I really need help with identifying my Johnston & Murphy Aristocrafts.

[LonnieSharp]

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I purchased a pair of Aristocrafts that were labeled "Cordovan". These are not shells obviously, but I liked the look and the price was good. After I received them, I went on an extensive hunt to try and figure out what model/year etc. these were. The numbers on the lining has all been rubbed off. All that is legible is "Aristocraft".

My issue starts with the fact that their brogue pattern runs from the throat line to the mid heel between where standard wingtips and longwings would. There is no broguing on the eyestay / lacepanel or quarters. The heel, lace panel and throat are all one piece. The heel has a french seam with an overlap. None of these features are on any Aristocraft that I can find.

Furthermore, the sole has had a rubber heel and plastic toe plates installed. The heel has J&M markings, but it doesn't seem original (I could be wrong). There is a slight bevel in the waist like a fiddleback, and the sole shape is borderline like a spade sole. It looks like a closed channel, but I can't make out a goodyear welt stitch on the top.

I am completely at a loss, I've tried finding catalogs, emailing J&M directly, searched for others like it, and have found nothing. I really appreciate anyone taking the time to read this and hope someone has some insight. Thanks again.

 

[Robert Powers]

*edited*
Other than the 1992 catalog on vcleat.com (linked below), I have not been able to find J&M catalogs online. According to vCleat.com, J&M stopped making shoes in the US in 2002. I just actually spoke with a gentleman at J&M's customer service line today trying to date a pair of shoes I just picked up (I was hoping they'd have old catalogs) and he confirmed this saying that they started outsuorcing shoe production in 1998, and the last US made shoes were in 2002. He said there was one US J&M factory open until 2006, but it only made luggage & wallets.

Anyway, you are correct, your shoes are not shell cordovan. That's a common questionable tactic for shoe sellers, labelling something that color as "Cordovan", a color, vs "Shell Cordovan", the highly sought after leather made from horse hide. You can tell they're not Shell Cordovan because of the microcreasing. Shell Cordovan does not ever form those tiny wrinkles on the surface. It creates rolls. Yours also have bonded on, not Goodyear welted soles, which I. They're still made in the USA though, so I would guess that they were made in between the mid 1990's to 2002.


Johnston & Murphy 1992 Catalog | vcleat

2nd edit:
I believe the customer service guy at the J&M 800# was wrong, and David at vcleat is right... I remember J&M making their upper level Crown Aristocraft and possibly the Aristocraft line in the USA until 2018.