lined jacket. It is good for year round wear here in Atlanta, but probably not Boston. I feel the extra handwork and resulting lightness add to the artisan quality and lightness/comfort of the jacket.

    I don't feel they are any less formal since the lining is not really in view. I think draping might be slightly better given the lightness but it really depends on the weight of the fabric.
     
  3. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,860
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Location:
    Toronto
    Love 'em.

    Better for warmer weather.

    Don't get caught in sweaters, but wearing a sweater with an unlined coat seems a bit incongruous, like a 3pc summer suit.

    Not any less formal and drape will depend, as AF suggests, on the fabric and construction. Some fabrics like Cashmere don't work well without a lining. Making an unlined coat is more difficult (and costly) than hiding unfinished seams under a lining so you rarely see cheap suits with unlined jackets.
     
  4. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Works best with heavier, yet porous, cloth. Light cloth will not drape well enough. Heavy, dense cloth will, but it will be hot, so what's the point? Mohair, fresco and linen are the best bets.
     
  5. Jovan

    Jovan Senior member

    Messages:
    2,533
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    I thought linen with half lining was a bad idea? Hmm.
     
  6. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    I tried on a couple of partially lined heavier weight wool jackets (not sure why they had them in stock...but thought it would be fun) and didn't see the point.

    On the other hand, I have a mohair zegna that's only partially lined, and it's probably my favorite warm-weather sportcoat. For warm weather fabrics, I think they're great.
     
  7. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

    Messages:
    5,166
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2006
    Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland
    I think partially lined is only for summer, I do have a cotton khaki suit partially lined and a blue cotton/linen hopsack blazer...
     
  8. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    I think partially lined is only for summer, I do have a cotton khaki suit partially lined and a blue cotton/linen hopsack blazer...

    For Boston (location of the original poster...if memory serves), I think that's true. In warmer climates, at least these days, I think quite a few allowances are made. My east coast wardrobe is quite heavy for Southern California, for instance, and I find myself wearing lighter fabrics and partially lined jackets almost year round (save for the few rainy/cool months of winter). [​IMG]
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,568
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    I thought linen with half lining was a bad idea? Hmm.
    Italian handkerchief linen maybe. But Irish 10 ounce or above works great unlined.
     
  10. lakewolf

    lakewolf Senior member

    Messages:
    5,166
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2006
    Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland
    For Boston (location of the original poster...if memory serves), I think that's true. In warmer climates, at least these days, I think quite a few allowances are made. My east coast wardrobe is quite heavy for Southern California, for instance, and I find myself wearing lighter fabrics and partially lined jackets almost year round (save for the few rainy/cool months of winter). [​IMG]

    You are lucky to have a yearlong summer ! [​IMG]
     
  11. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    You are lucky to have a yearlong summer ! [​IMG]

    It has some definite advantages. [​IMG]

    Although I do miss being able to wear heavier fabrics, layers and especially tweeds.
     
  12. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

    Messages:
    7,805
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America
    I have some partially lined tweed sportcoats (Norman Hilton and Brooks Bros.), and I love 'em, although I don't know that there's a particular benefit to it. For summer wear the benefits are obvious.

    As for formality, partial lining is a trademark of Oxxford on even their most formal business dress.
     
  13. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

    Messages:
    10,875
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Back in Black
    Italian handkerchief linen maybe. But Irish 10 ounce or above works great unlined.


    I have a half-lined linen-cotton blend. It works there.
     
  14. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    When the fabric is heavy enough to drape without a lining (10 oz. fresco or 14 oz. linen), completely unlined jackets are cooler than quarter lined. You need to take more care to put your arms in the sleeves since there is no lining to help you slide through, but there is better air circulation around your arms on very warm days.

    Unlined jackets are probably only available bespoke. MTM tends to stop at quarter lining because no lining at all requires more sewing to finish the seams.
     
  15. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

    Messages:
    17,933
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2002
    Location:
    Canuckistan
    I have a half-lined linen-cotton blend. It works there.

    Same. I also have navy borrelli half-lined jacket of what I'm guessing to be 7.5oz cashmere that is great. I love it b/c I really can wear it year-round.
     
  16. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    I think partially lined is only for summer...
    Didn't use to be. I have a number of winter weight vintage suits and jackets (and even a heavy wool topcoat) that are only partially lined.
     
  17. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

    Messages:
    7,805
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2003
    Location:
    Heart of America
    Didn't use to be. I have a number of winter weight vintage suits and jackets (and even a heavy wool topcoat) that are only partially lined.
    Agreed. My flannel Hickey suit is quarter lined as is my vintage Oxxford overcoat.

    VG, I'd love for you to give us a virtual tour of your vintage suits and other garments sometime. What all do you have in that closet of yours?
     
  18. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,860
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Location:
    Toronto
    ... so what's the point? Mohair, fresco and linen are the best bets.

    I would also add Bamboo. I have a partially lined Bamboo coat and it drapes beautifully and is light as a feather.
     
  19. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

    Messages:
    5,496
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    They're da bomb--fit better, look better, wear better, cooler. I wish Brioni and Kiton, for instance, would do more.
     
  20. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,748
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2003
    Location:
    The People's Republic of Galveston
    VG, I'd love for you to give us a virtual tour of your vintage suits and other garments sometime. What all do you have in that closet of yours?

    Alan, once again, the digital age has let me down. I managed to get the digital camera working for about 10 minutes, enough time to snap and download the photos for the chesterfield coat give-away, but it seems to have given up the ghost. As soon as the Vintage Gent family is re-digitized, I promise a pictoral of the collection.

    A few highlights:
    • Six vintage white/cream/offwhite dinner jackets (one more, I think, and my wife begins proceedings)

    • A suit coat made for the Hon. Jesse H. Jones in August 1941 (at the time, he was Secretary of Commerce and Chairman of the Reconstruction Finance Corporation)

    • A Brooks Brothers herringbone chesterfield coat from 1937, made for Col. T.H. Barton

    • hundreds of sport shirts from the 40s and 50s
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by