I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Cacatfish

    Cacatfish Senior member

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    Back for a bit more advice. Couple years ago Whodini suggested some lee 101z for me and they worked out well except that they were always a bit tight in the thigh but need replacing now. I no longer see them on the lee website and they seem to be selling for considerably more on other sites. Looking for any suggestions for a similar style as the 101z that may be slightly more roomy in the thigh and sub $100.

    Sub $100 sounds tough for nice denim.
    I know the new "Lees" (either Edwin or Real McCoy) are well over that amount.
    I think there those Eastern European "gold label" ones are cheaper, but they dont look real quality to me.
    It'll sound odd, but Ive really liked my old Ben Davis Logger jeans. They are based on the Lee cut from years ago, but are a little wider in the leg. Similar in rise and seat fit.
    The denim is nothing special, but they are cheap and a great work jean if you like the classic Lee fit.
     


  2. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Lee Japan still makes them to old specs (LHT, selvedge, etc.) and there are Lee repro cuts just as there are Levi repros (though I can't think of any particular ones off the top of my head, at least one was carried by BiG
    Took me a little while to remember too, but found it. Real McCoys at BiG [​IMG] [​IMG] Not sure what the Samurai Leepro status is, but I think it was abandoned. Not a Lee fan. Lee clearly lacks the attorney expenditure needed to quell these crazy bandits. Love the completely authentic tag. God knows why Levis was so offended by such adoration. . . .
     


  3. Cacatfish

    Cacatfish Senior member

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    Not sure what the Samurai Leepro status is, but I think it was abandoned. Not a Lee fan.

    Lee clearly lacks the attorney expenditure needed to quell these crazy bandits. Love the completely authentic tag. God knows why Levis was so offended by such adoration.

    .


    If I understand correctly, Lee receives royalties from anyone producing Leepro jeans with the actual "lee" logo on them.
    "Lee-inspired" jeans dont pay though.
    The Samurai version is the S0110xj. Here are some pics of mine. Love em. BIG still has em also.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  4. Jinx88

    Jinx88 Active Member

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    About how much can I expect F310's to shrink in the thigh? I am looking to get some, but I am concerned about it shrinking a bit too much if I go with a 33.

    I am a 33 in Nudie Slim Jims, which are currently a little over 11 inches in the thigh, but they've only been through three wears so they still have a bit of stretching to do as they are still a bit snug. The F310's measure 12 inches in a size 33, but if they're going to shrink an inch or more after a hot soak, I may have some issues with them fitting correctly.
     


  5. rezzor

    rezzor Senior member

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    thanks guys, those are what I was looking for. I guess mine were the cheaper made in poland(i think) version. Those at BiG are a bit out of my price range. The LVC 47 look good too, I may check those out.
     


  6. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    About how much can I expect F310's to shrink in the thigh? I am looking to get some, but I am concerned about it shrinking a bit too much if I go with a 33.

    I am a 33 in Nudie Slim Jims, which are currently a little over 11 inches in the thigh, but they've only been through three wears so they still have a bit of stretching to do as they are still a bit snug. The F310's measure 12 inches in a size 33, but if they're going to shrink an inch or more after a hot soak, I may have some issues with them fitting correctly.


    FH will shrink about 1" waist, ~2" to 2.5" length and the usual .5" at rise and across thigh, .25 across at leg opening. Except for BSP, expect all models to shrink to close to tagged waist size.

    Flat Head are well known to have more shrink left in them after your first soak. Expect a small amount additional shrink after some wear and your next wash/soak. Especially in inseam.
     


  7. ghdvfddzgzdzg

    ghdvfddzgzdzg Senior member

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    and then what's the stretching out like on Flat Heads?
     


  8. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    and then what's the stretching out like on Flat Heads?

    It's completely relative. Depends on too many factors to give you an answer. Jeans can stretch beyond raw size depending on how much you gut-bust them, what you do in them, etc. And they can stretch a lot in a day, or take weeks.

    FH are somewhere in the middle stretch-wise. They're not stubborn, so if you size right, you'll see them give an inch in the waist in a few days. But they're not as elastic as Warehouse or Fullcount.
     


  9. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    If I understand correctly, Lee receives royalties from anyone producing Leepro jeans with the actual "lee" logo on them. "Lee-inspired" jeans dont pay though. The Samurai version is the S0110xj. Here are some pics of mine. Love em. BIG still has em also. [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Great info! And great fit. Thanks. I learned something today :) My Sam Yamato 003s had the same Leepro (curved) back pockets as yours, but without exposed rivets, and no other Lee aspects. And I know BiG and SuFu were gearing up to do another Leepro hybrid recently, which I think was shelved. Lee seems to have a less faithful following, yet many seem to want the novelty of LHT, which in itself is probably more just people clamoring for something different than anything else. I only had one person actually explain the fade differences of LHT in a way that made sense (i.e. - softer, more 'vintage' fades).
     


  10. Branches

    Branches Well-Known Member

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    What exactly is broken twill? What makes it different from regular denim, advantages, disadvantages etc.?
     


  11. Henryyy

    Henryyy Well-Known Member

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    Okay, so I'm pretty freaking bored of my APC NS.

    They're at 11months and its first wash was about 3 weeks ago in cold cold water, then hung dry. Barely any indigo dye washed out so it looks like it is still unwashed.

    My question is: Should I put them through hot wash/hot dry or hang dry for experimental purposes?

    I'm working on my Dior 19cm MIJ Raws right now anyway... APCs are on hold for now. They're just sitting in my closet for no reason.
     


  12. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    What exactly is broken twill? What makes it different from regular denim, advantages, disadvantages etc.?
    LHT: Twill pulls to the left RHT: Twill pulls to the right BT: Twill doesn't pull
     


  13. ghdvfddzgzdzg

    ghdvfddzgzdzg Senior member

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    Okay, so I'm pretty freaking bored of my APC NS.

    They're at 11months and its first wash was about 3 weeks ago in cold cold water, then hung dry. Barely any indigo dye washed out so it looks like it is still unwashed.

    My question is: Should I put them through hot wash/hot dry or hang dry for experimental purposes?

    I'm working on my Dior 19cm MIJ Raws right now anyway... APCs are on hold for now. They're just sitting in my closet for no reason.


    A warm wash in the machine definitely made mine look washed. If you want them to look washed, then yes, wash them on warm or hot.

    My next wash will be on hot, with a hot dryer, for shrinking purposes.
     


  14. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    What exactly is broken twill? What makes it different from regular denim, advantages, disadvantages etc.?
    There's also a visible difference in the underside (weft or 'technical back') of the cloth. Broken twill: [​IMG] I don't know what the fading or wear differences are, but I'm sure some internet research will tell you. As Kit said, the primary difference is that the material doesn't torque (twist) when shrunk.
    O They're at 11months and its first wash was about 3 weeks ago in cold cold water, then hung dry. Barely any indigo dye washed out so it looks like it is still unwashed. My question is: Should I put them through hot wash/hot dry or hang dry for experimental purposes? I'm working on my Dior 19cm MIJ Raws right now anyway... APCs are on hold for now. They're just sitting in my closet for no reason.
    Definitely! You might be amazed, surprised, dissappointed, but the possibility of learning something new is the fun part. Otherwise, they're just sitting in your closet, right? I've found that when I take risks with jeans I've become bored with, I often like them again.
     


  15. Branches

    Branches Well-Known Member

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    That's cool, thanks a lot.

    I'm thinking about getting a pair of broken twill SlimGuy's so that's why I was wondering.
     


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