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I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    I guess this is where I need some help. Although I'm a lean athletic guy, I've been told by my menswear tailor and by many a sales associate that I have more 'ass' than the typical asian male. I'm unsure of how to achieve the best fit. If I try to wear jeans hanging off my hip, then the crotch area appears to 'hang' too much to the point where I feel as if it interferes with my gait and I start developing the penguin gangsta waddle. That being said, I've tried to wear jeans at my natural waist maybe .5 to an inch lower than where I wear my slacks/pants. When I do that, my ass gets in the way to the point where the waistband does not touch my skin all the way around if you can understand what I mean. The waistband of the jeans would lift off my skin around the back (not the front), since my ass would push the fabric of the jeans out. It looks 'wrong' like that to me. I often would be forced to have a tailor take in that very part so that the entire waistband touches my skin. So, I guess the question is... have I been wearing jeans wrong? Do I need a different type of fit? Would a guy with my problem be better off with full rise? Medium rise? Low rise? btw, I appreciate all of the advice you've given so far. You've been supremely helpful with my education or re-education in jeans (something I had thought I had known all about through all of my college years).
    Get jeans with at least a low-mid rise, and if that doesn't work a mid-rise. A lot of people try to squeeze into low-rise jeans when they really shouldn't, it's not a good look to have the mancleavage going. Just don't go sizing up to try to accommodate rise issues since that will throw all the other measurements out of proportion (waist, leg, etc.) just go with what has the rise you need in a waist size that fits.
    Thanks again for all of the clarifying answers. I guess the last question is: After purchasing a dior 19cm's and APC's, do I engage in this "hot soak" in order to shrink it before I hem? Or is this entirely unnecessary and I'm better off estimating the .75" to 1" of shrinkage that would occur when I hand them off to my tailor? Also is this the correct gameplan for awesome fitting/looking raw jeans? 1) Size down appropriate amount to take in account for raw denim stretch and vanity sizing. 2) Hot soak upon purchase with warm (boiling?) water 3) Air dry 4) Have it original hemmed by tailor 5) Wear the shit out of the jeans to achieve the stretching needed 6) Avoid washing at all costs until the 'fades' set in 7) When you start forcing people to avoid coming within a 6 feet radium of you due to the smell, cold wash jeans and air dry Do I have it down right? Also, is there theory on how the fading works and how washing jeans interferes/helps? edit: What type of store would carry those BSP's, Samurai's, etc that you recommended that would be accessible in the SoCal area? Barneys Co-op?
    Both DH and APC are sanforized so in theory you don't have to soak them (although you still should, hot water from the tap). Sizing for DH is 2-3 down (2 vanity size and 1 stretch), APC is some weird formula I don't pay attention to. Wash them when you need to, don't let them get all funknasty or oily or whatever whatever. BSP = Self Edge. Samurai = Blue in Green. Both of those are the only US retailer with the brand.
     


  2. ranker

    ranker Senior member

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    Diors are meant to stack, so take care with the hemming.



    .


    Why is it that Dior's are meant for stacking? What is stacking technically? From the search, it appears as if you just let your jeans bunch up at the bottom? If I want my jeans to be stackable, does that mean I don't hem that at all? or do I hem them with a certain amount of extra length? Additionally, what is it about stacking that makes it "good" or 'look nice'

    Once again, thanks for answering the questions of a jean noob.
     


  3. Jakmat

    Jakmat Member

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    I have a pair of jeans that are 32 Regular. What leg length would they be, as they don't specify? I'm trying to work out as they fit really well, but I'm just wondering whether its the quality of the jeans and not the size.
     


  4. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Why is it that Dior's are meant for stacking? What is stacking technically? From the search, it appears as if you just let your jeans bunch up at the bottom? If I want my jeans to be stackable, does that mean I don't hem that at all? or do I hem them with a certain amount of extra length? Additionally, what is it about stacking that makes it "good" or 'look nice' Once again, thanks for answering the questions of a jean noob.
    You really did your research. I applaud that. Agreed on the washing recs, as well as the stacking. Hot soak and air dry to start, interim warm/hot soaks in the first half-year, wash when needed. Waiting to wash until after six months is worth a try, and interim soaks will keep the jeans clean-ish. Stacking is best on jeans with a slim-leg and smaller leg opening. It's a good look, but may not work as well with repro cuts or wider-leg 'straight' cuts. Inseam length is a personal preference depending on how much drape/break or stacking at the ankle you like, and also based on the cut of the jeans. I usually add 2" to my normal trouser length. This is not a rule. Rise will influence inseam decision too. Hemming raw jeans is expected (unlike off the rack Levis, raws come in one inseam length). Now, I almost always estimate and then have Blue in Green or Self Edge hem before I even receive or soak the jeans. (I fucked up a few times in the beginning before I finally figured out the inseam length I like best - so err on the longer side). Fading: washing jeans, like any clothes, expedites overall color-fading. Reducing the frequency of washes helps create more-pronounced, higher-contrast fades in the wear-areas. This is because the color isn't being washed out of the jeans all-over, but is being abraded off the jeans in the wear areas. Less frequent washes also preserve the darker color. It's as simple as that, so don't buy any other silly stuff being slung around regarding washes, special soaps, ocean washes, etc. Two examples which illustrate: Washed more often: [​IMG] Washed less often: [​IMG]
     


