I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Spyre

    Spyre Active Member

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    How much do you want to spend? APC Petit Standard or Naked and Famous skinny guy are both a good value for raw/selvedge. The main difference is that raw jeans tend of have longer inseams (34-36") compared to your levis so you'll get more stacking, or you could hem them.

    budget isn't as important as getting a good fit. 200+ if needed
     


  2. GreenFrog

    GreenFrog Senior member

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    I have a pair of Dior 19 cms and I need a new pair of jeans. As of now, I'm leaning towards a looser fit (i.e. new standards, or 21 cm).

    Now, I don't want to drop more than $150 on jeans again and I really want a zip fly. I'm really sick of this button fly lol.

    So, if the Dior 19 cm is to the New Cures, 21 cm --> New standards, then what are the equivalents of those two cuts in Naked and Famous denim?

    Skinny guy looks like 19 cms and those are a bit too skinny. Slim guy seems more loose than 21 cm, and weird guy, I have no idea.

    Can anyone help me out here?
     


  3. hobo_ken

    hobo_ken Senior member

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    None of the N&F cuts are really similar to that of the 19cms.

    You would probably be happy with the weird guy, although, that still may be too skinny for you.

    If that doesn't work, N&F probably isn't the right cut for you.

    Depending on your size, I'd probably go with APC NS/PS.
     


  4. thats.mana

    thats.mana Senior member

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    ^^Too add to that and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the dior 19cm is closer to the old cure's then the new cure's.
     


  5. CunningSmeagol

    CunningSmeagol Senior member

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    Has anyone ever had a bit of tape sewn into the waistband of their jeans to keep them from stretching there?
     


  6. Macintosh

    Macintosh Well-Known Member

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    Can anybody recommend me a good boot-cut pair of selvage jeans?
     


  7. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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  8. enigma77

    enigma77 Senior member

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    Nicely done Enigma. Awesome summary. Would rep if I could. Re: cuffs: I cuff. Hem cost isn't an issue for me, and it's not really a fashion decision. It's because: 1. shrink/stretch cycles of denim and the leg shortening from eventual stacking, and creasing/bunching is very much an issue. Jeans can also shrink a second or third time when soak or wash again. Sanforized worn dry in the beginning can shrink up to an inch when eventually washed. You always need more material than you think. Only experience teaches you that. I learned the very hard, expensive and frustrating way. 2. Cuffing also changes the drape and silhouette of the leg, and also has a 'retro' look I like. I've also done it since I was ten. 3. Cuffing spares your shoes from getting stained blue. This actually happens more than you'd think. 4. Cuffing shows off that $300 selvage line! I've found tailors, even ones with denim experience, to be a good asset, but have learned to use their input cautiously like any other advice. In the end, I learned the hard way what works best on hem length and cuffs for me, but I earned it. It's gonna vary a lot with every pair and fit, every time, so broad rules of advice should be treated as a guideline only. In the end, I trust my own call first and last.
    Thanks for the reply, mlyngard. Something I obviously failed to mention is that some people really like the way cuffing looks. But the #1 reason I don't cuff is that I don't think it looks good on me -- on me; on other people it looks great, and I say that non-sarcastically. For me, I like the semi-stacked look. I can't get behind letting an extra 4" of fabric stack on my shoes, as I think that looks goofy, but letting a few extra inches stack looks great, I think, and develops subtle fades at the leg opening that I really like. This is all personal preference. Your point #4 is part of why I don't cuff, as I feel uneasy about advertising the fact that I buy semi-expensive jeans. Because cuffing doesn't look good on me, I think all that it would accomplish is saying, "Look at me, I bought something expensive!" It's like people you see with expensive sneakers that look awful on them, or women carrying huge status bags that obviously cost hundreds or thousand that just look ridiculous. If you can pull the look off as most people can, then it works and is non-obnoxious. I can't pull the cuffed look off, so a hem/stack is necessary for me. As for the amount of material, I always give my raws a cold soak inside out (tiny bit of Woolite Dark) before first wear, or at least before hemming, to get as much shrinkage and extra indigo out as possible, and then tend not to wash, but even after other soakings it works out fine, as even sanforized denim will start to stretch and give you some extra material. I've actually had the opposite problem as you where my jeans just start getting longer. Thankfully my tailor knows me and knows much of my wardrobe and has told me that, if this happens to clothes he's hemmed, he'll re-hem them for free or for a discounted price. Anyway, different strokes. Oh, and yeah shoe staining is bad mojo. I soak initially for that reason, too. I had mostly responded to NinjaPirate's query, where he indicated that his tailor had done poor hem work in the past, which is inexcusable. A tailor should never do bad hem work. It's hemming! I think that's the first thing they teach in Alterations 101...
    Coated = denim that's been treated with a coating of something (wax generally, can be other things). Coated jeans tend to not be raw, and the coating will generally fade over time (washing will increase the rate) Overdyed = denim that has been redyed after the initial dye (can be done at the thread level, denim level, or garment level). Overdyed jeans will fade from the overdye to the regular dye to the core (white). Cheap coated jeans are hard to come by because coated denim tends to be custom and if it's from a quality mill, that means $$$. (I have come across Jean Shop black coated Rockers but I don't remember the price, could proxy if interested [​IMG])
    Thanks KitAkira for the clarification. Guess I just wish 3sixteen made their straight leg indigo (SL-100) with a coated denim similar to the ST-210... Maybe 3sixteen+ will be the answer. And I'll pass on the Jean Shop Rockers; I don't really like the way Jean Shop fits, unfortunately. Thanks, though! I appreciate the offer.
     


