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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. ysb

    ysb Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    613
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2009
    Making my first foray into raw denim. I'm live in NYC but won't have time to hit up Self Edge before I leave for San Fran on Friday so am going stop in the SF location. From what I saw on the 'Post pics of your denim' thread on here I saw a ton that I like:

    APC NS
    Flathead F380 / F310
    Dry Bones SExDBxS09
    Real Japan Blues 106BSP
    Sugar Cane SExC06
    Iron Heart 301
    Imperial Dukes
    Pure Blue Jeans xx-005
    3sixteen SL-100x

    I'm looking for a good slim straight entry level raw indigo that will have good fades over time. Unfortunately my desk job doesn't allow me to wear them day in and day out but intend to pick them up early in my trip and live in them for the whole week to get a good start on the break in. I'm ~175 lbs with pretty narrow legs, my thigh measures 23" and my calf 14.5".

    Any of the above or others not mentioned are a good fit for my criteria? Price is not the most important thing


    Can't go wrong with APC's for starters, which I'm sure you can find pretty easily in SF. if you're going to buy and wear, keep in mind that if you size the APC's correctly, you're going to look like a sausage for the first couple of days, then they'll stretch. you'll find all those jeans you listed, except the PBJ's at Self Edge, and like the poster above recommended, set aside an hour or two to try stuff on in the store and get input from the guys in the store. They'll sort you out. Also I think the SExSC06 is sold out (I'm trying to find a pair too) so you can only find those 2nd hand.

    I've owned both the FH F380 and the 310, and they're very different in terms of fit. the 310's a much slimmer cut.

    also keep in mind that a number of the jeans you listed will benefit from a hot soak before you wear them, so wherever you're staying make sure you have the facilities to do that. the guys at SE will let you know which models will need that.

    Good luck!
     
  2. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,754
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Location:
    EastXwesT
    Making my first foray into raw denim. I'm live in NYC but won't have time to hit up Self Edge before I leave for San Fran on Friday so am going stop in the SF location. From what I saw on the 'Post pics of your denim' thread on here I saw a ton that I like:

    APC NS
    Flathead F380 / F310
    Dry Bones SExDBxS09

    Real Japan Blues 106BSP
    Sugar Cane SExC06
    Iron Heart 301
    Imperial Dukes
    Pure Blue Jeans xx-005
    3sixteen SL-100x

    I'm looking for a good slim straight entry level raw indigo that will have good fades over time. Unfortunately my desk job doesn't allow me to wear them day in and day out but intend to pick them up early in my trip and live in them for the whole week to get a good start on the break in. I'm ~175 lbs with pretty narrow legs, my thigh measures 23" and my calf 14.5".

    Any of the above or others not mentioned are a good fit for my criteria? Price is not the most important thing

    imo, make the foray count. 12 mos down the line, when the APCs start to fall apart, you'll be regretting/switching up. from preference, i suggest F310 or Dry Bones SExDBxS09, if you really want the RAW denim experience.

    nothing against APC. their cuts are stylish & have the "now" appeal . if that's what you're going for... then, by all means. but, the denim is just not for the long haul or does not appreciate "worn in".

    i know a few folks won't like it, but i'm just sharing my opinion/experience.
     
  3. entrero

    entrero Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,082
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    12 mos down the line, when the APCs start to fall apart, you'll be regretting/switching up.
    Bullshit. Also you forgot a little detail...see below

    Unfortunately my desk job doesn't allow me to wear them day in and day out
     
  4. mikecch

    mikecch Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    689
    Joined:
    May 30, 2010
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Should put APC in different list, haha. [​IMG]
     
  5. hpnas

    hpnas Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2010
    So given I can only really wear them in weekends does it make sense to get a pair of APCs?
     
