I think I'm going to try a Beckett and Robb Suit

[katabatic]

Crossposted from the Conrad Wu affiliate thread - this is an unstructured sportcoat in one of B&R's stock fabric (herringbone + windowpane - they stock it in a grey and a brown as well). Even though it's 40% cashmere, I'm still tempted to go back and have them make me a pair of trousers to turn it into a casual suit for occasional wear.

 

[jaywhyy]

I'm debating whether to try out B&R. I've wanted an unstructured jacket for quite awhile, but would prefer a more shirt sleeve shoulder with shirring i.e. more Neopolitan. Seems like B&R's unstructured jackets still have that ridge around the armscythe. Is there any padding in that shoulder katabatic?

 

[chogall]

B&R unstructured fit very stuff compared to those unstructured washed fabrics from Boglioli.

 

[katabatic]

I'm debating whether to try out B&R. I've wanted an unstructured jacket for quite awhile, but would prefer a more shirt sleeve shoulder with shirring i.e. more Neopolitan. Seems like B&R's unstructured jackets still have that ridge around the armscythe. Is there any padding in that shoulder katabatic?

Nope, there's no padding at all, and the jacket mostly definitely does not fit "very stuff" [sic]. Of course it's not going to be as soft (or as sloppy) as a garment-washed jacket. It's just not a spalla camicia or anything like that. I'd say it's a good choice if you want something unstructured that's not as sloppy as a Boglioli.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]

Kai - I'm curious on why you're not using a more traditional bespoke tailor any longer. I ask as your Raph suit looks infinitely better than the B&R suits (which are hit-or-miss, and, quite frankly, closer to the 'miss' end of the spectrum).

I know the Raph suits are 3-4x more expensive, but maybe buy those more selectively than all the B&R stuff?

 

[GBR]



My latest from Beckett & Robb:

Harris Tweed 3 Piece.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

One of the less good offerings- just does not look good.

 

[Kai]

I don't travel to New York City, Hong Kong, or London much any more. (Not often enough to do regular fittings with a tailor.)

I don't even know if Raphael is still in the business. He was pretty old when I saw him last. He may be retired for all I know.

B&R is convenient, and much less expensive, and I do like their work for the most part. The suits get picked apart here on SF, but in the real world, I get compliments on them constantly. The tweed suit above is a good example. GBR doesn't like it. However, the last time I wore it, I was complimented by 5 people, including 3 complete strangers.

Kai - I'm curious on why you're not using a more traditional bespoke tailor any longer. I ask as your Raph suit looks infinitely better than the B&R suits (which are hit-or-miss, and, quite frankly, closer to the 'miss' end of the spectrum).

I know the Raph suits are 3-4x more expensive, but maybe buy those more selectively than all the B&R stuff?

 

[Kai]

Here's my latest B&R, a camel hair jacket:

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



I don't travel to New York City, Hong Kong, or London much any more. (Not often enough to do regular fittings with a tailor.)

I don't even know if Raphael is still in the business. He was pretty old when I saw him last. He may be retired for all I know.

B&R is convenient, and much less expensive, and I do like their work for the most part. The suits get picked apart here on SF, but in the real world, I get compliments on them constantly. The tweed suit above is a good example. GBR doesn't like it. However, the last time I wore it, I was complimented by 5 people, including 3 complete strangers.

Fair enough.

As an aside, as others have mentioned, I would urge you to have them rework the collar, and also shorten the length of each of your coats.

 

[VinnyMac]

I don't travel to New York City, Hong Kong, or London much any more. (Not often enough to do regular fittings with a tailor.)

I don't even know if Raphael is still in the business. He was pretty old when I saw him last. He may be retired for all I know.

B&R is convenient, and much less expensive, and I do like their work for the most part. The suits get picked apart here on SF, but in the real world, I get compliments on them constantly. The tweed suit above is a good example. GBR doesn't like it. However, the last time I wore it, I was complimented by 5 people, including 3 complete strangers.

+1 Keep things in perspective. Who's opinion do you give more weight: real people or internet guys?

 

[jaywhyy]

Nope, there's no padding at all, and the jacket mostly definitely does not fit "very stuff" [sic]. Of course it's not going to be as soft (or as sloppy) as a garment-washed jacket. It's just not a spalla camicia or anything like that. I'd say it's a good choice if you want something unstructured that's not as sloppy as a Boglioli.

I think I'll drop by to see them. I really liked the Boglioli cut and the softness of the fabric, but ironically at the same time I can't bring myself to spend close to 1.5k on something OTR that feels unsubstantial.

And I disagree with GBR about the tweed, it looks great. Only critiques I have is with regards to the above (very slight collar gap, jacket length) and the position of the breast pocket.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



+1 Keep things in perspective. Who's opinion do you give more weight: real people or internet guys?

A poor way to think about things imo. Given the paucity of well-fitting suits these days, 'real' people are easily impressed with anything slim-fitting with a nipped waist. One would expect members of this forum to be more exacting.

The above isn't directed at Kai (he has enough experience to understand what he's buying, and the attendant pros / cons), but rather at this somewhat disingenuous notion offered by many when they're unhappy that members haven't gone gaga over their suits - the notion that 'iGents' are nothing more than a bunch of nitpickers who have no idea what 'real' people think. If you're posting on a forum called Styleforum, expect a critique more involved, exacting and focused on the minutiae than at your local neighborhood bbq.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Sorry, Kai - compliments or not, I don't find much to like about that tweed suit.

To echo many others before me, the collar gap and coat length on nearly all your B+R suits should be revised. Both simple changes, so hopefully the B+R team can knock'em out easily.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Also, a +100 to Cleric's last post. If the bar on this forum is set by what the general public thinks, then we may as well confine ourselves to buying the latest Ludlow suits by J. Crew.

It's also worthwhile to point out that the anonymity afforded by an internet forum also allows for more honest appraisals. I have several people at my office who stop by to show me their new suits, and I hardly ever offer a honest, no-holds barred critique. I suspect that most others are like me IRL.

 

[chogall]

Worked with B&R. Probably won't go back anytime soon and will instead suffer the long wait of NSM and maybe Steed. Or buying other RTW in deep discount and pay alterations for better results.