I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. ranker

    ranker Senior member

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    If this is the case the jeans do not fit you.

    Ok, I guess the whole "APC size down 2" is bunk advice then.
     


  2. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    This brings up another question. How does one prevent ones pork and beans from hurting so damn bad. I can barely wear it for an hour before it feel as if my pork and beans have been flattened. This may sound stupid but what is the best type of underwear to wear when breaking in raw denim? I keep giving myself wedgies no matter what I try, boxers, boxer briefs, trunks, and briefs.
    (Connor being helpful as I always enjoy...) Um, a few thoughts on your flat pork: 1. go commando and face the small chance of discomfort that way (which is really rare once you get used to wearing raws and start sizing properly). Don't go commando and deal with wedgie, or re-think boxer brief choice and size/cut of jeans. No raws should have an uncomfortable fit after the first few days. 2. analyze your 'rise' dimension (rise is the crotch-fit and may be too short (low) for how you currently wear your jeans). Note that I stress 'you' and 'currently' 3. Re-think how you wear your jeans. Start slouching or 'sagging' your jeans more. Jean 'rise' (crotch) discomfort and ass-fit (wedgies) are often determined by waist tightness causing your jeans to ride up. This should go away as waist stretches and as you try sagging your jeans more.
     


  3. connor

    connor Senior member

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    (Connor being helpful as I always enjoy...)


    he said pork and beans, i mean jeez
     


  4. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Ok, I guess the whole "APC size down 2" is bunk advice then.
    No, it's not. Jeans don't fit you. APC don't make a universally comfortable fit. If they did, they'd be Levis burlap sacks. I detest APC fits. And I gave them a chance...
     


  5. aeglus

    aeglus Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Lost enough weight through cutting to fit into my 5010s again. How's the fit after all these months?

    [​IMG]
     


  6. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Lost enough weight through cutting to fit into my 5010s again. How's the fit after all these months?

    [​IMG]


    Hardassed. ++
     


  7. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Good.
     


  8. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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  9. c00kz

    c00kz Senior member

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    They look too tight around the seat to me.. There's no drape in the back and just looks uncomfortable.
     


  10. dragonz

    dragonz Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] Newly purchased Iron Heart 301S, any comments? (besides needing them hemmed) aqhong - not ashamed, just figured I take another picture that my shirt didn't hang like that [​IMG]
     


  11. aqhong

    aqhong Senior member

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    ^ Aww, why'd you delete your pics? Don't be ashamed of some junk in the trunk.
     


  12. ranker

    ranker Senior member

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    (Connor being helpful as I always enjoy...)

    Um, a few thoughts on your flat pork:

    1. go commando and face the small chance of discomfort that way (which is really rare once you get used to wearing raws and start sizing properly). Don't go commando and deal with wedgie, or re-think boxer brief choice and size/cut of jeans. No raws should have an uncomfortable fit after the first few days.

    2. analyze your 'rise' dimension (rise is the crotch-fit and may be too short (low) for how you currently wear your jeans). Note that I stress 'you' and 'currently'

    3. Re-think how you wear your jeans. Start slouching or 'sagging' your jeans more. Jean 'rise' (crotch) discomfort and ass-fit (wedgies) are often determined by waist tightness causing your jeans to ride up. This should go away as waist stretches and as you try sagging your jeans more.



    I guess this is where I need some help. Although I'm a lean athletic guy, I've been told by my menswear tailor and by many a sales associate that I have more 'ass' than the typical asian male. I'm unsure of how to achieve the best fit. If I try to wear jeans hanging off my hip, then the crotch area appears to 'hang' too much to the point where I feel as if it interferes with my gait and I start developing the penguin gangsta waddle.

    That being said, I've tried to wear jeans at my natural waist maybe .5 to an inch lower than where I wear my slacks/pants. When I do that, my ass gets in the way to the point where the waistband does not touch my skin all the way around if you can understand what I mean. The waistband of the jeans would lift off my skin around the back (not the front), since my ass would push the fabric of the jeans out. It looks 'wrong' like that to me. I often would be forced to have a tailor take in that very part so that the entire waistband touches my skin.

    So, I guess the question is... have I been wearing jeans wrong? Do I need a different type of fit? Would a guy with my problem be better off with full rise? Medium rise? Low rise?

    btw, I appreciate all of the advice you've given so far. You've been supremely helpful with my education or re-education in jeans (something I had thought I had known all about through all of my college years).
     


