Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kai, Apr 8, 2013.
Possibly the shoulders are better because I ordered a fully canvasses suit.
Agreed on the lapels. I think you could go slightly wider if the suit was a solid but I think it would look, in Kai's words, very cartoon gangster if you went wider wider lapels on this particular suit.
I'm really not a fan of wide pinstripes but Kai pulls it off quite well. I think it takes a person who cuts sort of an imposing figure to wear it well.
Kai looks like the last person you'd ever see if you skipped town and owed 10 grand - and that's a compliment haha.
The lapels look fine to me.With peaks, you can almost always stand to go a little wider, but I don't think that Kai's are too small by any stretch.
They are altering the collar and upper back of the jacket a bit for me now to smooth out the fit and address the collar gap.
They've noted the fit tweaks and will be changing the pattern on the next suit.
For my second Beckett & Robb suit, I went back and forth on fabrics for a while, but ultimately settled on a grey herringbone with a bit of a nap to it. Slightly heavier fabric than the first suit. A little bit of a "country" feel to it, but still suitable for business.
Changes from the first suit: I'm going with notch lapels instead of peak. (seemed like a better fit for the fabric.)
We're moving the pants pleats out just a smidge.
Suit will be half lined instead of full lined. (It seemed like a good idea given that the fabric is more of a medium weight compared with the lightweight fabric on the first suit.)
Other than that, I'm leaving everything else alone. I was very pleased with the overall fit and look of the first suit, so I figure I will stay with what's working for me.
I also am trying one of their custom shirts.
Should be here in time for cooler fall weather.
Made the mistake of walking into the Beckett & Robb shop today.
They had some really nice Loro Piana cloth on special offer.
Bought 2 more suits.
One is a wool and cashmere flannel in a grey/blue windowpane. Doing a 3 piece in this.
The other is a nice navy pinstripe. Doing a double breasted in this one.
Going to make a point of crossing to the other side of the street when I pass by their shop. (I really don't need any more suits right now.)
One tweak that you might want to experiment with: raise the button stance by maybe 1.5cm so that the balance between the lapels, button and lower seam is a bit better split. It may lend a slightly more flattering line to the torso.
The suit looks great (and you're obviously happy) but if I were making you a coat I would want either a longer skirt (which isn't really appropriate with your arm length) or a higher button.
Personally, I think the button stance on Kai's suit looks fantastic. Yes, it's clearly a good deal lower than what's currently fashionable, but I think most of what's available in RTW today puts the button stance way too high, resulting in something out of balance. This looks properly balanced to me.
Yeah, I bet Kai doesn't plan on changing that button stance at all, and I wouldn't either. It looks perfect. The whole suit looks great, specially for MTM - perfectly balanced, and it looks like they're using a decent pattern as a base. Neither of those two things happen often in MTM.
I am going to leave the button stance as it was.
However, on my flannel windowpane suit with the notch lapels, I am going to follow the advice of a few folks on this thread and try some very slightly wider lapels.
Should have the suits some time in August.
Will post pics when they arrive.
+1 on leaving the button stance as is. IMO, raising it seems like a horrible idea.
Most lapels that you'll see can go a bit wider without looking bad. I think that your's look fine, but a little wider won't hurt.
Just commissioned my 5th B & R suit.
2 piece, unstructured, notch lapel, brown dupioni silk.
It's going to be Christmas in August this year.
The suit looks superb. On a point of detail though get them to change the back pockets to button/hole in future not tab/button. More effective, less chance of losing the button and looks far better.
I'll be interested to see all the suits you are having made. Certainly sounds like a nice B&R collection. I also think it pretty stand-up of the company to come and answer questions on here.
My grey VBC 3-roll-2 is scheduled to arrive next week. I'll tack on a review when it arrives.
Thanks...looking forward to it
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