I have a jean...(The Ultimate Jean Thread For Beginners) - ask questions here.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by whodini, Jan 28, 2008.

  1. zzzzzard

    zzzzzard Active Member

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    The legs can be taken in on either the outseam (selvage) side or the inseam. Outseam is a very simple procedure and I've had a number of selvage jeans tapered this way. You're looking at about a $20 total cost. Inseam seam is slightly more complicated, but preserves the width of the selvage band.

    So, theoretically, I could turn a relaxed fit into one that is painted on?
     


  2. wwp

    wwp Member

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    Return them stat. The inseam is a chainstitch (pic 2), and if that loose thread breaks, that chainstitch will pull out and unravel like an anchor-line off a boat if the loose thread end is pulled on. It would cause me some worry for sure. it's a production error, so I don't think you should ask questions, just return them. Don't feel bad about it.

    These jeans are hand-sewn, so you will see small discrepancies like that from time to time. But that's not a good problem to have.


    Thanks for your help. Before I found this problem, I was also planning on getting them tapered a little. If I took it to a place like 45rpm in NYC to taper, would they be restitching that part of the inseam anyways, regardless of this issue? If so, I'd rather do that, since I got them for a good price and would be sad to let the otherwise good jeans go.
     


  3. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    So, theoretically, I could turn a relaxed fit into one that is painted on?
    You can only taper them, you can't alter the top block (thighs included) without taking the jeans apart and then basically recutting and reassembling them.
     


  4. zzzzzard

    zzzzzard Active Member

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    You can only taper them, you can't alter the top block (thighs included) without taking the jeans apart and then basically recutting and reassembling them.

    Damn it; the thighs are what give me the most trouble. Aside from gaining more weight, how can I slim the thighs on jeans that I have?
     


  5. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    Damn it; the thighs are what give me the most trouble. Aside from gaining more weight, how can I slim the thighs on jeans that I have?
    You can try to hot soak but if there's any tension on that area they'll stretch out again. If they're newish you can throw them up on B&S/ebay and see if you can recover some of your costs. Unfortunately, costly mistakes are one of the side-effects of the whole coming into your own style thing
     


  6. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Thank you for the tips everyone. I'm gonna see if I can track down some APCs to try on. I'll be able to swallow a higher cost if the fit is really right. I appreciate the help.
    I definitely suggest checking out the 'Non-APC sub-$200 jeans' thread. About 20 other awesome options out there.
    So, theoretically, I could turn a relaxed fit into one that is painted on?
    Theoretically
    anything can be altered if there's material to do so. But why modify and deconstruct a cut of jeans that drastically?
    Damn it; the thighs are what give me the most trouble. Aside from gaining more weight, how can I slim the thighs on jeans that I have?
    The thighs can be taken in just like the rest of the leg. KiAkira means the top block, the hip/waist/crotch/rear-end area, which you can see is 100x more complicated to alter.
    Thanks for your help. Before I found this problem, I was also planning on getting them tapered a little. If I took it to a place like 45rpm in NYC to taper, would they be restitching that part of the inseam anyways, regardless of this issue? If so, I'd rather do that, since I got them for a good price and would be sad to let the otherwise good jeans go.
    Definitely worth asking them if that stitch problem can be resolved when they alter the leg. They may suggest the simpler way of tapering on the outseam, in which case you still have the same problem...
     


  7. wwp

    wwp Member

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    Thanks, I'll give them a call tomorrow. Though, I was planning on asking them to do the inseam, even though it's more complicated, since I want to preserve the selvage.
     


  8. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    Thanks, I'll give them a call tomorrow. Though, I was planning on asking them to do the inseam, even though it's more complicated, since I want to preserve the selvage.
    They're jeans people there, so hopefully will 'get' it. I'd say it's worth doing it that way if there won't be a noticeable change in the stitching, and if it's not too expensive (also, that's where the natural taper in the leg cut is made anyway). Plus, if you cuff, a wide selvage band can be a bit of a dissapointment.
     


  9. ppllzz

    ppllzz Senior member

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    Well the elastane won't fade but the cotton will, they're probably not raw so they'd barely fade (as much as washed off the rack jeans would)

    what does this mean? do "non-raw" jeans undergo some special treatment to prevent fading? i assume this treatment can't be permanent and with enough washes itll wear off and ill just have raw jeans
     


  10. KitAkira

    KitAkira Wait! Wait! I gots an opinion!