  6. commodorewheeler

    commodorewheeler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,573
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Location:
    Anaheim, CA, USA
    Making my first foray into raw denim. I'm live in NYC but won't have time to hit up Self Edge before I leave for San Fran on Friday so am going stop in the SF location. From what I saw on the 'Post pics of your denim' thread on here I saw a ton that I like:

    APC NS
    Flathead F380 / F310
    Dry Bones SExDBxS09
    Real Japan Blues 106BSP
    Sugar Cane SExC06
    Iron Heart 301
    Imperial Dukes
    Pure Blue Jeans xx-005
    3sixteen SL-100x

    I'm looking for a good slim straight entry level raw indigo that will have good fades over time. Unfortunately my desk job doesn't allow me to wear them day in and day out but intend to pick them up early in my trip and live in them for the whole week to get a good start on the break in. I'm ~175 lbs with pretty narrow legs, my thigh measures 23" and my calf 14.5".

    Any of the above or others not mentioned are a good fit for my criteria? Price is not the most important thing


    IMO, these are all good choices for what you are looking for. Just 2 of them might be problematic to obtain:

    Dry Bones SExDBxSF09
    Sugar Cane SExSC06

    Both of these models were limited edition and are long sold out. You'd only be able to find them secondhand, and even then, neither of them seem to come up for sale too often. But the rest on the list should be readily available and are all good quality jeans.
     
  7. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,754
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Location:
    EastXwesT
    Bullshit. Also you forgot a little detail...see below
    Unfortunately my desk job doesn't allow me to wear them day in and day out ...
    no i didn't. on the contrary, all the more reason he should pick up a special pair. life is short. if he's truly up to the "denim experience", why would he want to spend his premium time on a trial pair. imo, i'd go take em straight up ... but, that's just me, of course.



    So given I can only really wear them in weekends does it make sense to get a pair of APCs?
    exactly [​IMG]
     
  8. notwithit

    notwithit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,712
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    imo, make the foray count. 12 mos down the line, when the APCs start to fall apart, you'll be regretting/switching up. from preference, i suggest F310 or Dry Bones SExDBxS09, if you really want the RAW denim experience.

    nothing against APC. their cuts are stylish & have the "now" appeal . if that's what you're going for... then, by all means. but, the denim is just not for the long haul or does not appreciate "worn in".

    i know a few folks won't like it, but i'm just sharing my opinion/experience.


    I disagree; I think it depends entirely on what he wants in a pair of jeans. I'd say the denim and details would be "better" in all of the entries other than the APCs, and the APCs are almost categorically different. If these aspects don't matter to him, though, and he just wants a modern, flattering cut, there's nothing wrong with a pair of APCs.

    I wouldn't buy APCs, but I already own a bunch of pairs with nerdy details, and I like those details, so I probably wouldn't bother with a pair that doesn't include them.

    Also, particularly with weekends-only wear, it's pretty unlikely that APCs would fall apart on him. APCs definitely can age well; jwied has some nicely worn-in APCs, as do Synthese and that one MC-er who sometimes cross-posts here (NOBD, I think?).
     
  9. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,754
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Location:
    EastXwesT
    I disagree; I think it depends entirely on what he wants in a pair of jeans. I'd say the denim and details would be "better" in all of the entries other than the APCs, and the APCs are almost categorically different. If these aspects don't matter to him, though, and he just wants a modern, flattering cut, there's nothing wrong with a pair of APCs.
    he wants a pair that will have great fades in time. i dint claim my choices were the ultimate. i merely suggested popularly slim cuts made from reputable/quality denim__ not too heavy & not too hard to fade.

    'missed the point entirely.

    armed with the new-found knowledge of the intricacies of exoctic raw denim jeans production, would you [seriously] advise him to p-up a pair of APC... knowing it'd prolly take him well over a year [1yr= approx 100 wears] to properly break in a pair?

    granted, "Price is not the most important thing" & you got all these [other] goodies to choose from, would you p-up an APC, if you have only a pair choice?
     
  10. mgz

    mgz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    112
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2009
    Location:
    Norway

    nothing against APC. their cuts are stylish & have the "now" appeal . if that's what you're going for... then, by all means. but, the denim is just not for the long haul or does not appreciate "worn in".


    I was really surprised when my first pair of APC Petite Standard started to develop holes after four months. I thought selvedge jeans was supposed to last longer.

    So my question is:

    Which jean should I replace them with (that has a higher rise and a bit more space in the tigh area)?
     
  11. entrero

    entrero Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,082
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Even fictional dragonscale denim would get holes, when you get that tight. You're on the right track though, more space.
     
