I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. ysb

    ysb Senior member

    Messages:
    613
    Likes Received:
    42
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2009
    Hi all,
    After filling up my closet with "mid range" denim, I've got several pairs of apc, nudie, acne and the epaulet indigo EP's. I think I'm finally ready to add a pair of the higher end japanese denim to my collection as a project. I happen to be in northern cali for work an am thinking of stopping by self edge to check out their offerings. I'm looking for a slim cut similar to the new standard but made with premium denim and hardware. What would you recommend from there (ii know the staff there will be able to help out as well but would like to get some recs from the forum). Also would like to consider kmw 1980 or the somet 003's, anywhere in sf that would carry those? Or am I just chasing the dragon? Thanks!
     


  2. steviecakes

    steviecakes Senior member

    Messages:
    400
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2009
    Location:
    lawnguyland
    reccomendations for denim repair in nyc? crotch blowout in my petit standards [​IMG]

    and thanks everyone who responded to my post regarding heavy denim. i also looked at all the brands blue in green and self edge has to offer. still seems like iron heart is what i'm looking for in terms of bot denim weight and a slim cut. if N&F only made the skinnyguy in extra heavy denim...
     


  3. connor

    connor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,634
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco


  4. Classically

    Classically Senior member

    Messages:
    208
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2008
    I just bought my first two pieces of denim. One was a Sugar Cane that was on sale and the other was Gilded Age. All I can say is: What the f*ck have I been wearing before last weekend?
     


  5. ranker

    ranker Senior member

    Messages:
    592
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2009
    I normally wear a 29 NS in indigo for my APC's. I just picked up a used pair of APC 30 NS in black. I noticed that the black is not selvaged unlike the indigos. Does this affect its stretch at all?

    The 29 NS is snug at my natural waist (where I usually wear my jeans) after being fully stretched for the past 2 months of use. However, the 30 NS in black is barely hanging onto my hips. How would I know if its been fully stretched or not (since I got it used)? What's the typical measurements for a 30NS unselvaged in black? pre stretch and fully stretched.

    I guess I'm wondering if I should just cut my losses and relist or if there's a way to salvage the situation and keep them wearable.
     


  6. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

    Messages:
    18,144
    Likes Received:
    175
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2006
    Location:
    Loretto, KY
    I've read that initially soaking sanfordized denim "opens the fibers" and makes them more susceptible to fading. On top of that there is also supposed to be some shrinkage despite the fact that they aren't unsanforized so i'm wondering if the creases/honeycombs would be more pronounced anyway due to the tighter fit...
    Not to get on your case but this is fairly standard of information on the internet, especially when it's a topic so niche that only a fraction of those involved can honestly give "expert" advice.

    Does soaking sanforized denim "open the fibers?" Maybe, maybe not. It honestly sounds like unvalidated hearsay and like most general advice is flawed: 1) it doesn't take into account sanforized jeans that are already one-washed and 2) it furthers the misconception of a magical recipe to fast-fading jeans.

    About the only argument even remotely valid that I've heard for giving non-washed sanforized jeans a soak is to attempt to get rid of that 3-5% shrinkage still left in the denim. Some people are bothered by this more than others. Personally, I don't see the point but don't see the harm, either.

    oic. i guess it's not that big of a deal, then? since wearing the jeans would stretch them out again?

    e: does soaking them make them stiffer?

    1) Yes.
    2) Temporarily.
     


  7. Asch

    Asch Senior member

    Messages:
    1,301
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2007
    You could try giving the 30 NS a hot soak, and then wearing it for a month to see whether it doesn't stretch quite so much on you (maybe the last owner had a bigger waist). But in general, if the 29 indigo fit you perfectly, a 29 in black should be your correct size.
     


  8. Asch

    Asch Senior member

    Messages:
    1,301
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2007
    About the only argument even remotely valid that I've heard for giving non-washed sanforized jeans a soak is to attempt to get rid of that 3-5% shrinkage still left in the denim. Some people are bothered by this more than others. Personally, I don't see the point but don't see the harm, either.
    I agree with whodini. I like to give even sanforized jeans a hot soak to get all the inseam shrinkage out of the way. Other than that, I see no meaningful effects either way.
     