  5. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I have a pair of jeans that are 32 Regular. What leg length would they be, as they don't specify? I'm trying to work out as they fit really well, but I'm just wondering whether its the quality of the jeans and not the size.
    It's probably a combination of both, and my guess is the overall cut more than leg length. Inseam: Get a tailors tape or a tape measure. See last step in these instructions. Save this link. It's helpful: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...d=30&Itemid=41 Edit: record the dimensions of those jeans and use those as a benchmark for future fits.
     


  6. katinka

    katinka New Member

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    anyone happen to know which brand this is?

    [​IMG]

    thanks
     


  7. Jakmat

    Jakmat Member

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    It's probably a combination of both, and my guess is the overall cut more than leg length.

    Inseam: Get a tailors tape or a tape measure. See last step in these instructions. Save this link. It's helpful:

    http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...d=30&Itemid=41

    Edit: record the dimensions of those jeans and use those as a benchmark for future fits.


    problem is they claim to be 32's, but measure to be 34 waists, and measure to be 30 inch legs, but from experience i know 30 inch legs are too short on me.

    Guess they're just a lucky fit pair. I doubt I'l find a pair that fit as well on my legs as these. Ahh well.
     


  8. pronxs

    pronxs Senior member

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    anyone happen to know which brand this is?

    thanks


    ksubi
     


  9. reprehensible

    reprehensible Senior member

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    Why is it that Dior's are meant for stacking? What is stacking technically? From the search, it appears as if you just let your jeans bunch up at the bottom? If I want my jeans to be stackable, does that mean I don't hem that at all? or do I hem them with a certain amount of extra length? Additionally, what is it about stacking that makes it "good" or 'look nice'

    Once again, thanks for answering the questions of a jean noob.


    Stacking is, yes, when you have a long inseam on your jeans, and they bunch at the bottom. Usually the folds that result looks like stacks of denim. How much to hem (if you hem) is more or less a judgement call. There are degrees of stacking that look ridiculous (like a 37" inseam in a 5'2" dude), so there's a certain amount of eyeballing and guesswork involved.

    Diors are meant to be sagged with stacking only because that's the iconic fit. It is their particular niche. There's nothing stopping you from hiking them up on your waist and getting them hemmed with a small break, or something like that. It might even look OK. It's just not the intended look.

    Stacking looks good to the extent that you think it looks good, visually. It doesn't work for everybody, just like big cuffed repro jeans don't work for everybody. Probably there's something to be said about balancing out the fit of slim jeans and helping the transition to the shoes, or something like that.

    One thing to do is look at lots of pictures of people wearing jeans, and really think about what details of the picture/fit you like and dislike.
     


  10. korektphool

    korektphool Well-Known Member

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    Hi I'm a student and I need jeans on a budget. I live in London and would like to spend less than 35 pounds sterling.

    I want slim-fit (not skinny, not straight, but in between) medium-rise jeans in a dark colour, with no distressing or vintage-ing.

    Help?
     


  11. nahneun

    nahneun Uncle Nephew

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    Hi I'm a student and I need jeans on a budget. I live in London and would like to spend less than 35 pounds sterling.

    I want slim-fit (not skinny, not straight, but in between) medium-rise jeans in a dark colour, with no distressing or vintage-ing.

    Help?


    Levis
     


  12. Coldsnap

    Coldsnap Senior member

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    Anyone know an online store that has the W+H denim and measurements? I want to buy a black pair for myself for by Bday but I need to see what sizes have a leg opening of 7.5" or so.
     


  13. jarude

    jarude Senior member

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    I had W+H slims in 33 and 34 and both had hems of 7.5 iirc
     


  14. connor

    connor Senior member

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    aeglus that 5010 fit is on point
     


  15. katinka

    katinka New Member

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    ksubi


    ah, right. i know i was asking the right people. thanks again.
     


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