  12. Hollywars

    Hollywars Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    117
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2011
    Location:
    DC
    I don't know if you want another pair of APCs, but the New Standard is a little bigger overall.
     
  13. commodorewheeler

    commodorewheeler Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,573
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Location:
    Anaheim, CA, USA
    Even fictional dragonscale denim would get holes, when you get that tight. You're on the right track though, more space.

    I'm really curious to see if Flat Head's kevlar denim or N&F's stainless steel denim gets holes at all.
     
  14. mgz

    mgz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    112
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2009
    Location:
    Norway
    Even fictional dragonscale denim would get holes, when you get that tight. You're on the right track though, more space.

    I WOULD like a pair of japanese mithril jeans, for those sick elven fades, but I will settle for anything that is a bit roomier at the top.

    Hollywars: I think I need a different model, I don´t really like the low rise of the New Standards. What I like about them is the lack of fancyness. Simple will do.
     
  15. notwithit

    notwithit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,712
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    ^ I was going to say Samurai 710, but those may have too many details for you. Also, at hpnas, I'd say go to the Self Edge web site, look up the models you listed and they carry: Flathead F380 / F310 Real Japan Blues 106BSP Iron Heart 301 Imperial Dukes 3sixteen SL-100x Think about which ones have details that appeal to you; you might love the arcs on the Imperial Dukes, for example, or you might hate them. You might like hidden rivets, or you might not care. It's really up to you. When you get to SESF, have a list of the jeans you want to try on, and maybe take suggestions from whoever helps you regarding brands and models that meet your criteria. FYI, Self Edge also carries the 3Sixteen+ line, which is supposed to be an upgraded version of the existing 3Sixteen models. @ III Icon, my only point was that it depends on what the guy's into. There's noting wrong with APCs, but there's nothing great about them, either. I wouldn't recommend them, but that's because they don't have a lot of the things that appeal to me as an enthusiast.
     
  16. mgz

    mgz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    112
    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2009
    Location:
    Norway
    ^ I was going to say Samurai 710, but those may have too many details for you.

    A bit of stitching on the back pockets I can live with. As long as they don´t glow in the dark.
    Of course mithril jeans glow blue when close to orcs, so I don´t want those japanese ones I mentioned earlier after all.

    Also; I´m a photographer, and have two small kids, so I´m crawling on my knees all the time. And Norway is cold. So super thick denim would be nice.
     
  17. notwithit

    notwithit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,712
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    I really, really like my 19 oz. 710s. Those might be a good option for you.
     
  18. KitAkira

    KitAkira Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,628
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2008
    A bit of stitching on the back pockets I can live with. As long as they don´t glow in the dark. Of course mithril jeans glow blue when close to orcs, so I don´t want those japanese ones I mentioned earlier after all. Also; I´m a photographer, and have two small kids, so I´m crawling on my knees all the time. And Norway is cold. So super thick denim would be nice.
    Get Ironhearts. Especially the overdyed black ones if you can find them, blue knees on black denim awesomeness
     
  19. tightandbright

    tightandbright Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
    Just ordered my Nudies. Just wondering, how long do they usually last for? I lead a pretty chill lifestyle, I don't do anything extreme and hardly ever exercise [​IMG] .
    It's 98% cotton and 2% lycra.
     
  20. notwithit

    notwithit Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,712
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2010
    Location:
    New Gentrificationland
    Get Ironhearts. Especially the overdyed black ones if you can find them, blue knees on black denim awesomeness

    Good call. Post evo pictures, too.

    Just ordered my Nudies. Just wondering, how long do they usually last for? I lead a pretty chill lifestyle, I don't do anything extreme and hardly ever exercise [​IMG] .
    It's 98% cotton and 2% lycra.


    Depends. Nudie pushes the "don't wash for six months" idea, but jeans need to be kept relatively clean if you want them to last. If you're coating them in sweat, dirt, or whatever for long periods of time without washing them, the denim will become weak and brittle, and therefore more prone to tears.

    If you wash them when they're dirty (hint: your jeans shouldn't smell bad or have sweat or other stains on them), you should be fine. They're not bullet-proof like Ironhearts, but they won't fall apart if you look at them funny.
     

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