I know..."if it's too good to be true..."

[wicozani]

Has anyone else seen this eBay auction? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3923487448 I sent the seller a message asking about the particular construction techniques used, canvas, buttonholes, available fabrics, etc., and we'll see what the reply is. Definitely not bespoke, but appears MTM with you providing the measurements. Has anyone heard of "Chesterton"? Have a great weekend. Jeff

 

[johnnynorman3]

I emailed Chesterton once, just because I was curious. I asked point blank whether the suit was fused or full canvas. The response email answered every question I asked -- except whether the suit was fused. Safe to say that means the suit is fused. Search for "Chesterton" on this site and you'll get similar info from those who have actually tried it (or search Askandy, I can't remember where the previous posts were).

It is too good to be true. In actuality, the best bang for your buck will always come from overseas. $730 for a MTM W.W. Chan in a Super 130s fabric is the only "too good to be true" non-Ebay suit deal I have come across (Chesterton is not an Ebay seller -- they have the same "deal" direct from their website I believe).

 

[armscye]

I bought one. It's fused in the chest with handstitched lapels. Mine cost $362 and is a Canali (edgemarked) gray worsted. I got to specify the pocket design, lapel width, and all the usual details. Buttonholes are handmade, edges pickstitched. Cut is snug British, as I specified.

I had them leave the sleeves and cuffs undone so I could get the lengths just right. It needed very minor alterations only-- a little relief in the upper sleeves and waist. The pants fit better than any custom suit I've ever owned, including some full bespoke three-fitting suits.

I don't know where it was made, but it ain't the US-- there was a note stitched to one pocket in an alphabet that looked (to me) either Indo-asian or maybe Filipino.

To me, Chesterton is a great value. I've heard that you need to take careful measurements. I took my time measuring myself, avoided the diciest issues (length).

I haven't had time for pix, maybe later in the Fall.

 

[retronotmetro]

It's interesting that they declined to answer Johnny's question about fused vs. canvas. Their website talks about 800 stitches in the lapels, which implies pad stitching instead of fusing, and this is consistent with armscye's description of stitched lapels.

Based on armscye's description of the "Indo-asian" note in the pocket, I think Thailand might be a possible source. I think that they generally use the Latin alphabet in the Philippines. There are a number of decent tailors in Thailand, and the labor cost is still fairly low there.

 

[regularjoe]

I was told the factories that produce the suits are in the US: Kentucky and Florida if I remember correctly.

My suits had a half-canvas chest piece, but the lapels were fused on. The quality control is hit or miss: I just received two were one was smaller than the other. Allegedly, there is material to let out the jacket and pants, but it seems a shame that I have to find a local tailor to do it.

My advice: save the $600 and find a Canali, Corneliani, or some such on sale.

 

[johnnynorman3]

I just don't see how $350 for a fused suit is a great deal, even if it is faux-MTM. That is not to denigrate your purchase, Armsyce, but I think even you must agree that getting a $500 - 600 OTR full canvas suit is in the long run the better purchase. Or for that matter a W.W. Chan for $750. If one is finicky enough to want to go MTM, then they are finicky enough to plan a trip to a major city around a W.W. Chan or even Noble House suit fitting tour.

By the way, I have heard on AskAndy that Chesterton will do full canvas for a premium fee. Not sure if that is true, but at least worth inquiring.

 

[armscye]

IMHO, Johnny, fit is king-- what people remember is silhouette and cut, not fabric or tailoring details.

So I would rather have a perfectly fitted $99 Fubu suit than a full-canvas Super 150s that has typical horsecollar, loose chest, and saggy-ass pants.

My Chesterton looks so Brit/Row that I had an airline stew hand me my jacket and say "you must travel to London a lot." The fact that my Chesterton has a fused light-mesh chest interlining (just like a Baldessarini, and lots of Barberas) is far less important to me than the fact that it fits like a dream.

 

[johnnynorman3]

Touche. I fit OTR nearly perfectly in many brands of suits, so I don't think I can appreciate how much MTM adds. I'll let you know though when I get my Chan suit in next week.

 

[armscye]

That's the difference, I think. I have odd shoulders that look like the hanger is still in the suit, a 44 inch chest, and a 33 inch waist, so nothing Off the Peg comes close to fitting, and typical alterations for a RTW suit run $200.

If you come close to fitting an OTR size, you are right that watching for a bargain from a good name is a better bet than the tortuous process of "Web-based MTM."

Honest self assessment is the key.