  13. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    You were totally and perfectly clear. It's a common problem, and why + $200 jeans can be the solution. I don't have that exact problem, but it's definitely a cut and fit issue. You need a slim fit, medium to low rise jean but one with a roomy top-block. My Flat Head BSP models (and some other really great Jap. brands like Samurai and Pure Blue Japan) have a low-ish rise (abt. 9.5-10") yet a roomy top block (the whole hip, waist, crotch, pockets, ass area). And they're still flattering, slim-cut tapered jeans. Other cuts that often have this are by Kicking Mule Workshop, and many of the 'Vintage' or 'Repro' cuts hugely favored in Japan and available at Blue in Green and Self-Edge. These types of cut and fit I described allows for those with a wide pelvis or more defined behind to wear them low and slouchy, yet not have that gangsta look you're talking about. Cuts can be pretty subtle... Makes to avoid: Skull, Warehouse, APC, Momotaro. These have very snug, narrow-hip top-blocks. My suggestion: email or call BiG and SelfEdge and explain this exact problem and ask for direction to fits
     


  14. ranker

    ranker Senior member

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    You were totally and perfectly clear. It's a common problem, and why + $200 jeans can be the solution. I don't have that exact problem, but it's definitely a cut and fit issue. You need a slim fit, medium to low rise jean but one with a roomy top-block. My Flat Head BSP models (and some other really great Jap. brands like Samurai and Pure Blue Japan) have a low-ish rise (abt. 9.5-10") yet a roomy top block (the whole hip, waist, crotch, pockets, ass area). And they're still flattering, slim-cut tapered jeans. Other cuts that often have this are by Kicking Mule Workshop, and many of the 'Vintage' or 'Repro' cuts hugely favored in Japan and available at Blue in Green and Self-Edge. These types of cut and fit I described allows for those with a wide pelvis or more defined behind to wear them low and slouchy, yet not have that gangsta look you're talking about. Cuts can be pretty subtle... Makes to avoid: Skull, Warehouse, APC, Momotaro. These have very snug, narrow-hip top-blocks. My suggestion: email or call BiG and SelfEdge and explain this exact problem and ask for direction to fits
    Thanks again for all of the clarifying answers. I guess the last question is: After purchasing a dior 19cm's and APC's, do I engage in this "hot soak" in order to shrink it before I hem? Or is this entirely unnecessary and I'm better off estimating the .75" to 1" of shrinkage that would occur when I hand them off to my tailor? Also is this the correct gameplan for awesome fitting/looking raw jeans? 1) Size down appropriate amount to take in account for raw denim stretch and vanity sizing. 2) Hot soak upon purchase with warm (boiling?) water 3) Air dry 4) Have it original hemmed by tailor 5) Wear the shit out of the jeans to achieve the stretching needed 6) Avoid washing at all costs until the 'fades' set in 7) When you start forcing people to avoid coming within a 6 feet radium of you due to the smell, cold wash jeans and air dry Do I have it down right? Also, is there theory on how the fading works and how washing jeans interferes/helps? edit: What type of store would carry those BSP's, Samurai's, etc that you recommended that would be accessible in the SoCal area? Barneys Co-op?
     


  15. reprehensible

    reprehensible Senior member

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    After purchasing a dior 19cm's and APC's, do I engage in this "hot soak" in order to shrink it before I hem? Or is this entirely unnecessary and I'm better off estimating the .75" to 1" of shrinkage that would occur when I hand them off to my tailor? Also is this the correct gameplan for awesome fitting/looking raw jeans? 1) Size down appropriate amount to take in account for raw denim stretch and vanity sizing. 2) Hot soak upon purchase with warm (boiling?) water 3) Air dry 4) Have it original hemmed by tailor 5) Wear the shit out of the jeans to achieve the stretching needed 6) Avoid washing at all costs until the 'fades' set in 7) When you start forcing people to avoid coming within a 6 feet radium of you due to the smell, cold wash jeans and air dry Do I have it down right? Also, is there theory on how the fading works and how washing jeans interferes/helps?
    Don't freak out too much about the avoiding-washing thing. If you're every looking/sniffing skeptically at your jeans, thinking "is it OK to wash these yet?", the answer is: yes. Don't wear filthy pants, it's kind of gross. Unless you dig ditches or something for a living, you'll be able to wear them for quite a while before they're in need of a wash. Diors are meant to stack, so take care with the hemming.
    Self Edge and Blue In Green, as far as I know. So, New York and Northern California.
     


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