I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. Monimus

    Monimus Senior member

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    Earnest Sewn has different lines, but they make some OK denim in the price range of ~$100. It's a bit heavier denim for the most part.
     
  2. Monimus

    Monimus Senior member

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    I just bought a pair of black silver selvedge diors. $200. Think that's about a reasonable price, eh?
     
  3. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    According to Zappos, in 32's, they measure:
    # 34" inseam.
    # 10" front rise.
    # 14" back rise.
    # 18" leg opening.

    Sounds like a low rise bootcut? 18" openings per size 32 are hard, but not impossible, to come by. It's far easier to find a straight fit or a relaxed fit. Take a look around affiliates linked at the top of the page and find a fit that looks similar to what you want. It'd also help to know your price range.

    I'm currently interested in buying some raw denim. I wear 32 waist and was considering getting a pair of Nudies slim jims. Would it be best to size up because I really don't like my junk squeezed. I prefer a skinny fit, but room to breathe would be nice.

    I plan on spending around $200ish. Any advice or alternative suggestions would be great. Thanks a bunch.

    If you wear a 32, stick to a 32. Some even size one down because they will stretch out. For $200, you could do better in terms of denim: Rogue Territory, EP by Epaulet, etc.
    What are people opinion on Earnest Sewn jeans? Are they good quality?
    They could still be good quality but I haven't seen anything since the founders left; originally, they were fairly well-respected for denim, more so for washes.
    I just bought a pair of black silver selvedge diors. $200. Think that's about a reasonable price, eh?
    New? Fake? Used?
     
  4. Ibrock

    Ibrock Senior member

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    Some Naked & Famous questions: What's the main difference in fit between the Skinny Guy and Weird Guy? Are the Slim Guy jeans too wide below the knee to get good stacking from (w/o puddling)? For those who have had these for a while, how do they hold up? Do they still look good vs. worn out after a while? What's the stretching like in terms of the thighs and waist?
    I believe the main difference between those two is that the skinnyguys are cut slim from top to bottom while the weirdguys are a little more relaxed in the thigh/seat but still retain the taper from the knee down. The slim guys have a true straight leg, so yeah they probably won't stack much. I have the weird guys in deep indigo and love the fit but from what I've heard it's a little hit and miss depending on your body type. I bought them in my true size (32) and have experienced very little stretching, I believe the general consensus is go TTS or only down by 1. FWIW I think they feel very durable.
     
  5. Monimus

    Monimus Senior member

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  6. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    I believe the main difference between those two is that the skinnyguys are cut slim from top to bottom while the weirdguys are a little more relaxed in the thigh/seat but still retain the taper from the knee down.

    The slim guys have a true straight leg, so yeah they probably won't stack much.

    I have the weird guys in deep indigo and love the fit but from what I've heard it's a little hit and miss depending on your body type. I bought them in my true size (32) and have experienced very little stretching, I believe the general consensus is go TTS or only down by 1.

    FWIW I think they feel very durable.


    Cool, thanks. I'll have to try them for myself, but I'm pretty optimistic about the Weird Guy fit, given your description. One of my favorite pairs of jeans is the Rag & Bone RB23 Jay, except I wish the rise were a bit higher. Those are listed as 9in, while the Weird Guy is listed at 10. If it's one inch difference, that should be just about right, while keeping the same general idea of less fitted thighs (mine are big) and more tapered/stackable lower leg.
     
  7. avery

    avery Senior member

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    Cool, thanks. I'll have to try them for myself, but I'm pretty optimistic about the Weird Guy fit, given your description. One of my favorite pairs of jeans is the Rag & Bone RB23 Jay, except I wish the rise were a bit higher. Those are listed as 9in, while the Weird Guy is listed at 10. If it's one inch difference, that should be just about right, while keeping the same general idea of less fitted thighs (mine are big) and more tapered/stackable lower leg.
    I have the weird guy and the RB23 so maybe i can help you out. i bought them both in size 32. the rag and bones stretched out nicely in the waist, and they're what i'd describe as a relaxed skinny jean. narrow throughout, with a small leg opening, but not skintight anywhere. i love the fit of them. the weird guys i also got in size 32. however they're the 21oz ones. for regular weird guys (normal weight, no these 21oz beasts), i could go with a 31 but the combination of very stiff denim+sizing down wouldn't have been too comfortable. the weird guys aren't loose in the waist, but not really hugging it either. because of this, it doesn't get stretched out much at all. weird guy is similar to rb23 from waist to knee, but the rb23 is slimmer from knee down, and especially at leg opening. edit: forgot to mention, the weird guy's rise is indeed a bit higher. i don't mind the rb23 low rise, but if that's important to you, weird guy is higher. hope that helps
     