  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Likes Received:
    650
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Which of the new GAP jeans models is closest in fit/style to APC New Standards?
     


  10. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

    Messages:
    2,127
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Location:
    I'm not angry, I'm from Philly
    Hi all, I'm looking for a slim cut similar to the new standard but made with premium denim and hardware. What would you recommend from there (ii know the staff there will be able to help out as well but would like to get some recs from the forum). Also would like to consider kmw 1980 or the somet 003's, anywhere in sf that would carry those? Or am I just chasing the dragon? Thanks!
    At SE, check out Flat Head. Their BSP model may fit your needs. Some of the best denim I've owned. Nowhere in California that I know of. BiG or Context, and Blue Owl for just the KMW
    Does soaking sanforized denim "open the fibers?" Maybe, maybe not. It honestly sounds like unvalidated hearsay and like most general advice is flawed: 1) it doesn't take into account sanforized jeans that are already one-washed and 2) it furthers the misconception of a magical recipe to fast-fading jeans.
    Agreed on the magic recipe for fast fading jeans. The major aspects of fast-fading are due to the dye-process. Wearing them is the only way. It can be argued that soaks will temporarily stiffen the denim more, causing a short period of accellerated fading. It's frequently commented on over at another site. Soaking, in my direct experience, can and usually does change the denim texture. More in STF, less so in sanforized. In slubbier denim, you'll see a pronounced increase in texture.
    It will open up the fibers and speed up fading, but you will also lose indigo all over and it "may" change the texture of the denim- for sure it will remove the raw sheen.
    I do find that the texture change is less pronounced in sanforized denim. The 'raw' sheen isn't always lost, imo, but that's subjective as to what you mean by 'raw sheen'. Not getting on your case, but the part about 'losing indigo' is really alarmist sounding, and part of what contributes to the constant misinformation around here. Any indigo that sheds off in a soak is already loose, surface indigo. And although the water may look really blue sometimes, it's only a small fraction of the surface dye on the fabric that's really in the water.
     


  11. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,773
    Likes Received:
    267
    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Location:
    EastXwesT
    with regards to soaking raw sanforized denim : other than doing away with the inherent shrinkage [tho it maybe minimal] still present in the denim and the removal of excess starch , you have to consider tempering of the fabric and the pure cotton thread [if it applies].

    imo, water is the open secret ingredience in improving the tensile strenght of cotton. water makes the yarn contract, which account for shrinkage__ the process makes the yarns thicker, the weave tighter, and denim thicker and heavier per square inch/yard/meter, etc. the constant wear & periodic soak cause the fabric to expand and contract repeatedly [but not as much as actually washing], releasing residual starch embedded in the yarn. as a result, the fabric softens up and become more pliant.

    bottomline : a single [initial] soak won't really do shiet. multiple soaking [before the 1st wash] promotes healthier denim.

    given a choice between durability & good loking jeans with high contrast__ i personally prefer taking a compromise so i can hold on to them longer.... since, good quality denim jeans are damn expensive and breaking them in takes valuable time. besides, high contrast is just a temporary [stage] anyway, they will eventually fade when washed regularly.
     


  12. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

    Messages:
    18,144
    Likes Received:
    175
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2006
    Location:
    Loretto, KY
    It can be argued that soaks will temporarily stiffen the denim more, causing a short period of accellerated fading. It's frequently commented on over at another site.
    -->
    Not to get on your case but this is fairly standard of information on the internet, especially when it's a topic so niche that only a fraction of those involved can honestly give "expert" advice.
     


  13. eseanyang

    eseanyang Senior member

    Messages:
    212
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    Hi guys i have a question i just got my iron heart 634s jeans and they fit very well EXCEPT for the waist which is like just a bit too small to button. When i say a bit i mean like roughly about an inch. Is there anyway to stretch them? Do you guys have any tips on initial care/washing? Thanks.
     


  14. connor

    connor Senior member

    Messages:
    1,634
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco
    they will stretch with wear. just keep goin
     


  15. Asch

    Asch Senior member

    Messages:
    1,301
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2007
    Iron Heart denim is stretchy, but if you currently can't button the waist at all, even with extreme effort, then I don't think they're ever going to be very comfortable for you, and at the least, the fly is going to end up badly distorted. Go one size up if you can get the top button an inch from closing.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by