  9. Adrian101

    Adrian101 Active Member

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    Hey guys need to gain some knowledge here on a few denim models. I'm 5'8", normally wear a size 32x32 in most regular jeans. FLATHEADS 1. Between the SE05BSP and the F3001, which is slimmer? 2. Is the slimmer of the two skin-tight skinny? 3. Which one of these models would give me a slight slouchy look, but still non-baggy slim straight look at the same time? (Dont like the skin tight skinny rocker/skaterboy look, just slim jeans I want) 4. What size should I aim for? P.S. I wear a lot of converses so I wouldn't want it to engulf the sneakers too much with the leg opening of the jeans. I also like to sag a little bit (slouchy), I don't know if that matters not too much though. Thanks guys.
     


  10. Vaitek

    Vaitek Senior member

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    I'm in the market for a bluer pair of nice denims, I think I have enough of the darker ones. Dark navy, indigo, etc. Straight, not tight, but slimmer straight is fine. I was eyeballing these, but that price tag put them out of my range which is too bad because I do like the color and cut. http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=1007 [​IMG] Any of you guys have suggestions on similar cuts/color to this out there? Thanks!
     


  11. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    ^^Too add to that and someone correct me if I'm wrong but the dior 19cm is closer to the old cure's then the new cure's.

    Not really like the New Cure, less tight in the thighs, less taper in the calves, no flair, higher rise. That's essentially what the cure is.
     


  12. aoluffy

    aoluffy Senior member

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    i see some ppl wearing different coloured jeans like lighter more washed out blues skinny fit etc..

    any reccomended sites/designers for some mid-price jeans? I have a pair of raws, will purchase one more but I like the different colour/wierd colour denims some people sport. are uniqlo a good bet or not?
     


  13. ahjota

    ahjota Senior member

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    Go Uniqlo, go Acne.
     


  14. enigma77

    enigma77 Senior member

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    i see some ppl wearing different coloured jeans like lighter more washed out blues skinny fit etc..

    any reccomended sites/designers for some mid-price jeans? I have a pair of raws, will purchase one more but I like the different colour/wierd colour denims some people sport. are uniqlo a good bet or not?

    Uniqlo is cheap and has a ton of options. That's not to say that the denim is A1 quality, though, but they're great to knock around in.
     


  15. Gavin

    Gavin Senior member

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    Hopefully I can explain this properly...

    I've never been one to cuff my jeans, but I do cuff my (first pair of) Sugarcanes because the length -- even post-shrink -- is just that little bit too long and I'd rather not hem them.

    They've been cuffed for about three months...and now when I un-cuff them, there's some fraying of the denim along the fold line on the outside of the leg. Is this normal? What causes it? And am I at risk of a hole developing just because of the cuff?
     


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