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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    This might be a stupid question but is there a benefit to selvedge other than being esoteric/vintage/cool/getting a little stripe when you cuff the jeans?

    Nah, not stupid. Selvage denim is woven on narrower, older low-tension shuttle looms that allow the character, weave and slubbiness (texture) of the denim to be manipulated while being woven. The selvage line is created at the ends of the span of cloth as it's being woven.

    Selvage denim isn't inherently 'better', but because of the way it can be woven into great textures and heavier weights, and the smaller quantities that can be made on these looms vs. modern large industrial looms makes it rarer and more expensive to produce.

    The other important elements that make great denim are the choice of cotton (short- or long-staple fiber), and the natural indigo and dyeing processes used. Those are whole subjects in themselves.

    Check out this photo essay on this topic
     


  2. AR_Six

    AR_Six "Sookie!"

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    Get used to the idea of buying jeans online. With some attention, help here on the Forums and help from the shop owners like Gordon and Kiya, you can get it right without trying them on.
    I've bought tons of jeans online and I think I'm done with it. I might buy something I really, really want and just take the risk (maybe next time there's a Skull restock), but more often than not even with help from the more knowledgeable - and it's not like I'm a newbie here either - sizing is less than perfect more often than not and I am at a point where I don't want to settle for anything short of perfection fit-wise. Would rather wear an inferior jean (nudie, apc) that will fit perfectly than take a chance on samurai and have the fit be off, even just a little bit off. Kiya knows jeans, but he doesn't know me, and nobody will know what will look best until I've tried it on. So I'm the only judge that really matters.
     


  3. Bona Drag

    Bona Drag Senior member

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    wise man once say:

    After all, jeans should be easy wearing. Who cares about getting a "perfect" fit. An easy fit is better
     


  4. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Nah, not stupid. Selvage denim is woven on narrower, older low-tension shuttle looms that allow the character, weave and slubbiness (texture) of the denim to be manipulated while being woven. The selvage line is created at the ends of the span of cloth as it's being woven. Selvage denim isn't inherently 'better', but because of the way it can be woven into great textures and heavier weights, and the smaller quantities that can be made on these looms vs. modern large industrial looms makes it rarer and more expensive to produce. The other important elements that make great denim are the choice of cotton (short- or long-staple fiber), and the natural indigo and dyeing processes used. Those are whole subjects in themselves. Check out this photo essay on this topic
    No longer the case. The Japanese mills use shuttle looms but most Chinese/Indian mills use jet looms which means it churns out at the same speed as any other denim (though the output is halved because they need 32" widths to use both selvage edges without wasting a bunch of denim)
     


  5. Trapp

    Trapp Senior member

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    Kit and mlyngard,

    Thx. I think you both nailed it with recommending a higher back rise and a roomier cut in the hips.

    I had never really thought about it, but I have relatively wide hips (33" with tape) compared to thin legs (thigh measures 23" at the thickest--just measured). To get the fit I like in the legs, I'm sizing down (not way down, but on the bottom end of standard acceptable downsizing, taking waist 30 for APC NS, for example.) As a result, my hips and hind end are really pulling on the upper 6-8" of the top block, while, on the contrary, my legs aren't even filling out the thighs.

    Coincidentally, the benefit of a higher back rise was corroborated just this morning when I tried on the RRL straight fit for the first time (high front rise at least and I'm assuming higher rear rise). They fit really well up top, snug, but without any fly gapping. Even the legs aren't that roomy--i was surprised how flattering the cut and fit were to my proportions.

    mlyn, thanks for the brand suggestions. A little disappointed that PBJ and Samurai might not offer the best cuts for me, as I've done a bunch of recent research on them (Kit's helped me out with that, too) and I was looking forward to trying one or both.

    For the sake of posterity, here's what I'm talking about with the New Standard's, the worst culprits in fly-gapping. You can see how much tension is on top:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  6. AR_Six

    AR_Six "Sookie!"

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    Need help sizing Dior jeans. I'm size 32 in APC NS raw, 33ish in N&F weird guy, 34 nudie thin fin dry organic, 33ish Acne Max raw. Tried on a few pairs of jawnz today to figure out what fits me now that I am this size, including a pair of washed Diors, MII, in 33. How do raw MIJs or MIIs compared to the MII washed pairs?
     


  7. benchan

    benchan Senior member

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    What's your opinion on wearing jeans with stretch material? I am not talking about those tight jeans, but even on slim cut, I think it is a bit more comfortable esp in the summer months.
     


  8. wogbog

    wogbog Senior member

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    Extremely comfortable.
     


  9. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    Need help sizing Dior jeans. I'm size 32 in APC NS raw, 33ish in N&F weird guy, 34 nudie thin fin dry organic, 33ish Acne Max raw. Tried on a few pairs of jawnz today to figure out what fits me now that I am this size, including a pair of washed Diors, MII, in 33. How do raw MIJs or MIIs compared to the MII washed pairs?

    Most go one down from washed sizes to account for stretch- but of course keep in mind, on jeans, it's really the waist that has dramatic stretching.
     


  10. altemp

    altemp Senior member

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    Yeah I'm 28 in dior raws and 29 in dior washes with a 30.5-31 waist.
     


  11. Brennotdan

    Brennotdan Member

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    I would like to find something in between levis 501 and 514. The 501 rise is a bit high, and the anti-fit seat gets really baggy on me. The 514 sits a bit low, and the thighs are too roomy. I actually got the 514 selvage and sent them back because the fit was much baggier than the 514s I have. I wear size 30X30 in 514, and I have 501 STF that I got in 31X34 that are sort of baggy. I also have prewashed 501s 30x30 that are okay, but the rise and material. I was looking at the new EP jeans. APCs, I'm not considering because of the stretch. Price under $200. Any suggestions?
     


  12. Fortysomething

    Fortysomething Senior member

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    I would like to find something in between levis 501 and 514. The 501 rise is a bit high, and the anti-fit seat gets really baggy on me. The 514 sits a bit low, and the thighs are too roomy. I actually got the 514 selvage and sent them back because the fit was much baggier than the 514s I have. I wear size 30X30 in 514, and I have 501 STF that I got in 31X34 that are sort of baggy. I also have prewashed 501s 30x30 that are okay, but the rise and material. I was looking at the new EP jeans. APCs, I'm not considering because of the stretch. Price under $200. Any suggestions?

    Have you tried the Levi's 512? Slim, but with a more tapered leg (although the pair I have I don't think the leg is as tapered as I thought it would be.)
     


  13. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    Whats another cut like the Julian Red California?
     


  14. d_denim

    d_denim New Member

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    I need a heavy weight denim, so you guys got any suggestion??
     


  15. Cool The Kid

    Cool The Kid Senior member

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    Have you tried the Levi's 512? Slim, but with a more tapered leg (although the pair I have I don't think the leg is as tapered as I thought it would be.)
    Seems they dont make em for men in the US

    Sounds like the perfect fit though

    512 Imprints sound like perfection to me
     


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