I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Dexter_

    Dexter_ Senior member

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    Ok, newbie question.... Raw vs One-wash? What is the benefit of one over the other? Raw seems to be favored by many but I'm not sure why.
     


  2. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    you need repros in your life__ model '47s & 50's cut. check these out: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...=163400&page=2 BlueInGreen : https://blueingreensoho.com/site/ind...id=28&vmcchk=1 : for Warehouse, Real McCoy, Fullcount 0105C, Denime XX-type, SD 101, Skull 5507XX 6x6, Momotaro 201, Sugarcane '47/Okinawa/Hawaii, Samurai 0500/0510/5000vx/0110xj/002jp, etc, etc.
    Well put. Give the repros the love they had five years ago.
    yea, man. 'got into the habbit of double soaking, too. btw, how much did the BSP shrink from tagged? just recently found out the lot were actually under-cut as compared to the regular prod'n FH [which were shrink to tagged].
    I thought I could beat that 1.5" waist shrink on my first try with FH denim. Tried (2-up) 32, and with one soak was fooled by the intial loose fit, so sold them. Went down to 31 and they were great with one soak and then bit my ass on the second soak. 31 ended up about ~29.5w, thigh was easy +.75 shrink. That's where it got me - the thighs. Tighter than my 31 Momos. Tighter than PBJ 005 or Skull 5010 thigh. The taper worked against it all too.
    have a pair of dry bones, i probably have like 5 months of wear on them and theyre very slightly on the large side. if i soak them again, will they shrink more? how does it affect fading (theyre fading pretty slowly too)? and I might be getting a pair of Samurai 710s; I have a 32 in the dry bones (superfuture ones). What size would work? I want a slim fit.. And any other denim similar to 710s in the price range? thanks
    I've got both those DB's. The SE09s are true non-sanforized-low-shrink (as far as I'm concerned, they can't do a denim with that kind of FH/Sam slubbiness with a true high-sanforization process). The Red-D however are real APC/KMW/Jean Shop-style sanforized. As in 'no-shrink, fast stretch' style. I even machine-washed/dried my Red-D when new and the fit barely changed (and I loved the denim after). My suggestion is to soak every few weeks. Returns and improves all fits and is really good for the jeans. Also accelerates the fading, imo. It's debatable as to why (makes denim crispier/stiffer/tighter/loosens surface indigo...who knows). As for Sams, suggest TTS for anything you have no experience with, but troll the forums for advice and read size charts carefully (Or ask Gordon - he knows all - even if it seems against your current knowledge). That 710 19oz is serious and heavy slub. Silver-color, big-ball knotty, coarse slub and it'll make you squirm if you undersize (no drama here, just can tell). It's heavier but with the same properties as the PBJ 013/005. It's nothing like the SEDB09s 16oz (which is pretty stretchy, smooth and forgiving). I handled the 710 last weekend. If you like the DB09s fit and weight, I highly suggest you consider the Sam S003JP Yamato. It's a winner, and at TTS will be an identical fit to the DB.
     


  3. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Ok, newbie question.... Raw vs One-wash? What is the benefit of one over the other? Raw seems to be favored by many but I'm not sure why.
    O/W seems to be favored in Japan, and is best for newcomers. Nothing at all wrong with it. STF (raw) is much more popular in the US. Buying raw allows you to shrink the jeans with your own process, rather than the harder-shrunk one-wash processes you'll get from the factory. Shrinking your own from raw state has more variables involved, and more work on your part to get the fit where you want it. But you earn it.
     


  4. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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    ^to add :: Xposted from "Skull ... " thread re: Raw vs O/W


    ..... don't get confused with raw vs O/W. they're graded and cut from the same marker, so any W32 from the same lot should have identical measurement, production-wise. the only difference is the stage/condition... one is dry while the O/W had already shrunk [by some percentage]. some prefer raw cuz they have control of the shrinkage when down sizing for a slimmer fit__ and [as some claim] better creasing because the starch is intact.
     


  5. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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    sorry, dbl post
     


  6. grouper

    grouper Senior member

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    How much should I expect a pair of ivory Obey jeans to shrink? Anyone have experience with Obey jeans?
     


  7. Dexter_

    Dexter_ Senior member

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    Thanks for the input guys.

    So, if the idea to go with Raw is to get the perfect fit by the whole soaking/washing process and the possibility of having better creases and such to add character to jeans, would a Raw Sanforized make sense?

    Since the shrinkage on sanforized jeans is minimal (from what I read) why would one opt to go this route instead of going all out on a raw unsanforized pair?

    O/W seems to be favored in Japan, and is best for newcomers. Nothing at all wrong with it. STF (raw) is much more popular in the US. Buying raw allows you to shrink the jeans with your own process, rather than the harder-shrunk one-wash processes you'll get from the factory.

    Shrinking your own from raw state has more variables involved, and more work on your part to get the fit where you want it. But you earn it.