  8. DGP

    DGP Senior member

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    I have the weird guy and the RB23 so maybe i can help you out. i bought them both in size 32. the rag and bones stretched out nicely in the waist, and they're what i'd describe as a relaxed skinny jean. narrow throughout, with a small leg opening, but not skintight anywhere. i love the fit of them.

    the weird guys i also got in size 32. however they're the 21oz ones. for regular weird guys (normal weight, no these 21oz beasts), i could go with a 31 but the combination of very stiff denim+sizing down wouldn't have been too comfortable. the weird guys aren't loose in the waist, but not really hugging it either. because of this, it doesn't get stretched out much at all. weird guy is similar to rb23 from waist to knee, but the rb23 is slimmer from knee down, and especially at leg opening.

    edit: forgot to mention, the weird guy's rise is indeed a bit higher. i don't mind the rb23 low rise, but if that's important to you, weird guy is higher.

    hope that helps


    Very helpful, thanks! I think what I'll end up with are the Weird Guy deep indigo. I wear a 32 in the RB23, and they're as big in the waist as I'd want, so probably going with the 31 in NFWG.
     
  9. ConcernedParent

    ConcernedParent Senior member

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    Simple answer: the indigo is better than that used on cheap jeans, why would it come off? They'll stay as dark as when dry.

    No, soaking is good for the denim, shrinks it, brings out the character of the weave, gets rid of bad excess starch, etc. Repeated washing over time will eventually fade any jeans, but that's not what we're talking about.

    The only benefit to extended wearing without washing is that it allows the jeans to develop higher-contrast fades. But that can still be achieved even if you wash the jeans monthly. Personally, I feel not washing for six months puts the denim at jeopardy of real damage. I've seen it. Dirt and starch are really abrasive over time. And body oils will promote decay of the cotton fibers.

    Soaking recs for new raw jeans: 1/2 hour soak, in tub with hot water, inside-out not necessary. Then hang and air dry.


    I personally think it depends on the jean.

    I see very little purpose in soaking a new pair of sanforized jeans (APC's for example). They don't shrink much when soaked (centimeters at most) and are starched heavily to get the creases going quick. The nice raw sheen of the denim is also gone when you soak.

    Soaking in other circumstances though, makes perfect sense. As sweat will seriously eat up fabric.
     
  10. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I personally think it depends on the jean. I see very little purpose in soaking a new pair of sanforized jeans (APC's for example). They don't shrink much when soaked (centimeters at most) and are starched heavily to get the creases going quick. The nice raw sheen of the denim is also gone when you soak. Soaking in other circumstances though, makes perfect sense. As sweat will seriously eat up fabric.
    2.5 centimeters is an inch. My APC shrunk enough to be noticeable. Starch has little to do with creasing, as some of the best creasing occurred on jeans I actually washed. Besides, the denim will be stiff after a soak, and only wearing them for an extended period (stiff or soft) really sets the creases. That 'sheen' will be gone in two weeks if it's from newness and starch, and it will stay after a soak if it's in the nature of the denim. All of my stf denim had good soaks and stayed 'sheen-y' after until they broke in. Why try and preserve an artificial condition that isn't representative of what the denim will look like for 99% of its life?
     
  11. IIIrd Icon

    IIIrd Icon Senior member

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    ^true dat!


    I personally think it depends on the jean.

    I see very little purpose in soaking a new pair of sanforized jeans (APC's for example). They don't shrink much when soaked (centimeters at most) and are starched heavily to get the creases going quick. The nice raw sheen of the denim is also gone when you soak.

    Soaking in other circumstances though, makes perfect sense. As sweat will seriously eat up fabric.

    that's why we see quite a few premature crotch blowouts and thread breakage. not saying all can be directly attributed to not soaking, but def a big factor.

    water is the open secret ingredient to a longer thread life. the cotton yarn tempered in water & free of starch have increased tensile strenght + more pliant than "dry".
     
  12. robbie

    robbie Pleading Poverty

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  13. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    They look the same but it's funny that the US site doesn't mention them as being STF.
     
  14. Whiskey

    Whiskey Senior member

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    I found these old pair of raw denim jeans but they have been washed a lot so they are pretty faded but not daddy style faded. They don't have any creases or honey combs. Do you think jeans that have washed a lot have any chance at getting some character?
     
  15. scb

    scb Senior member

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    left my samurais with the tailor yesterday to fix the hem (coming apart at the selvage seam). i hope he doesn't do anything stupid to them
     

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