I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. JDILLA

    JDILLA New Member

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    Yeah, there isn't really an international standard for measuring the thigh. There should be though, because a lot happens between the crotch seam and even 1-2" down the leg. It can be a worthless measurement unless you know where it was taken. So arbitrary needs to be used sparingly [​IMG]

    Kiya at SE takes his 1" down the leg. Gordon at BiG (who has years of garment industry experience), takes his thigh measurement across the thigh at the crotch seam intersection (laid flat - all the way across). Like this:

    [​IMG]

    It seems the BiG style is more widely accepted on the forums. It's best to know where this measurement is taken if you're gonna compare dimensions.


    Thanks for the explanation.. Any thoughts on what jeans have the same type of cut?
     
  2. ilprescelto

    ilprescelto Member

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    Well put. Give the repros the love they had five years ago.



    I thought I could beat that 1.5" waist shrink on my first try with FH denim. Tried (2-up) 32, and with one soak was fooled by the intial loose fit, so sold them. Went down to 31 and they were great with one soak and then bit my ass on the second soak. 31 ended up about ~29.5w, thigh was easy +.75 shrink. That's where it got me - the thighs. Tighter than my 31 Momos. Tighter than PBJ 005 or Skull 5010 thigh. The taper worked against it all too.



    I've got both those DB's. The SE09s are true non-sanforized-low-shrink (as far as I'm concerned, they can't do a denim with that kind of FH/Sam slubbiness with a true high-sanforization process). The Red-D however are real APC/KMW/Jean Shop-style sanforized. As in 'no-shrink, fast stretch' style. I even machine-washed/dried my Red-D when new and the fit barely changed (and I loved the denim after).

    My suggestion is to soak every few weeks. Returns and improves all fits and is really good for the jeans. Also accelerates the fading, imo. It's debatable as to why (makes denim crispier/stiffer/tighter/loosens surface indigo...who knows).

    As for Sams, suggest TTS for anything you have no experience with, but troll the forums for advice and read size charts carefully (Or ask Gordon - he knows all - even if it seems against your current knowledge).

    That 710 19oz is serious and heavy slub. Silver-color, big-ball knotty, coarse slub and it'll make you squirm if you undersize (no drama here, just can tell). It's heavier but with the same properties as the PBJ 013/005. It's nothing like the SEDB09s 16oz (which is pretty stretchy, smooth and forgiving). I handled the 710 last weekend. If you like the DB09s fit and weight, I highly suggest you consider the Sam S003JP Yamato. It's a winner, and at TTS will be an identical fit to the DB.


    Thanks; Yeah I'm actually looking for a different fit than the sufu dry bones, which is why I was looking at the 710s which are more tapered. I'm also interested in a heavier pair; it seems like the 710s fit all my requirements; with a 32 in the sufu dry bones, should i get 32 with the samurais?
    thanks
     
  3. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Thanks; Yeah I'm actually looking for a different fit than the sufu dry bones, which is why I was looking at the 710s which are more tapered. I'm also interested in a heavier pair; it seems like the 710s fit all my requirements; with a 32 in the sufu dry bones, should i get 32 with the samurais?
    thanks


    No. I'm a 29 in the SuFu DB and a 31 in just about everything else. Might want to check with Gordon at BiG and also eyeball the size charts on those 710. Maybe pose this question on the Sam thread too.

    In general, Samurai should be ordered as, and will shrink to TTS on the tag. You'd probably be closer to a 33 or 34 on those (it's also a slim cut and you want to avoid downsizing too much on heavy denim).
     
  4. grouper

    grouper Senior member

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    I am considering buying these Raf by Raf Simons jeans:

    http://www.yoox.com/item.asp?sec=1&Y...V&sts=sr_men80

    But I am unsure of sizing. I am a 30 in levis but that is a slightly tight fit. How should I size these?

    I'm really looking for any cream-colored jeans (not pure white) that are skinny and have a leg opening of less than 7 inches. Can anyone help with this?
     
  5. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    If you can find them, I think the NdG beige jeans may fit the bill (it's more of an off-white than true beige)
     
  6. grouper

    grouper Senior member

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  7. grouper

    grouper Senior member

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    Alternately, is there a way to wash jeans without the jeans shrinking? I'm assuming I'm going to have to wash those jeans at least once a month since they're such a light color but if I can do it without worrying how much they'll shrink the size 30 would be perfect.
     
  8. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Yeah those
     
  9. Flight Bird

    Flight Bird Senior member

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    I'm in the market for a pair of nice raw denim. My price range is up to $200, but I can't seem to decide on what to buy! APC Petit Standards, Nudies (on sale), or... well I don't know.

    Also, is selvage worth paying more for?
     
  10. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    Looking for a cut similar to the 514 with a button fly in raw denim. Any makers make something like that?
     
  11. Mistral

    Mistral Senior member

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    Could anyone give an opinion on the sizing? This is my first STF-jean and I'm wondering what's good or bad about it. By the way, if you hadn't noticed, presoak.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. grouper

    grouper Senior member

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    Looking for a cut similar to the 514 with a button fly in raw denim. Any makers make something like that?

    If you're going to buy raw denim you might as well shell out the extra $20 to have them tailored to fit like 514s... just bring in a pair of 514s to the tailor when you have it done.
     
  13. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    If you're going to buy raw denim you might as well shell out the extra $20 to have them tailored to fit like 514s... just bring in a pair of 514s to the tailor when you have it done.

    Huh?
     
  14. grouper

    grouper Senior member

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    What I'm saying is that you could look for a pair you like (selvedge, good quality denim, button fly), then if they don't fit the way you want to, bring them in to a tailor to have them altered to fit like 514s.

    If you don't want to do that, I think APC New Standards fit like 514s, but I might be wrong.
     
  15. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Senior member

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    I thought thats what you said, but finding a tailor to recut pants for $20 is short of a miracle in my area. Not sure what its like in yours. So that option isn't economical.

    Thanks for the tip about APCs. I'll check them out.
     

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