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    what does this mean? do "non-raw" jeans undergo some special treatment to prevent fading? i assume this treatment can't be permanent and with enough washes itll wear off and ill just have raw jeans
    Yes, they get washed (generally with random chemicals) which removes a lot of the excess dye and basically gets as much fading out as is really going to happen, plus non-raw jeans are generally dyed with synthetic dyes (as in, not even synthetic indigo, just synthetic blue dyes) which are far more steadfast than indigo and designed not to fade. And the elastane won't fade because it's essentially colored plastic, the color won't rub off.
     


  11. spagnutty

    spagnutty Active Member

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    Thanks again for your answers Mlyngard, they were really helpful. I went around town trying on what I could find out of the brands you suggested.

    I did a poor job describing my problem. I like the 514 cut, but best I can tell, they're only sold in a 30x32, and I need 30x34+ or it's too short for me. Same story with jcrew's jeans. 501's I can get long enough, but they make my butt look big (hip flare to be specific).

    Out of what I could find, I did kinda like the gap 1969s but I'm not quite sure if I liked the straight or authentic fit more.

    I'll look over the the non-APC raw denim thread and do some more research. After reflecting on the matter, I realized that being able to try on a pair first is what's most important to me. I don't mind throwing down $200ish if I know it's something that looks good on me. But for now at least I just cant risk that much on ordering something I'm not 100% sure on.

    Hopefully I'll be able to find some stores where I can actually try on some better APC and non-APC options.
     


  12. jim_n

    jim_n Senior member

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    how much do samurai 21oz s5000vx shrink after a hot soak and stretch out after numerous wears? ty
     


  13. eseanyang

    eseanyang Senior member

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    LOOKING FOR jean that has tapered bottom, like around 7.5 inches or so with a thigh length of around 12 inches or so. I like most self edge brands but i cannot seem to find one that has straight leg with tapered bottom. Thanks for help
     


  14. ppllzz

    ppllzz Senior member

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    LOOKING FOR jean that has tapered bottom, like around 7.5 inches or so with a thigh length of around 12 inches or so. I like most self edge brands but i cannot seem to find one that has straight leg with tapered bottom. Thanks for help

    helmut lang is kinda like this
     


  15. mlyngard

    mlyngard Senior member

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    I did a poor job describing my problem. I like the 514 cut, but best I can tell, they're only sold in a 30x32, and I need 30x34+ After reflecting on the matter, I realized that being able to try on a pair first is what's most important to me. Hopefully I'll be able to find some stores where I can actually try on some better APC and non-APC options.
    Re: 30/34s: call the stores? I know Levis doesn't limit their sizing to 32 inseam on smaller waisted jeans. Least I'm pretty sure. But this sizing problem (like fits) is one of the many good reasons to get away from Levis and mall brands. Sizing and fits is where the higher price pays off on more expensive jeans. Where are you located? Forum members should be able to guide you to places to try on jeans. Blue in Green and SelfEdge have locations in Soho, SE also in San Francisco. Barneys Co-op is many places, etc, etc...
    LOOKING FOR jean that has tapered bottom, like around 7.5 inches or so with a thigh length of around 12 inches or so. I like most self edge brands but i cannot seem to find one that has straight leg with tapered bottom. Thanks for help
    Holy shit bro, there are tons of options out there that fit that description. That's generally my target fit also. In order to help more, I'd need to know: 1. What's your (realistic) price point. 2. Do you want raw? STF or sanforized? 3. What is your waist size (very important). And what's your target 'rise' dimension (high (11"+), medium (11-9.5"), low (9.5-8.5"). That's also very important for fit. Keep in mind many jeans will shrink 1/4" across in leg dimension when looking at sizing numbers. Note: You mean thigh 'width', right? "Length" is a non-dimension. Thigh fit is one of the least definitive dimensions to work with for many reasons, but specifically because that dimension is taken at different places by different shops. Blue in Green has a good measuring tutorial. It's generally accepted as the standard procedure, at least on here. Learn it! http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...d=30&Itemid=41
     


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