    ^to add :: Xposted from "Skull ... " thread re: Raw vs O/W
     


  8. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    There is no difference between raw unsanforized and raw sanforized as a general rule in terms of fading. Sanforized denim offers no-guesswork sizing (aside from stretch: you can buy your jeans tight and stretch them to fit rather than have to account for shrink and then also account for stretch) and the ability to wear right out of the box without a soak (occasionally meaning starting out with stiffer jeans, though soaking can also stiffen denim).
     


  9. JDILLA

    JDILLA New Member

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    Noob here... Looking for jeans similar to these: [​IMG] I have 34x32 and they fit well. The jean measurements are: 10.5" rise, 10" thigh, 8.5" knee, 9" leg opening. I'm trying to find jeans that have a similar fit. The picture doesn't show the slightly wider leg opening very well, but you can tell when you wear them that the knees are fitted a little tighter, which I like. Anyone have any suggestions on this type of fit? I have not been able to find any jeans that are similar to these at all, and they discontinued this model.
     


  10. Doctor Quack

    Doctor Quack Senior member

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    ^ Granted, I'm not familiar with this brand at all, but a 10" thigh does not sound right for a 34" waist. You really only see thigh measurements that size with waists in the 28" and lower area. How did you measure the thigh?
     


  11. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Especially given the picture
     


  12. JDILLA

    JDILLA New Member

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    ^ Granted, I'm not familiar with this brand at all, but a 10" thigh does not sound right for a 34" waist. You really only see thigh measurements that size with waists in the 28" and lower area. How did you measure the thigh?

    I probably measured it wrong then, lol. I just picked an arbitrary point on the "thigh" area and measured the width. For the knee and leg opening measurements I also just measured the width of the jean. The rise measurement follows the seam up from below the zipper to the top of the jean.
     


  13. bundestaag

    bundestaag Member

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    I have a problem with my jeans..
    one of my denim have been resting for a couple of months after 6 months wearing becausae im affraid that they would get holes in the crotch area as they already show some white lines ready to break appart haha.. (even the whiskers area)
    do you have the same problem? should I patch them or what?
     


  14. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I have a problem with my jeans.. one of my denim have been resting for a couple of months after 6 months wearing becausae im affraid that they would get holes in the crotch area as they already show some white lines ready to break appart haha.. (even the whiskers area) do you have the same problem? should I patch them or what?
    If you're worried about it and aren't wearing them then yeah, you might wan to patch them. If the jeans are worth it, you can contact SelfEdge or Blue Owl (both affiliates above). Both offer real denim repair services inexpensively. You'll have to ship them to them, and back, but the service seems worth it. Denim Doctors in LA is also highly regarded. Alternately, you can see what your local tailor can do, or try it yourself. If it's crotch abrasion wear, that's a tricky repair and one you don't want to be cheap with. Search the forum(s) here and over at SuFu for denim repair threads and see how others did it. Edit: that's a common area of wear. A good repair will probably run a backing material behind the wear points and use color-matched blue thread to zig-zag stitching over it in line with the warp threads like this: [​IMG]
     


  15. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Since the shrinkage on sanforized jeans is minimal (from what I read) why would one opt to go this route instead of going all out on a raw unsanforized pair?
    I suggest sanforized or one-wash if you're just starting out and are new to this. As Kit alluded to, it's easier not to have to deal with shrinkage and then stretch issues. There's some amazing sanforized and one-wash jeans available. One washes are usually thoroughly washed and heavily dried in industrial machines, so they'll have a dark but 'crinkly' appearance and will be fully shrunk. Some see this as a really abusive process and would prefer to do their own shrinking at home in a more gentle and controlled manner. The drawback to at-home shrinking is that you may not get all the shrinking done in one soak, and might end up with more shrinking months later (bad). Sanforized is a slightly different in that they're dry, and do shrink a tiny bit, but can also be worn right away.
    ^ Granted, I'm not familiar with this brand at all, but a 10" thigh does not sound right for a 34" waist. You really only see thigh measurements that size with waists in the 28" and lower area. How did you measure the thigh?
    I probably measured it wrong then, lol. I just picked an arbitrary point on the "thigh" area and measured the width. For the knee and leg opening measurements I also just measured the width of the jean. The rise measurement follows the seam up from below the zipper to the top of the jean.
    Yeah, there isn't really an international standard for measuring the thigh. There should be though, because a lot happens between the crotch seam and even 1-2" down the leg. It can be a worthless measurement unless you know where it was taken. So arbitrary needs to be used sparingly [​IMG] Kiya at SE takes his 1" down the leg. Gordon at BiG (who has years of garment industry experience), takes his thigh measurement across the thigh at the crotch seam intersection (laid flat - all the way across). Like this: [​IMG] It seems the BiG style is more widely accepted on the forums. It's best to know where this measurement is taken if you're gonna compare dimensions.
     


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